Thank you for the quick reply. If I am understanding you correctly, I measured (screenshots) and on the "OLD" cable it was 3 1/4 inches. where the new cable was 3 3/4 inches as shown in my screenshots.
I would then cut the NEW cable to match the 3 1/4 inches of the OLD cable as shown. This would mean that my gas pedal would work the same as it did previously I believe. The fact that I have the extra cable casing along the run won't matter as both cables on the carburetor side fit perfectly.
Please let me know if you think I am misunderstanding or missing a point as you are mentioning a pull length of 7".
On my OLD original cable, I am measuring 3 1/4 inches (i.e. when the gas pedal is NOT touched) on the side of the cable connected to the carburetor. On the inside of the car where the cable connects to the gas pedal I am seeing 3 1/4 inches from the connector that touches the pedal to the part that sticks out of the firewall (i.e. as if the gas pedal is depressed completely). This gives me a 6 1/2 inch stop to stop and not 7" as you recommend.
The new cable is 3 3/4 inches on each side (which equals 7 1/2" total) stop to stop.
Yes, correct. I was looking at the top scale on the tape measure thinking it was inches in your first photos so that was where I got my numbers from.
So maybe there is another solution. 1/2" difference is not much at all. Why not reposition the cable attachment on the carb forward 1/2"? Couldn't you simply drill a new hole 1/2" forward of the attachment point you now have. This would extend out the cable 1/2" more and should take out the slack in the cable. Do a test. Connect it to the pedal, leave the eyelet hook-up at the carb loose, and pull the cable forward towards the front of the car to take the slack out of the cable and see where they eyelet end positions with regards to the carb attachment point.
If you did not want to drill the carb, fabricate a short extension using some 1/8" or 3/16" thick steel. Drill your hole in one end so you can reposition it over the cable attachment bolt you now have. I see 3 nuts under the eyelet end used as spacers - I would leave one as a "spacer" when you attach your extension.
Mark where you need to drill the 2nd hole to connect your eyelet which should be 1/2" away from the end hole you are going to use to attach to the carb. (so you should have 2 holes drilled into the extension approximately 1/2" apart center to center)
Put the length of bolt needed to attach the eyelet end to the extension end first as the head of the bolt might be sandwiched between the carb bracket and extension. Then slip the other end over the original bolt having the 1 nut to be used as a "spacer." This nut will also be sandwiched between the carb bracket and the extension. Once in place, add your nut and tighten the bolt/extension having the spacer. Now you should be able to slip the eyelet end of the cable over the most forward bolt. Add a couple nuts if needed like you originally had to space the eyelet out to get the cable straight. You will want to use a lock nut on the end of the bolt so you don't clamp down too tight on the eyelet seeing it has to move. If that works, I would get a "throttle cable stud" to replace the bolt used for the eyelet which is better and safer. If you Google it, you will see quite a few selections.
So, in a nut shell. You are going to fabricate an extension to take up the difference in the 2 cables which appears to be 1/2". 2 holes will be drilled in your extension 1/2" apart. One hole will attach to the carb bracket hole, the other will have a stud/bolt to attach the eyelet.