Pulling engine and dropping driveshaft - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
 
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Pulling engine and dropping driveshaft

I'm at the point where I'm pulling the old 350 (separate from trans) and dropping the drive shaft.

To remove the drive shaft you remove the 4 bolts to drop the shaft in the rear and it should slide out of the front? Is this correct?

I have one bolt removed from the flywheel, a second that is being difficult ( i just backed off for now), and there is how many more in there? Is it best to lift the rear and put the car in neutral and turn the drive shaft to access the other fly wheel bolts.

What is the best method(s) for doing these tasks?

Thank you.

JOSHUA
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 08:41 AM
 
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Josh, 1st) Make sure the car is secure. Then: Remove the 4 nuts fron the rear U bolts on the drive shaft. Push the drive shaft towards the tranny about an inch. Tape the caps on the rear U joint so they don't fall off. Next, put a bucket under the rear of the tranny, then slide the drive shaft out.
YES, to disconnect the tranny from the flexplate (flywheel) you will need to turn the engine (by the crank bolt at the front) until you acsess and remove all the convertor to flexplate bolts....then remove the tranny to engine bolts (bell housing). Support the tranny and give it a sharp pull back...it should pop loose....take it easy on the front shaft so you don't ruin it. Tape a Paper cup over the tail of the tranny so you don't get fluid all over..... ALSO, dont forget to remove the shift cable, and cooling lines first...........Eric



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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
 
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Do you happen to know what size that bolt is ... On the crank .... Off hand? It's bigger than my largest socket.


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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 12:11 PM
 
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Would also recommend marking drive shaft to differential and flywheel to torque converter connections so you get them back together the same spot they came apart. Matt

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 12:17 PM
 
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If you're talking about the harmonic balancer bolt, it is 15/16 and if it was torqued right, it's on there at 160 ft lbs so lift some weights.

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 12:36 PM
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If you don't have a 15/16 socket, you may be able to reach into the starter area with a big screwdriver against the flexplate teeth prying against the block and turn the engine over that way.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew View Post
Would also recommend marking drive shaft to differential and flywheel to torque converter connections so you get them back together the same spot they came apart. Matt

I will make sure I do that. Thank you.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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Well I fiddle with it for about an hour and couldn't get it to loosen up (drive shaft at rear axle). Took the four bolts out and gave it a few swift whacks. Nothing! Not even sure why they put bolts in there in the first place . What am I doing wrong? Does it have to be under a certain load for it to free up? Any suggestions?

Also, couldn't turn the crank with the socket and didn't have a beefy enough screw driver to wedge in there and pry the flywheel around. Maybe I don't have enough leverage with the 15/16 socket. Need to hit the gym perhaps. The motor was a running motor when parked about 8 months ago.

On another note in neutral when I spin the driveshaft both wheels turn. Does this mean posi?
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 07:05 AM
 
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Recommend a small breaker bar between the u-joint and the differential. You are trying to unseat the two bearing caps the retainer bolts were holding in place. The drive shaft will go further into the transmission tail housing when doing this. Try not to beat on those two caps. Also, don't let the caps come off while unseating the u-joint. It will come out. As Mr Eric said, run tape around the u-joint to hold the caps on. Matt

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 07:41 AM
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Bigger hammer, bigger braker bar, and yes, posi.
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