1968 GTO valve ticking - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
 
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1968 GTO valve ticking

Hello Jim and Bear: :-)

Well, we pulled the valve cover's and my new old mechnic looked at the rocker arms and the push rods. He tighted down the rocker nut to 20 Ft. Pound's. Ticking still very weak. Meaning not as much noise. I wonder if we replaced the rocker arm and push rods will this help. The mechanic did really do a expection of the push rods. He said, this engine was rebuild at some time. He believes the cam is getting worn. He said alot of stuff which I did not know?????
Just wondering if we changed out the rocker's and push rods will this stop the ticking noise?????
Happy Holiday's boys: Bobby :-)
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 02:35 PM
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Just wondering if we changed out the rocker's and push rods will this stop the ticking noise?????
It's impossible to say for sure, not knowing what else may be going on with your engine. Before you start throwing money at parts, I'd say change the oil, filter, and give it some time to see if it settles down.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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1968 gto valves ticking

Hello Bear: Great Idea. We did change the oil wt. Went from a 10w30 to a 20w50 new filter. My mechanic is very one step at a time. Do the simple things first. I mention the new rockers and pushrods, because it is cheaper than doing a rebuild. I like trying the simple things first, but I don't know all the simple things. He mention something about "blow down". Got know idea what that is. The ticking sound went down. We had 3 rocker's loose. We tightened them down to the 20 ft lbs. He mentioned that the engine was rebuild some time ago. I must appoligize that I don't remember a lot what he said. I think I saw a new rocker kit for $176.00 on ebay???????? Does that sound right?????
Another mechanic I know said, to put a quart of Miracle oil in the engine?????? I have not done that.... When the engine get's over 1,000 rpm's you don't hear the tapping of the lifter's. He said, if they where bad you would hear them louder at the high rpm's? I'm ready for the rebuild some time down the road???
The car has the matching number's so I'll just keep the engine stock. You guy's have been great. Keep giving me Idea's. The engine isn't ready to blow up yet. New old mechanic #4 seems to know his stuff. You should see his Drag car. WOW... Merry Christmas, Bob :-)
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 07:58 PM
 
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Since the engine was believed to have been rebuilt in the past, it is possible that the pushrod length was needing to be adjusted and they could have thrown in the ones that were originally in the engine and may be a little short. So when you torque the rocker arms nuts to 20Ft pounds, they stop on the bottle neck rocker arm stud as they should, and will not drop down any further so the rockers will not take up any play if there is any.

My next suggestion if you wanted to try this, is to make your rocker arms "adjustable." Simple enough to do this and if you have found a good mechanic, he will know what to do.

Your heads should have screw-in rocker arm studs. Replace them with Big Block 7/16" ARP Rocker Arm studs. Here is a set from Summit Racing: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...7101/overview/

My 1968 Service Manual says to tighten the screw-in rocker studs to 50 Ft pounds.

You will NOT use the factory rocker arm nuts as they are too small in diameter (3/8" for the factory studs) and they will not tighten down because there is no shoulder (bottle neck) like the factory stud.

You will need a set of these Polylocks: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...6-16/overview/

Your mechanic should then adjust each lifter/rocker arm to "zero lash." Best to do with engine warm and running. May get a little messy, but this is the best way to adjust. Adjust 1 side at a time.

Put the polylock on all the rocker arms and tighten down so there is little to no play between the rocker arm and pushrod so the engine will run as normal. I would lightly snug down the allen screw, but not too tight, as the mechanic will have to adjust the polylocks once the engine is running.

With engine warm and running, back off of the polylock until rocker arm starts "clicking," then stop. Then begin to slowly tighten the polylock down until "clicking" stops. Wait about 20 seconds for the lifter to bleed down/normalize. If it begins to click again, tighten a little more until it stops. Repeat if necessary until the "clicking" completely stops.

Once the clicking stops, turn the polylock 1/4 turn more and lock it down with the allen screw - holding the polylock with a box wrench and tighten the allen screw. Don't over tighten the allen screw, but it has to be tight enough so the polylock won't back off. Your valves are now set for "zero lash."

Do this for each rocker arm. If the rocker arm/pushrod/lifter has any play in it, this should remove it AND your valve ticking should also go away.

You should not have any clearance issues between the valve cover and top of the polylock. If for some reason you do, you can buy thicker valve cover gaskets or double them up. Polylocks can be short or long in length depending on engine/rocker stud type and application. These should be the shorter ones and work on your engine.

And, if you should have to rebuild the engine somewhere down the line, these can still be used on the new build as well, so not a loss if you invest in the studs & polylocks.

This procedure should be no problem if your mechanic knows what he is doing.

Also, you posted in the wrong section. We are not the 2004-2006 GTO guys.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
 
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1968 gto valves ticking

Hello Jim: Again you came through. Sounds like a simple thing to do. This will be the first thing to do for the ticking. GREAT....

You are the best Jim, wishing all the GTO crew a Merry Christmas...
Tks, Bobby :-)

When done I'll post a after lifter job done, and what happened to the engine....
This will be good for all the GTO owner's with ticking lifter's....
BYE
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-06-2018, 02:49 AM
 
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I've had this problem and what fixed it for me was putting in proper Pontiac lifters. The builder who first rebuilt my engine used chevy lifters and the oil holes are not in proper location for Pontiac motors, as a result they can bleed down and give you valve train clatter.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-07-2018, 10:44 AM
 
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I had the same problem with a '69 400. I kept torquing the nuts down, but it gradually came back every time. I even tried the Chevy-style lock nuts with the set screw in the side of them, to no avail. At some point, I noticed the valves would float at 4,000+ RPM, so I went ahead and did a re-build. The culprit: 3 lobes on the cam looked like a broom stick.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-08-2018, 12:22 PM
 
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Hello Jim and Bear: :-)

Well, we pulled the valve cover's and my new old mechnic looked at the rocker arms and the push rods. He tighted down the rocker nut to 20 Ft. Pound's. Ticking still very weak. Meaning not as much noise. I wonder if we replaced the rocker arm and push rods will this help. The mechanic did really do a expection of the push rods. He said, this engine was rebuild at some time. He believes the cam is getting worn. He said alot of stuff which I did not know?????
Just wondering if we changed out the rocker's and push rods will this stop the ticking noise?????
Happy Holiday's boys: Bobby :-)
I have the same issue, its 67 GTO engine, replaced the cam lifters comp cams roller tip rockers with poly locks.. still slight ticking.. wondering if its a noisy valve, its coming from the same area. when I get a chance I will check for a broken valve spring as well..

Last edited by 1966tempest; 12-08-2018 at 12:44 PM.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-08-2018, 02:55 PM
 
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I have the same issue, its 67 GTO engine, replaced the cam lifters comp cams roller tip rockers with poly locks.. still slight ticking.. wondering if its a noisy valve, its coming from the same area. when I get a chance I will check for a broken valve spring as well..
Keep in mind that there are many complaints of the Comp Cams XE line of cams/lifters seem to have a ticking noise due to the fast ramp closing of the valve. If you do a search, you will see this mentioned on almost every car forum where the XE cam has been used. I had the XE274 in my previous 400CI build and didn't seem to hear anything excessive. I used matching springs from Comp as well, so you may want to make sure you have new springs and not older springs which might not have the correct seat and open pressures.

On Pontiacs you have to know what the installed height is so you can adjust the seat pressure. An engine build shop can test all the springs to ensure they meet the needed spring pressures for a given cam or cam swap. Factory Pontiac cam springs will most likely be to weak and not meet the required closed/open pressures needed for the higher lift & aggressive ramps of an XE cam - or any other cam having a higher lift than the factory .406" lift. I read that the stock springs are good to around .460", but with use/age, no doubt they become weaker. So I would at a minimum have them tested to make sure they will work with any replacement cam.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-08-2018, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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1968 GTO valve ticking

Hello 67 GTO, Jim and Bear: We are going to replace the pushrods, rockers,studs and put on some poly nuts. This week... Just going to do the whole thing, and see what happens. I got nothing else to do... This is going to be fun. I'll me number 2 mechanic.LOL LOL I'm curious to see what affect it will have on the engine. If it still is making noise a re-build will be in the furture. Hope it's just the pushrods are getting shorter which makes the rockers I believe loose???????? Curious minds would like to know????????

You all have a great Christmas, and I'll get back to you all.
Bobby :-) HO HO HO
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