Front coil springs vs. spring compressor-HELP!!! - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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Front coil springs vs. spring compressor-HELP!!!

I'm jumping out of my last thread to get help on compressing the springs. I finally found a spring compressor that would fit into the shock hole in the bottom of the lower control arm. However, no matter what I do I can't get the bottom compressor arms into the spring. I can get one arm under a coil, but the other side of the arm is too long to get into the other side of the spring. Has anyone had this problem? I fiddled with the infernal thing for four hours and it just doesn't seem physically possible to wrap all the arms around the springs.

Please help!!!
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 11:28 PM
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You don't need to get the arms on the whole spring just the center section is enough.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 11:56 PM
 
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This is the kind I use. Borrow it from AutoZone. Check my restoration thread and I have photos showing how to use it. Works great.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/o...CABEgKIc_D_BwE
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 12:03 AM
 
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See post #59
https://www.gtoforum.com/f83/restori...21/index6.html
Be safe. Hope this helps.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
 
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Goat Roper: The problem is I can't get the both of the lower compressor arms into the spring anywhere.

Shake: I rented the same thing from Auto Zone, but I couldn't get the square block, that holds the arms, through the lower shock hole.

I was able to get the top arms (end with the threaded block) of the the new, smaller compressor (looks like the one in the OPGI catalog, with the sloped shoulders instead of square block from everywhere else) on each side of the spring, but I couldn't get but one of the arms through the spring on the bottom part (no threaded block). I tried to compress with just one of the lower arms engaged on the spring, but the the whole compressor was cocked in the space so that the end of the screw shaft would't go through the upper shock mounting hole, making the shaft "bottom out" under the upper control arm.

I also tried sticking the compressor shaft down through the upper arm shock hole and catching the threaded part of the compressor arms, but could only get one arm of attached to one side of the spring. I was able to compress the spring and drop lower control arm down, but not enough to free the spring. Then, I thought about the problem I would have if I compressed he spring even more, to free the lower control arm. How would I release the spring from the upper control arm without shooting the spring when I loosened the compressor.

As I laid awake all night thinking about the problem, I came up with this: Perhaps the reason I can't get both lower compressor arms attached to the spring is because of after 50 years of compression the spring had sagged so much that I can't get the arm in. I'm going to try using a crow-bar to open the distance a little between two coils to get the arm in-between. I have to take the upper and lower control arms out because the ball joints are trashed from beating the heck out of them to get them loose. Took a pile fork and a 30 lbs sledge hammer for them to finally break loose! This has been beating me for two days now. The videos make it look so simple!
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 01:55 PM
 
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Just rebuilt the front suspension on my 67', used this "https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7768038" worked great, folds in through the hole. Buy or rent from NAPA.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 04:19 PM
 
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I had the same problem with my '55. The square block fit through the hole in one control arm but not the other. I used an angle grinder to enlarge the hole so it would fit. Removed just a little bit of material.

The block easily fit the control arms of my 68 so I presume not all control arms had the exact same size holes.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 04:33 PM
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I've always done mine without using a compressor. Get the car on a lift, let the lower arm hang, clock the spring into the frame pocket correctly, and with a floor jack under the lower ball joint, slowly raise the jack to raise the arm to bring the lower ball joint stud into the knuckle. You can also just put a good jackstand or solid block of wood under the lower control arm and lower the car on the rack, doing the same thing (compressing the spring). DO NOT stand in-line with the spring when doing this. I haven't had to use a spring compressor in years on an A-body.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 04:51 PM
 
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Use GeeTees method, so much easier letting the hydraulics do the work for you. Safety first, stay back and out of the line of fire. Also works in reverse for removal, i wrap a cable and lock to the spring and frame just in case they want to "jump" out.

Remember as a teen helping a friends dad work on his 64' Biscayne and he shot one right through the garage wall sheathing. Gave me a healthy dose of respect for compressed steel.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 06:30 PM
 
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Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by geeteeohguy View Post
I've always done mine without using a compressor. Get the car on a lift, let the lower arm hang, clock the spring into the frame pocket correctly, and with a floor jack under the lower ball joint, slowly raise the jack to raise the arm to bring the lower ball joint stud into the knuckle. You can also just put a good jackstand or solid block of wood under the lower control arm and lower the car on the rack, doing the same thing (compressing the spring). DO NOT stand in-line with the spring when doing this. I haven't had to use a spring compressor in years on an A-body.


THIS ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

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