: "My last question has to do with zero lash concept. I know what it means - it's literally twist pushrods horizontally between thumb and index finger, tighten nut as you do this, and when rod starts to become more difficult to twist (requires more torque to twist) you are at "zero lash". correct? - then the 1/4 turn extra is applied - and tighten the locknut. How much torque on locknut? snug or until it squeaks."
: You can do it any way you want or what your engine builder says to do. Not the way I "zero lash" the valve train. How will you know which lifter might be pumped with oil and which is not? How will you know your lifter is at its lowest point of travel? How much torque is there in the thumb/forefinger spin? Is the last pushrod going to be the same spin pressure as the first? How do you torque gauge your fingers so each pushrod is consistent?
In the upper right hand corner is "Google Custom Search." Type in "Zero Lash Lifters" to read a few of the posts.
If you had stamped rockers, you would want to purchase a set of Rocker Arm Oil Splash Clips from Summit as pictured. This is what I use when "zero lash" adjusting one side at a time with engine running. Keeps the oil from splashing all over, never an issue with these.
Roller rockers might be a problem. As bigD
stated, you could use an old steel Pontiac valve cover and cut out a section to access the rocker arm nuts and have enough metal overhand to cover the oil spurt holes in the roller rockers. Example here:
Also found this on Youtube. Seems to me it would not take much to fashion up a steel/aluminum plate that you could clamp/vice grip at the end/sides of the heads where your valve cover sets on.
: "and tighten the locknut. How much torque on locknut? snug or until it squeaks."
: You are using polylocs, right? It has an allen screw in the center that gets tightened down. So not sure what you are referring to with "tighten the locknut."
Here is what bigD
told you to do: I tightened the inner lock screw (allen screw) at zero lash (meaning when you get the valve at zero lash), then tightened the outer nut a little more.
You don't put killer torque on the allen screw or you can strip it out of the polyloc - nice and snug, and something you learn to get a "feel" for. Then you tweak the lock nut using your wrench just to give it a slight twist, maybe 1 /16" or so, just to put a little additional torque on the allen screw. Watch this Youtube video. Jump right to timeline 5:20 and watch until 5:40 to see what this looks like.
Again, too much and you can strip out the allen screw threads, not enough and the polyloc will eventually loosen up over time and back off. So you check once in a while just to be on the safe side. Typically once set, they don't back off.