has stated plus, you invested in parts hoping to find the issue, but I did not read anywhere that you purchased one of the inexpensive hand-held laser temperature guns from your local auto parts store to verify what your gauge reads. What if your gauge is inaccurate or the sending unit to the gauge is not exactly matched to it?
Get the laser gun to check engine temps at the upper hose, lower hose, and parts of the radiator for flow.
Air bubble in the coolant system? This can happen. I always pull off the radiator cap when cold, then fire up the engine and watch for the coolant to "move." Once the engine reaches temp (160), the thermostat will open allowing antifreeze to circulate and you will see it very clearly - it should be above the radiator cooling tubes at the top. Allow it to run like this for a short time and watch for any bubbles. Without the radiator cap on, it is possible that any trapped air can be "burped" from the system. I like to drill one or two 1/8" holes in the ring of the T-stat just for this purpose so any trapped air will squeak out even if the T-stat is closed. If all looks good, put your cap back on.
Not the biggest supporter when it comes to clutch fans. Depending on the brand, some are better. My preference is a flex fan which has no slip and draws air well at lower RPM's.
If the engine is still fresh with few miles on it, it may still be "tight" and this can add to higher temps. Higher compression will mean additional cylinder pressures which also equals more heat in the engine.
Temps will go up if you drive the car a bit hard and then don't give the engine time too cool down, as in shutting it off early. Temps will also climb once you shut the engine off as coolant is no longer circulating, so this is normal.
If you don't mind trying an additive, I can say I have used this product in my previous engine build which ran hotter than I liked and it did drop coolant temps down
in my engine and ran cooler overall. You won't see drastic changes but every few degrees helps and the product has other properties worth noting. I got mine at my local Advance Auto store. https://www.redlineoil.com/waterwetter
Timing can affect engine temps. Too much retard and it will run hot. Too much advance can do the same thing. So you might want to play around with this as well. What you do not want is engine "pinging" or "detonation." Not knowing what your compression is, 93 octane may not be enough if you did not drop your compression down to around 9.3ish during the rebuild. .030" over will only add more compression to whatever your stock compression is. Add an aftermarket cam with specs designed to build cylinder pressure, and you may need racing gas.