Best way to detail engine bay - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-02-2013, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
 
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Best way to detail engine bay

Since the motors out and I have a little time, need to know the best way and what to do to detail the engine bay back to a cleaner look. Tried searching on here, no luck

I don't have access to a trailer to tow it anywhere, so as far as cleaning it would need to be from a rented pressure washer or from house hose and sprayer, lol......it is a good amount of pressure, but not 2k psi from rental.

What degresser and spray paints?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-02-2013, 10:39 PM
 
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Last November I pulled my motor and was going to do some minor detailing. Well, it ended up at this...

https://www.gtoforum.com/f83/before-after-pics-41297/

I concluded it was not that much more work to pull the fenders and core support, and do it right. I had my inner wheel wells, core support and control arms sand blasted. Used a wire brush on my grinder to clean up the frame. Painted everything in my garage using a make-shift paint booth made from hanging plastic and venting outside.

Installed new bushings, etc. when putting it back together. This may be a little more than what you are intending, but i am happy with the end result!

Oh yeah, the other benefit to this approach is that it is very easy to install the motor and trans when the core support and fenders are off!!
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-02-2013, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by leeklm View Post
Last November I pulled my motor and was going to do some minor detailing. Well, it ended up at this...

https://www.gtoforum.com/f83/before-after-pics-41297/

I concluded it was not that much more work to pull the fenders and core support, and do it right. I had my inner wheel wells, core support and control arms sand blasted. Used a wire brush on my grinder to clean up the frame. Painted everything in my garage using a make-shift paint booth made from hanging plastic and venting outside.

Installed new bushings, etc. when putting it back together. This may be a little more than what you are intending, but i am happy with the end result!

Oh yeah, the other benefit to this approach is that it is very easy to install the motor and trans when the core support and fenders are off!!
Not going to be able to sand blast as the wheel wells, core support and control arms won't be able to be pulled. My only option at this time is to work with what I can in the pic.

PS: the wire thats tied together is holding up the exhaust's, don't laugh....lol

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2013, 06:59 AM
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My bay was in far worse shape than yours. I bagged sensitive areas and power washed the grime and loose scale away. When dry I used wire brushes and aggressive sand paper reducing to finer grits for rough areas. I then wiped all down with degreaser.

I used black etching primer for areas that went to bare metal. Next I applied Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator to areas that had surface rust I removed. I then used Eastwoods's Extreme chassis black on the chassis and chassis components. I then used Eastwood's under hood paint. The stuff wears like iron.

Most parts were removed after painting and replaced with new i.e. trans cooling lines, hoses, fuel lines etc. I left them on to eliminate more taping etc.
If mine looked as good as yours, Id'a degreased and freshened with a new light coat of paints.

My first time doing this. Turned out good and still looks fresh albeit for road dust I detail off periodically.

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Last edited by GTO JUDGE; 04-03-2013 at 07:09 AM.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2013, 09:43 AM
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Yeah, that doesn't look bad at all. Maybe a couple cans of engine gunk degreaser and a garden hose then some soap and water will be enough.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2013, 01:58 PM
 
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Rukee;
You might also find that mineral spirits and some soft brushes and rags will help with the grease and grime removal. It won't damage paint and it is easy to work with.

On some southern/dry climate cars, I've been surprised how good everything looks after it's been cleaned; yours looks like it might be one of those.

1968 Pontiac GTO
1983 Pontiac Bonneville (G) wagon
2008 Pontiac G8 base
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2013, 03:44 PM
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The cost of mineral spirits here have gone through the roof. A gallon jug of it now is obscenely high of nearly 7.00. I used brake cleaner and some nasty stuff a friend loaned me that would take hair off your chest. It minimized my grinding and sanding but it is lethal and not able to be bought over the counter. Brake cleaner is what I use for degreasing works good for me.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2013, 05:52 PM
 
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Try oven cleaner for the greasy areas

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-09-2013, 09:25 AM
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X, my engine compartment looked a lot like yours on my '67 when I had the engine out two years ago. No reason at all to sandblast and repaint a rust free, ORIGINAL engine compartment, IMO. I used kerosene on a rag with a paint brush and a portable steam cleaner afterwards. I touched up the shabby areas with low gloss black that was a perfect match, and semi flat black on one spot on the firewall. Recently, I was able to use kerosene and fine steel wool to remove overspray from a 20 year old paint job off of my core support, and it came out great. The main thing that helped was a newly painted/sealed engine, new engine wiring harness, and all of the 'correct' battery cable clips, etc. The devil is in the details. The front clip of my '67 has never been off...ever, and the hood, doors, and fenders have perfect alignment...much better than a lot of 'show' GTO's I've seen going for big bucks. I would not remove the front clip from the car unless you like making a lot of extra work for yourself. Cars that are not rusty do not need extensive disassembly and refinishing. Simply cleaning thoroughly will often get it done.
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