need help. paint. 71 lemans convertitble. - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-18-2011, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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need help. paint. 71 lemans convertitble.

Ok, so Im wondering if anyone here could help me find some good quality paint. I just need someone to direct me to some good quality exterior paint for my 71 lemans. I am going to need the whole kit, hardner, reducer, exterior paint, etc, etc . Maybe someone can help lead me in the right direction, maybe a listing on ebay . I want to start getting the materials ready so when I get the cash together I can get it painted, but I want to make sure I get the good stuff. Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-18-2011, 11:05 PM
 
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i would buy from local auto body supply house, they will make sure everything is compatible and be there if you have any questions or need help, and they know the brands they sell the best, I am using Matrix, recommended by a number of local painters and i have seen it on 4-5 vehicles. whole package base color, premium clear , primer and sealer, wax and grease remover reducers and cleaning solvent came in around 500.00. PPG's top line is good also but a bit more expensive.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by projectszero View Post
Ok, so Im wondering if anyone here could help me find some good quality paint. I just need someone to direct me to some good quality exterior paint for my 71 lemans. I am going to need the whole kit, hardner, reducer, exterior paint, etc, etc . Maybe someone can help lead me in the right direction, maybe a listing on ebay . I want to start getting the materials ready so when I get the cash together I can get it painted, but I want to make sure I get the good stuff. Thanks in advance.
One of the key questions is compatibility, especially if you're not taking the car down to bare metal. Adhesion is the big concern and not "everything" is compatible with "everything else". If you aren't going to strip the car, then your first layer should be a good high quality epoxy primer used as a sealer and applied to a surface that has been prepared per instructions, and is compatible with what you're going to apply over it. If you don't have a set of Kevin Tetz's "Paintucation" DVD's, I highly recommend them. They're available from Eastwood and also from Kevin's Paintucation Web Site. Kevin also runs a paint and body work forum here. I found both of these resources extremely valuable when I started on my 69. I had never done any body work of any kind before, but now I've successfully replaced an entire quarter panel, patched rust damage in both front fenders and hood with new metal, and have the car straight, wet sanded, and ready for paint.

You can see a bunch of photos on my progress on my web site.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 11:09 AM
 
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You will also need flexible additives for the primer and cover coats for the endura front bumper.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 11:31 AM
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You will also need flexible additives for the primer and cover coats for the endura front bumper.
Not always, it really depends on which products you use. For example, I used epoxy primer from Southern Polyurethanes, Inc on my 69 and it's flexible enough for the bumper with out any flex additive. That's one of the reasons it's a good idea to go with a "name" product. They're almost always backed by a staffed tech support department who's able to help you address specific questions for your particular project.
At a minimum, always obtain, read, and understand the "Tech Sheet/P Sheet" for whichever products you're considering.

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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thanks Bear.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 04:21 PM
 
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i dont know how long you think its going to take till you are ready for this stuff but i wouldnt buy it now and let it just sit around for a year or two. i would wait and get newer stuff. things like hardener can go bad just sitting on the shelf.


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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 06:44 PM
 
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I've painted over 20 cars and have found you can't cheap charlie paint, unless you plan to do it again. I worked my way up to PPG Shopline base/clear, and found the clear pealing at the 2 year mark.. There is no substitute for quality paints. I found a shop that takes care of me and mixes there own paint, and I can't buy the paint for what they charge me for the complete job, I consider myself lucky and have had 3 complete cars, and a hood painted by them in the last 8 months!! A good paint will shine for 3 years without waxing. Anyway, get with a body shop supplier and buy quality paint, unless the body work isn't up to it, then just know that it won't last forever.

Burning rubber since 1982!!
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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Well , I wanted to try my hand at painting my car, but being that I have never done it before I am not brave enough to test on my car. So im gonna have my cousin paint the car he has over 10 years exp, I just talked to him and he's going to give me one heck of a deal, and he is able to get some good quality paint. He has all the proper tools, shop , paint booth, so Im just gonna hand it over to him. I will be putting it in the shop this weekend. Here's a pic of what it looks like now, it doesnt look bad, but it has a lot of faded areas in the paint. oh and you cant really tell , but there are some yellow racing stripes on the hood and trunk. I dont want to go back with putting the yellow stripes, but I do need some yellow on the exterior due to having custom yellow and black interior. What would yall suggest ? I've seen the gto stripe kits and was kinda thinking to go that way and get them in yellow. Previous owner got carried away with the yellow, and I cant afford to re-do the interior.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-19-2011, 09:38 PM
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Here's some advice I got from Kevin (and others) over on Paintucation. There's very little in the realm of paint and body work that you can "mess up" to the point that you can't take a step back, review, redo, and correct. The key is to do your homework, take advantage of the education that's available, go slow, and realize that there aren't any shortcuts. There's a very good reason that high quality paint and body work is hideously expensive and hard to find: you're essentially paying someone else to "care" about your car as much as you do. 90% or more of a top quality paint job is in the prep and labor that happens before the first coat of color is ever applied. It's time consuming and labor intensive. It's not, however, all THAT difficult in ways similar to the ways that, say, nuclear physics or brain surgery are difficult. I spent more than a year on my 69 doing all the metal work, priming, blocking, sanding, and wet sanding on my car to get it to the point where it is now: completely wet sanded, straight, solid, no rust, and ready for sealer, color coat, and clear coat. I KNOW it's right and straight because I did every bit of the work myself and made sure. When I ran into something I didn't know how to do, I stopped until I was able to learn and practice - then I did it. When there was a tiny defect in a panel, a high spot or a low spot, I kept working on it and re-applying surfacer (or glaze or filler, or redoing the metal work), block-sanding, re guide-coating, re-sanding, until it was dead nuts straight. It probably took me more "iterations" to get it right than it would have a pro, but the point is - I was able to eventually get it right. I know where every square inch of patched metal is on this car, I know exactly how every weld was done, and I know for an absolute fact that there's no filler on it -anywhere- that's thicker than a sixteenth of an inch. I know what kind of prep was done to all the areas that aren't visible, the braces behind the front fenders where I had to patch some rust, and the same on the hood braces. When I finally start spraying sealer, color, and clear I'll know for certain exactly how much time each coat was allowed to flash, what the air and metal temps were when it was sprayed, how many coats of each (and what brands) are on there, how each layer was mixed and strained, and also that no recoat time "windows" were missed. Unless you're standing over the guy when someone else does the work, those are all things that you just have to take on faith that they'll do correctly because none of it will "show" - at least not until well after you've paid the bill.
There's a cost in terms of time - I had no idea how much work was involved, I've sanded every square inch of this car, by hand, probably at least a dozen times. I wasted a lot of material (primer, surfacer, filler) learning how to work with it and how to get it right. I learned (painfully) not to trifle with trunk lid springs, and I learned (eventually) to remember to put on a mask before grabbing a sanding block (cough cough). Unless I chicken out now, I'm going all the way to the end myself and will do the sealer, color, clear, color-sanding, and buffing. I "hope" to have it done by the time summer arrives, but then I've never been very good at estimating the time required.
The point is, this is the very first time I've done any of this. I started just like you, knowing very little about any of it. I got lucky in finding both the Paintucation DVD's and forum - everything I've accomplished so far, I learned from there and from talking to the people I got my materials from. Southern Polyurethanes, especially, was very helpful.
Trust me when I say, if I can do it - probably anyone can. Just go slow, double check everything, and if something goes wrong - stop, until you're confident you know how to make it right.

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  Pontiac GTO Forum > The 1964-1974 Pontiac Tempest, Lemans & GTO > 1964-1974 Tempest, Lemans & GTO Paint Shop Discussions

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