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post #1 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-09-2011, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
 
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home made paint booth?

ok guys. I'm not totally there yet but I'm ready for some paint and body work to get started on this car. I'm wondering if I can build a paint booth to isolate the car from the outside world of the shop while I attempt to paint it. my buddy said to just make a quick 2x4 frame to go around the outside of it with plastic all around. I thought I needed some way to vent it etc. also, much of this car is already painted, albeit badly and over the top of factory paint. should I strip it with a chemical stripper and then move to body work and priming, or should I just give it a good sand down and go from there leaving all paint in place pretty much? car will be black.
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post #2 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-09-2011, 01:02 PM
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If you've got good adhesion with what's already on it and no rust issues, then unless the existing paint is "too thick" I'd probably sand it all over, lay down a coat of good epoxy primer as a sealer, then go with paint.

Which type/brand/line are you planning to use? Base coat/clear coat? Single stage? etc.

if you can swing it I highly recommend Kevin Tetz's "Paintucation" DVD's -- terrific information. Get them "various places" and/or at paintucation.com

Also he has a forum up at Kevin Tetz's Paintucation Forum that's a great source of help.

Unless you're prepared to spend 'big bucks' on building a booth you're just not going to be able to keep all the dust and trash out of the paint, so just be ready for that ahead of time and "be prepared" to correct the spots afterwards. Are you planning to color/wet sand it after painting and then buff it out?

I can tell you that when I painted my 69 (also black) I shot it in my garage, no plastic or nothing --- I bought 4 cheapo box fans and built a wooden framework around them so they'd fit underneath my garage door. I arranged them with 3 blowing in, 1 blowing out - the idea that the net "positive pressure" inside would tend to force dust and crap -out- intead of drawing it in. I put hvac filters over the fans to filter the air they moved. It worked "fair" - meaning I guess they helped a little but I still had a lot of trash in the clear I had to deal with afterwards.







Honestly? I really couldn't "prove" they helped any at all.

I've also heard of people just painting outside in the open air and getting pretty good results, and also others putting up one of those "temporary" garages that's really just a big tent over a metal frame. With the latter you have to be careful about the material used in the awning, some of it makes a lot of lint.

If I had it to do again, and didn't have to worry about neighbors, I'd probably try the open air route, provided I could get a calm day with temps in the 75-85 degree range.

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post #3 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-09-2011, 03:42 PM
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I did the same thing with the box fans, only I had them all blowing out under the garage door, then I took out a window on the opposite side and put furnace filters in. Then lined the walls and benches with some rolled paper about 4' wide, two high to cover everything. Then hosed the floor down with water to keep the dust down, work very well and had only like 4 specks of dirt when I was done.
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post #4 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-09-2011, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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I have a lot of air space in my shop....it's all metal and insulated with plastic backing....If I do the box fans all blowing out with a furnace filter will that provide adequate insulation? I was planning on trying the works. but I was going to try the trunk of the car first to see if I'm worth a crap at it. I've done a little research online about painting but not a lot. I have not decided on any of the brands or lines. I'm actually open to recommendations. I would prefer to keep it budget friendly since I'm going to be attempting the paint myself and would be very upset with myself if a botched several hundred dollars worth of paint. my only other color preference was a fire engine red color. I have black wheels and red brakes so it is either black or red. Im pretty set on black but don't know how much red would conceal imperfections over black.
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post #5 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-09-2011, 04:41 PM
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Black will show everything. I did the inside of the panels and door jams first to get a feel of the paint gun.
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post #6 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-09-2011, 05:35 PM
 
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For a mid grade base coat clear coat plan on spending 1000-1500 in just paint primers and clear, not a couple hundred, so do your homework on body and prep thats where all the work is and what makes a GOOD paint job. Like Bear said a lot of sins in the paint can be corrected with wetsand and buff, but not if its in the underlying bodywork. I had only original paint on mine and sealed it with epoxy before starting body work if you go Black plan on basically skim coating the whole car with polyester spot filler after you take care of any major body work, and wet sanding with long blocks to laser straight before you put on multiple coats of a high build primer and do it all over again. Before you even think about spraying color you should have your primer sanded wet with 500 where you see your reflections with no waves or low spots or deep scratches when you wipe it down with water or grease remover. Then your ready to throw 800 worth of color and clear on it. I did 3 coats color and 4 coats clear then 10's of hours wetsanding to 2500 and buffing. All that being said i am glad i tackled it myself, and you will find out quickly why a GOOD body and paint job can cost 20,000 dollars.....
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post #7 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-09-2011, 06:53 PM
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When we did my '67 way back when, we hung up visqueen plastic and made a plastic paint booth. Watered down the shop floor. No fans. There would have been almost zero trash in the paint if I had remembered to blow out the sanding dust out of the windshield channel!!! D-oh!!! I agree with Bear on the no strip to bare metal deal....nothing seals better against rust than the factory primer and basecoat. Sand it and block it, then go for it.
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post #8 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-10-2011, 08:31 AM
 
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Randy (05 GTO) has some pics here somewhere (I think) of a temporary booth he built to paint his cars.....give him a shout. Eric



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post #9 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-10-2011, 09:46 AM
 
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From the experience gained from my uncle and his painting the biggest deal will be prep, not only the car but the area you are working in. Sweeping the floors, keeping the dust in the air to a minimum and keeping the area ventilated are just a few major things. Good luck thou and post pictures!!!

05 GTO - Midnight Blue - SLP Loudmouth 1 - lingenfelter air intake
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post #10 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-10-2011, 11:58 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by virginiavenom;290997,
much of this car is already painted, albeit badly and over the top of factory paint. should I strip it with a chemical stripper and then move to body work and priming, or should I just give it a good sand down and go from there leaving all paint in place pretty much? car will be black.
GM cars from this vintage were painted from the factory in lacquer. If your car still has the original lacquer finish do yourself a favor and strip your car down to metal.
Lacquer paint is notorious for what they call cracking,checking, or hazing, none good.
No matter how much body work, primer, or paint you put over top of old lacquer paint it will eventually screw up the paint on top of it

Good luck
Bill
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