Question about warming up drag radials - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-13-2010, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question about warming up drag radials

The GTO is the first RWD car I have owned. I had a GTP before this and did pretty well when it came to warming tires up and launching. My question is how do I hold the GTO in place at the track to stay in the water box to properly warm the drag radials. Also how long of a burn out is optimal for warming them up? I have 275 nitto 555's what pressure do you guys run at the track.

Thanks
Nick
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 12:10 AM
 
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I avoid the box and just spin'em enough to clean'em off. Every car/driver likes a different pressure. Mine likes 18-20.

<-- Guess which ones quicker?.....Nope! Not even close.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 07:27 AM
 
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Put a line lock on it, that's a solenoid that locks the front brakes on so you can do a burn out without hurting the back brakes. You can just hold the brakes on and burn em, but that hurts the rear brakes. In my Vette I just light em up and let it walk out of the water box, but I'm not on DR's.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 09:14 AM
 
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I avoid the box... but thats with street tires.

2003 Corvette Z06 - MGW shifter, Corsa X pipe, Corsa Xtreme exhaust, Texas Speed long tubes w/o cats, PowerStop rotors/pads, Conti DWS tires, C6Z51 F&R sways, C5R headlights, tuned

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 09:47 AM
 
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I do things a bit different depending on A4 or M6.

Tire pressures.

I walk the track and feel the prep on it before racing starts. If it isn't very good prep I lower the pressure to 20-22 on DR's. If it's good prep I keep the pressure around 24. I play with it too, lowering it and seeing what happens and raising it nd seeing what happens. That is the same for A4 or M6, the rest is different.


M6

Drive around the box and back into it.

Get your tires wet in the box and pull a foot forward where it's still wet but you aren't in the box.

Put it in second with the T/C off and take it up to 3500 or so and come off the clutch and put your foot on the brakes. As mentioned this is hard on your back brakes, but typically they last forever anyhow.

Let the car spin for at least 2 seconds at around 3500 rpms or so and then slowly ease off the brakes keep your foot steady on the throttle. The rpms will start to drop then it will hook and you hit the clutch.

You need at least 2 seconds of spin to get any heat into the tires and some guys put 3-5 seconds as the right amount of time. Play with it. Different driving techniques like different things.

A4

Pull around the box and back in.

Get the tires wet and pull a foot out of the box.

Put one foot on the brake and one on the gas. Ease the throttle till the tires spin. start out slow and ease the throttle down to make it spin faster till you have about 3 seconds of spining.

Ease up on the brakes and on the gas till it hooks up, then stop the car.

DR's like to have heat in them from what I found. If you just do a clean off spin with DR's you will never use their full potential.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2010, 09:39 AM
 
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All the videos I've seen, guys sit and spin them, like Fergyflyer mentioned, but usually the guys who hook the best get them smoking for a while then let off the brake. If done right they should grab as soon as you're off the brake. Nothing says you can't do another burnout.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2010, 09:47 AM
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A huge burnout only waists the tires. You only need to get some heat in them to make them sticky.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-18-2010, 11:57 PM
 
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I subscribed to this thread as well to learn more about this.

You guys should disclose your 60fts to give reference points and support your techniques.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fergyflyer View Post
I do things a bit different depending on A4 or M6.

Tire pressures.

I walk the track and feel the prep on it before racing starts. If it isn't very good prep I lower the pressure to 20-22 on DR's. If it's good prep I keep the pressure around 24. I play with it too, lowering it and seeing what happens and raising it nd seeing what happens. That is the same for A4 or M6, the rest is different.


M6

Drive around the box and back into it.

Get your tires wet in the box and pull a foot forward where it's still wet but you aren't in the box.

Put it in second with the T/C off and take it up to 3500 or so and come off the clutch and put your foot on the brakes. As mentioned this is hard on your back brakes, but typically they last forever anyhow.

Let the car spin for at least 2 seconds at around 3500 rpms or so and then slowly ease off the brakes keep your foot steady on the throttle. The rpms will start to drop then it will hook and you hit the clutch.

You need at least 2 seconds of spin to get any heat into the tires and some guys put 3-5 seconds as the right amount of time. Play with it. Different driving techniques like different things.

A4

Pull around the box and back in.

Get the tires wet and pull a foot out of the box.

Put one foot on the brake and one on the gas. Ease the throttle till the tires spin. start out slow and ease the throttle down to make it spin faster till you have about 3 seconds of spining.

Ease up on the brakes and on the gas till it hooks up, then stop the car.

DR's like to have heat in them from what I found. If you just do a clean off spin with DR's you will never use their full potential.
No wonder you have a hard time with the driver mod and prep excuses that I've offered.

At Sears Point, backing into the water box is forbidden and walking the track is absolutely unheard of.

Also, "we" only get 3 runs before going to brackets. That is over a 2 hour period and a 300 car count.

Most guys lower the tire pressure on their 20" non-DR street tires well below 30psi with disasterous results not knowing any better.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2010, 07:50 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuuuce View Post
At Sears Point, backing into the water box is forbidden and walking the track is absolutely unheard of.

.
Really? Backing into the water box is common around here. Usally you can tell the track prep by watching other folks walk on the track and how other cars respond out the hole.



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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2010, 12:20 PM
 
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My 60 foot's with the above techniques.

01-02 F-Body with 245 width street tires 1.98-2.05
01-02 F-Body with 255 width DR's 1.84-1.91

02-03 C5 Z06 285 width street tires 1.88-1.95
02-03 C5 Z06 with 305 width ET streets 1.61 is my best. Usually 1.67-1.71

05-06 C6 with runflat street tires 1.98-2.08. I think they were 275 or 285 width.

I never had the GTO on DR's. On the stock street tires it was a high 1.9 to low 2.0. I think my best was a 1.96.

You have to be at least a half hour early to walk the track. I usually take a group with me that are new and give them tips and a walk through. The tracks usually tell people to come and see me when I'm there, if the person is new to drag racing, for a walk through of what they should and shouldn't do. I make it a habit to walk the track each time I'm there and get myself into the proper mental frame of mind.

As with any sport, the mental part of drag racing is the key to success.
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