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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-08-2017, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
 
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Back in the 12's

Ever since my monster level 2 I've had a hard time with my 60's which has kept me out of the 12's for about 2 years. Mostly 13.0-13.2 with a vararam as my only motor mod.

I recently added a Pypes poor man catback. Apparently my car likes it because it picked up on the big end.

My last run, even with a not-so-good launch, 2.03 60' with a bit of wheel hop, it still ran a [email protected] 109.02 for the best pass of the night.


Videos of my 3 passes from the event last weekend:
(+1400DA, 80deg, crappy prep due to it being a street car event, should have used my drag bags)


Run 1: 4th Gen SS, Cam, Ported LS2 Heads, Fast 102, Full Bolt ons, 200 shot, 4:30 gears, drag radials.
my notes: Terrible burnout, even worse launch. Pedaled it 3 times thru the wheel hop still ran a [email protected] with a 2.14 60'. Made him run me down though


Run 2: 427ci custom cam'd full bolt-on GTO, nitto 555's
my notes:Good burnout, decent launch. [email protected] with 2.003 60', .02 RT.


Run 3: 427ci GTO run 2
my notes:Needed a little longer on the burnout, Crappy launch. [email protected] with 2.03 60'. Jumped... Car rolled forward while I was on the clutch effectively deep staging me. (excuses excuses...)


Can't wait to see what she does with a set of LT's, ported intake and tune.

2006 GTO M6

Motor - Stock with Vararam
Bunch of suspension
Bunch of brakes
Stock tune

365/368 std
12.81 @ 110.6 2.03 60'
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-09-2017, 10:03 PM
 
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Really good ETs. Were you running pump gas?
Any weight saving mods? Hard to tell....what rpm are you launching from?
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shake-N-Bake View Post
Really good ETs. Were you running pump gas?
Any weight saving mods? Hard to tell....what rpm are you launching from?
Thanks man. Yep shell 93 octane. No weight mods... just stock weight with spare tire removed.

For the launches, according to the data logger:
Run1 - 5300rpm
Run2 - 4700rpm
Run3 - 5700rpm

2006 GTO M6

Motor - Stock with Vararam
Bunch of suspension
Bunch of brakes
Stock tune

365/368 std
12.81 @ 110.6 2.03 60'
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 12:14 PM
 
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Okay thanks. I need to practice my technique and see if I can get better launches.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
 
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What kind of tires and what clutch do you have? Those make a big difference on how you're able to launch the car

2006 GTO M6

Motor - Stock with Vararam
Bunch of suspension
Bunch of brakes
Stock tune

365/368 std
12.81 @ 110.6 2.03 60'
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 06:13 PM
 
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I just have the original factory clutch and street tires Pirelli P Zero in factory 235/40ZR18 size. If I leave traction control on then the engine bogs down quite a bit. I can get better launches with TC turned off but anything over 2500-2700 RPM at launch results in bad wheel hop/spin. I don't dump the clutch...I just let the clutch bite and mash the accelerator while I finish letting out the clutch. That seems to work the best for me. Drag radials would surely hook up way better but I haven't tried anything like that yet.

When I drive in a "spirited" way...I can smell the clutch so I try not to punish it too hard. I am an older guy (just turned 50) so my street racing days are in the rear view mirror but every once in a while someone comes along for a friendly contest. If the conditions seem safe, we give it a go. I "met" a new Lexus RC F this morning. He caught me off guard and I wasn't quite ready to have fun. I saw the F badge on the fender while sitting at the stop light but I don't know anything about the newer cars so I had no clue he wanted to play. By the time I figured it out, it was too late. I got a good look at the Lexus emblem on the trunk as he pulled away.

In my youth, I used to take my 76 Trans Am to the strip and bracket race. Dial in was low 13s to start but I eventually got the car to run consistent 12.5s times so I know the pain of chasing tenths. Can be an expensive habit.

I see a new/better clutch in my future. If I decide to go to the track then it sounds like a set of slicks would be beneficial. If I go that far....then some weight savings would likely accompany the plan. Thinking about running two spare tires up front.....has anyone tried that and does it help any?

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2017, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
 
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Awesome glad to see ya still out there ripping it!

First things first, traction control always off, no matter what and twice on sunday. It's not real traction control like the fancy bmw's and porshe's. It just kills a bunch of timing when it senses the rear tires are moving faster than the front. Not too mention if you you're really banging the gears and happen the spin the tire for a sec it will kill timing and you'll nose over and lose momentum. Use your right foot for traction

Launching these cars on street tires is a tricky ordeal. But it's actually easier to launch with the stock clutch than a stage 2 or 3 single disc after market clutches. The reason is you can really slip it and keep the rpm up without blowing the tires off. It's a fine balance but you can do it. Once I got my Monster stage 2 clutch i had to launch at a higher rpm because it doesn't want to slip. It starts to grab and just clamps down and goes. That's why I switched to drage radials.

Here's a couple pointers for street tires and stock clutch.

Before you head to the track, change your clutch fluid. Get a turkey baster and suck the old stuff out of the resevoir. Wipe the inside with a cloth. Fill it up with new DOT 4 brake fluid. Pump the clutch 50-100times to ensure any air is pumped out. Do it again. If the fluid is still dirty do it again. You want the absolute cleanest fluid if you're going to be beating on your stock clutch.

Take the spare, jack, ect out of the trunk, remove the heavy skid plate, and you can easily pop the back seat out. GTO spare's as front runner's is a cheap way to pick up a tenth. With more power it would gain more.

Let the car cool down before running. The stock computer tune pulls a bunch of timing as Ambient Intake Temps rise from heat soak. You could be in line idiling with the a/c on, get to the front to run and you're iat's are 140deg. Stock computer pulls 9degrees of timing and you wonder why you ran a 14 lol.

Lower your rear tire pressure down to 28psi.

Go around the water and just do a quick first gear burnout, say pop the clutch at 3/4K hammer down for a sec and let off. You just want to knock the dirt off the tires. If you do a big john force burnout on your steel belted radial street tire they will become greasy and spin easier.

I like to get up to the line first. This give me more time to get my feet right. I light one bulb and slowly roll into the next and really stab the brake hard to set the car. Then left foot on clutch. Right foot on gas to about 2700-3000rpm. Then pull your left foot up just enough until you feel the car about to move. You want to be right at the cusp of the threshold area of the clutch. As the third light turns on slowly pull your foot up into the threshold area. Don't just dump it. As soon as the car starts to move push the gas the rest of the way to the floor. This will cause the clutch to slip and keep you high enough in the RPM from bogging but is also soft enough on the initial hit not to blow your street tires off. The rate at which you release the clutch the rest of the away is dependent on traction.

The last thing I do to get my times down low with stock power is no-lift shift. If you don't feel comfortable with that just make sure you're shifting at 6400 and as fast as you can do it. These gear boxes are fantastic even in stock form. They can handle speed shifting and no-lift shifting as long as you can do it cleanly.

Here's some examples.

This was the weekend after I bought it. Bone stock down to the paper air filter and stock 17" tires. Nice slip of the clutch and I'm away, power shifting to a 13.0 @ 109





Here's another run bone stock on street tires. 13.2 Watch when I pull up to the line you'll see me balance the clutch to the engagement point. When I launch you can see what I was talking about as I lift the clutch into the threshold while giving it the beans as the clutch comes the rest of the way up. It all happens really quick. This is with no power shifting. Just normal quick/speed shifting.







One more on street tires and stock clutch but with a vararam cold air intake. 13.0





Hope some of that helps. Really what helped me was seat time. Just getting out there and practicing.

What times are you running now?

2006 GTO M6

Motor - Stock with Vararam
Bunch of suspension
Bunch of brakes
Stock tune

365/368 std
12.81 @ 110.6 2.03 60'
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2017, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
 
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Oh and forgot to say forgive me if you already know some or all of that stuff. These are just the tricks I've learned since i've had the car

2006 GTO M6

Motor - Stock with Vararam
Bunch of suspension
Bunch of brakes
Stock tune

365/368 std
12.81 @ 110.6 2.03 60'
GTO44 is offline  
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2017, 10:52 AM
 
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Excellent. Thanks for the pointers. Agree on the TC....it kills the power when the tires break loose during shifting so I learned that right away. I didn't think to change clutch fluid so I will give that a try. Also like the idea to stab the brakes hard at the line to set the car. Haven't been to the strip yet but so far it feels like a low to mid 13 second car.....however, the weather has finally cooled down and I can tell the engine is making a lot more power with the cooler temps. Feels like air intake temp has a big effect on the engine calibration so it is good to hear you validate that. My launch technique is pretty close to what you describe so that is good to know I was close.
Thanks a ton!
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-12-2017, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
 
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No problem man! And yeah the LS motors definitely like the cold air. My fastest time ever was a 12.81 with the stock clutch and street tires. But it was because it was like 55-60deg with a DA of +700. My car really liked that lol.

I will say it's kind of a conundrum. It likes cold IAT's but I found out on the dyno my car likes it when the engine is all the way hot. It did 358hp on the dyno after arriving and letting the car cool all the way down. Then 362hp 10 minutes later. Then ran it right away on the third pass with no cool down to simulate hot lapping it... it did 365hp/368tq.

I used to run a 160deg thermostat. I've since changed back to a stock 187deg thermostat so the engine runs warmer.

But the problem is the warmer i get the motor the warmer the IAT's get, unless it's a cool night.

You can get an IAT break out cable with a Fast Acting Thermistor to help that though. The new thermistor reacts to change much quicker, so if you're at the track, as soon as you get off the line it will register the cool air coming in and instantly change the IAT reading. Right now my factory thermistor doesn't register a change in IAT until the end of the run, and by that time it's too late and has pulled timing the whole run.

A custom tune can change the tables where it's pulling though. A tuner can make it so it doesn't pull any timing until 140-150deg.

Since I don't have a tune, I use a $12 OBD2 scanner connected to my phone via wifi to monitor IAT's. If I'm in "Mexico" with buddies and my IAT's are too hot before a run, I'll get up on the interstate for a minute and cruise at 65 until they come down to at least 110. The stock IAT table starts pulling timing 87deg. If I'm at 130-140 I know I'm going to be down a good amount of power.

Info reference:
Fast Acting Thermistor: https://www.bohnmancustoms.com/Fast_..._13914560.aspx
IAT Breakout Cable: https://www.amazon.com/Caspers-Elect.../dp/B000IMK12M
OBD2 Scanner for Iphone & Android: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1V9DC6...vert-amazon-20

2006 GTO M6

Motor - Stock with Vararam
Bunch of suspension
Bunch of brakes
Stock tune

365/368 std
12.81 @ 110.6 2.03 60'
GTO44 is offline  
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