Originally Posted by TheGoatFather1965
Then i should be alright as im going to plug in the vacuum line on the distributer side and the vacuum port on the carb side.
Then it shouldn’t change i will re-check the timing. I usually check my total timing at 4000rpm, would this give me an accurate degree?
Total can be in at a number of RPM's ranges based on the mechanical advance weight/springs - that is how you tailor your advance curve.
Do not know what timing light you are using or if you have a timing tape on your balancer. I like to use a dial back timing light as it is a bit easier to use because when you hit the timing advance you set the dial to (ie 34 degrees), your timing mark on the balancer will be at zero. Using a regular timing light, you need a timing tape to accurately get your reading for full advance so you can read off of it. With a dial-back timing light, set it at the desired "all-in" advance and bring the RPM's up slowly and watch the RPM's. When the advance stops, that is the total RPM number full advance is realized. Could be anywhere from 3,200 to 4,000 RPM's.
You can also watch to see when the mechanical advance begins to kick in and your timing begins to move up from the Initial setting on the balancer, which may be from 1,000 - 1,500 RPM's.
Disconnect your vacuum advance to get total advance - Initial (balancer) + Mechanical (Distrib. weights). This will also tell you how many degrees your mechanical advance is simply by knowing what you set the Initial advance on the balancer minus your total advance number. If you had 12 Initial minus 34 Total, your Mechanical Advance would be 22 degrees.
Keep in mind that these numbers can change once you get the car on the road and the engine is under load, and it is a 95 degree summer day. You may need to retard the timing if you hear any kind of engine pinging.