Driver quality re-paint process - Pontiac GTO Forum
User Tag List

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
 
gotyorgoat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Denver
Posts: 121
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Driver quality re-paint process

I am looking for a little advice on a do-it-yourself driver quality paint job and I know alot of you here have the experience. I was going to wait a while to do the paint, but the car has so many patches and primer spots that I decided to just get it done. Here are the steps that I plan to follow. Please let me know if I am off base. The car has had one repaint which is cracking in spots and the whole thing is faded or cloudy.

I am only looking for driver quality so please help me keep it simple. I am thinking of House of Kolor Mandarin.

1. Sand the entire car down with a da getting up all of the loose or flaking paint, scuffing any old bondo while leaving most of the origional paint and primer as possible.
2. Prime bare metal spots with etching primer and lightly sand
3. Wash and wipe down with degreaser
3. Apply epoxy primer to entire cars rough surface
4. Use rage to smooth any ripples and use the da/block to sand smooth
5. Wash and wipe down
6. Apply a couple of coats of high build primer
7. Block it out using guide coat
8. Use rage to again fill any low spots
9. Spot prime where necessary after blocking
10. Wet sand entire car
11. Apply sealer over entire car?
12. Do I need to sand the sealer before paint?
13. Paint
14. Color sand
15. Clear coat
16. Buff

Thanks for the help.
gotyorgoat is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 07:28 PM
 
Instg8ter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Near Detroit
Posts: 3,924
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Sounds pretty good....on step 8 use body icing for the filler it sands much more like high build primer as the rage is a little tougher to cut with finer grits. no need to sand sealer if you did your wet sanding good and have no runs. Also, if you are using a basecoat/clearcoat system you do not color sand before clear, just spray color/spray clear so eliminate 14 also. but you will need to sand out the clear before you buff (to get out any clutter)

Instg8ter is offline  
post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 08:42 PM
 
crustysack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: rhode island
Posts: 1,217
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
DO NOT sand color, just shoot clear right over it, after it flashes off, THEN wet sand and buff the clear.

crustysack is offline  
 
post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 10:27 PM
 
jetstang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Niceville, FL
Posts: 3,376
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Garage
YOu can color sand the base if you see issues. But, if you did the prior work correct, you shouldn't need to. If not, base is not a good time to fix minor flaws, but can happen.

Burning rubber since 1982!!
My photobucket, lots of dif car pics.
http://s411.photobucket.com/home/jetstang
jetstang is offline  
post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
 
gotyorgoat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Denver
Posts: 121
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks for the clarification. That would have been a big mistake right at the end.

What can I do to avoid a cloudy finish?

Is a clear coat finish more idiot proof than a single stage?

I am also leaning toward a metallic paint.
gotyorgoat is offline  
post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-18-2012, 10:51 PM
 
jetstang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Niceville, FL
Posts: 3,376
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Garage
Metallic is bad and it may build up in areas, and gun pressure could tiger stripe it. Solid colors are easier to repair and blend. Single stage solids are easier than base clear. Metallic, you shoot it dryer with base clear, so not to tiger stripe. If this is your first paint job, do single stage to save money. Base/clear is always better and more durable and stay away from metallics.

Burning rubber since 1982!!
My photobucket, lots of dif car pics.
http://s411.photobucket.com/home/jetstang
jetstang is offline  
post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 10:15 AM
Former Super Moderator
 
Rukee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: South Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,919
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
If you clear coat, be sure the base coat has totally flashed or dried before you spray the clear or you'll have the base coat trying to come through the clear coat. Don't ask me how I know.
Rukee is offline  
post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 02:00 PM
 
Instg8ter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Near Detroit
Posts: 3,924
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
with Jet, if it is just a "driver" finish and you are just trying to go over some old work thats popping up and not taking it down to bare metal all around, stick with a single stage. as chances are the old sins will pop back up in a few seasons. the BC/CC materials alone will run you around 1000.00.

Instg8ter is offline  
post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 02:33 PM
64-67 Expert
 
geeteeohguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fresno, California
Posts: 8,457
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 98 Post(s)
I'm no painter, but I agree with the single stage. I also agree with leaving as much of the factory primer on the car as possible. If it's not rusting thru after 45+ years, it's not going to now. I have single stage on both of mine ('65 was painted in 1985, and '67 was painted in 1993) and both still look nice. I like single stage because that's how these cars looked originally....shiny, but not like a glazed ham. I've also never seen a base/clear hold up as long. I had one base/clear car last 10 years before peeling and fading under the clear, and my '94 Toyota started to lose its clear a couple of years ago. I've never seen a base/clear job last 20+ years like my single stage cars....and I'm a guy who keeps his cars forever.
geeteeohguy is offline  
post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 09:47 PM
 
58mark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mesquite Tx
Posts: 144
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
If you are shooting urethane, it's next to impossible to get metallics to look right if you are shooting single stage. Go BC/CC
58mark is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Pontiac GTO Forum > The 1964-1974 Pontiac Tempest, Lemans & GTO > 1964-1974 Tempest, Lemans & GTO Paint Shop Discussions

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Pontiac GTO Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Video Ferrari vs Cab Driver In Las Vegas Cab Driver Starts Crying After Getting Slapp batmans The Lounge 1 06-20-2011 05:32 PM
RE: Ye Old Clay Bar Process PDQ GTO Exterior Discussions 3 06-14-2008 07:40 PM
Wax Process? GasTireOil Exterior Discussions 2 03-15-2008 08:48 PM
Paint Chips - Rust is appearing! What process is necessary? O'Town Exterior Discussions 3 01-17-2007 02:54 PM
Car Painting...The Process... GumbyGoat 2004-2006 GTO General Discussion 4 05-24-2005 03:35 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome