400 Clean up and check - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-06-2018, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
 
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400 Clean up and check

Hey all,

My engine has been built for at least 20 years now as that is when I got the car. We put a cam, lifters, springs, and timing chain in it shortly after that but that is as deep as I have been into it. I have a LOT of clean up I want to do to the engine as she is not as pretty as she once was so I am going to pull it out. There are also some oil leaks that I want to get all straightened out and do some inspection.

The engine is:
1969 YS block
62 Heads
292 comp cam
HEI ignition
Recently rebuilt quadrajet (using Cliff's book)
Performer RPM intake
Hooker headers
Saginaw 4 speed

Runs pretty strong.

I know some will probably say this is dumb but I want to tear it down most of the way (short of removing the crank and cam) to inspect everything while I have the engine pulled out. I am also going to put on some roller rockers that I have had for a while (stock ratio) and am considering installing a DUI distributor.

So after all of that, here is why I am posting. I really want to make sure I go with the best gasket set for everything from oil pan to valve covers. Any recommendations? Also, other than just inspecting the engine, are there other suggestions of what I should do while I have it torn down? Any tips or tricks I should put in place or commonly wore parts that would be good to replace now?

Thanks for reading!
Nick
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post #2 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-08-2018, 08:59 AM
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Hi Nick,

You didn't say where it's leaking from? If the rear main is leaking, you're probably going to have to pull the crank...

On my most recent build I used the BOP 1-piece oil pan gasket. I like it a lot. It's a steel core gasket that's encased in rubber with ribs on both sealing surfaces. The steel core keeps it from 'squishing out' when you tighten all the bolts.
For valve covers, I used the Edelbrock 7590's. For intake manifold, I used the Felpro's that have the raised silicone sealing bead around the ports. For headers, I really like Remflex. For the rear main, I used one of the new BOP 1-piece seals. I had trouble this time getting mine to seal, mostly because of the (mis)shape of the aftermarket oil pan I'm running. To make sure, I put the engine together, filled it with 2 gallons of oil, and hung it from my hoist "butt down" to make sure the entire rear of the crank was submerged in oil for two days to see if it was going to drip. It took me a few tries because of the pan, but I did finally get it sealed up.

I used the good GM silicone gasket sealer - the kind that comes in a tube and needs a small 'caulking gun' to apply - on just one surface of the few gaskets where I used any sealer at all. One of the tricks is to apply a small bead of the stuff (don't go crazy, you don't want globs of it squishing out where it can circulated around in your oiling system), install the parts with the bolts LOOSE (just tight enough so that the sealant is touching both surfaces), let it cure for about an hour to start firming up, then tighten the bolts. If you don't have an inch-pound torque wrench, get one. It's not hard to overtighten the pan bolts and valve cover bolts enough to dimple them and cause leaks. I also put small dabs of it in the "corners", like where the timing cover, block, and oil pan meet and also where the heads, block, and lifter cover meet.

Bear

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post #3 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-08-2018, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
 
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Hi Bear,

Thanks for all the gasket info. I am not EXACTLY sure where all it is leaking from yet. After looking last night (was labeling the different wiring in prep of the pull) I noticed it is leaking from the front of the oil pan and also the bottom of the front of the trans is wet with oil. Would that be the rear main?

Of course the valve covers and headers are leaking as well. How about replaceable parts while I am that deep in the engine? I guess I might have to determine that after a tear down. If I pull the crank and connecting rods are there any issue reusing those bolts or are they a one time deal?

I am in no real hurry to get this back together and am hoping to really learn a lot more about all of it during the process.

Thanks!
Nick
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post #4 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-08-2018, 02:14 PM
 
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Originally Posted by nrc17gto View Post
Hi Bear,

Thanks for all the gasket info. I am not EXACTLY sure where all it is leaking from yet. After looking last night (was labeling the different wiring in prep of the pull) I noticed it is leaking from the front of the oil pan and also the bottom of the front of the trans is wet with oil. Would that be the rear main?

Of course the valve covers and headers are leaking as well. How about replaceable parts while I am that deep in the engine? I guess I might have to determine that after a tear down. If I pull the crank and connecting rods are there any issue reusing those bolts or are they a one time deal?

I am in no real hurry to get this back together and am hoping to really learn a lot more about all of it during the process.

Thanks!
Nick
You do not want to reuse rod bolts. Once you break them loose, they are done with in my book. This will require a machine shop to remove and replace them with the better ARP rod bolts which most use. While they are apart, they should be checked for roundness & size. Often it is just a little more to go with new forged I-beam rods versus rebuilding the older cast rods if you have to have them resized and new rod bolts. Forged rods are of course stronger, so a little more insurance against a rod failure. The down side may be that you will have to balance the engine with the new rods, but a machine shop might be able to match the rod balance and then you would not have to balance the engine.

I would install threaded pipe plugs in place of the press fit cups in the oil passages. The pressed in plugs will work, just make sure they are "staked" so they don't come loose. Pipe plugs screw in and won't come loose, but a machine shop may be needed unless you have the taps to do so.

New oil pump and aftermarket hardened oil pump shaft.

I would install the 3/4 groove main bearings https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...w/make/pontiac
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post #5 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-08-2018, 05:23 PM
 
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Been there done that. Just be prepared financially. Once you crack it open that far. It wants to take the long road home. Lol
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post #6 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-09-2018, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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Oh man. I was really hoping to not have to take it all to a machine shop. Was thinking maybe just the heads. I guess this is only necessary if I find some kind of failure or the rear main is leaking right? I was under the car tonight and I cant tell for sure yet if it is the rear main seal or just the oil pan leaking. The oil pan seems to be leaking in multiple points all the way around.

Thanks,
Nick
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post #7 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-09-2018, 06:10 PM
 
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Originally Posted by nrc17gto View Post
Oh man. I was really hoping to not have to take it all to a machine shop. Was thinking maybe just the heads. I guess this is only necessary if I find some kind of failure or the rear main is leaking right? I was under the car tonight and I can't tell for sure yet if it is the rear main seal or just the oil pan leaking. The oil pan seems to be leaking in multiple points all the way around.

Thanks,
Nick
I believe mine was leaking thru the rear of the valley pan or distributor. when I pulled the motor it looked like it was running down the back side of the block.behind the flywheel. rear main could have been leaking also tho it was hard to tell. Had a worn cam and a lifter ticking which caused some slight scratching of the crank from cam/lifter shavings. So I decided to rebuild it and get the compression down slightly to run on pump gas. By the way. My car also ran good when I first got it so I put a new gasket set,oil and water pump. Detailed the motor and got ten years out of it.

Last edited by RMTZ67; 12-09-2018 at 06:36 PM.
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post #8 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-09-2018, 10:22 PM
 
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Been there done that. Just be prepared financially. Once you crack it open that far. It wants to take the long road home. Lol
X2 on above. If it's been twenty plus years I will bet you are leaking at main seal. But so do most Pontiacs. I would be ready to do a full rebuild if you start tearing it down . Then it's up to you how far and how many parts need or you want to replace . I will also add that I m willing to bet your into that motor for $2500/3000 if your able to do most work yourself,or double if you have a shop do it. I'm not trying to scare you from doing this but you really need to know up front what your heading for. Please read all you can on the threads on this forum and PY so you understand what you will need to do. Best luck Doug
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post #9 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
 
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I have been reading a good deal on here about intakes as well. My current setup is a performer RPM and I have no complaints on it. I do still have the factory intake that I replaced ~20 years ago. Should I clean and put the factory one back on it or stick with the performer RPM?

It is hard for me to say if the intake helped or hurt since I originally replaced it while doing the cam.

Thanks,
Nick
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post #10 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 08:42 AM
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It's up to you, really. It's doubtful that the Performer intake makes any more power than the factory intake, in fact some tests have shown that it doesn't make quite as much. However it does save you some weight on the front of the car.

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  Pontiac GTO Forum > The 1964-1974 Pontiac Tempest, Lemans & GTO > 1964-1974 Tempest, LeMans & GTO Engine Tuning and High Performance

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