Under Carriage Coating - Options ? - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-11-2015, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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Under Carriage Coating - Options ?

Hi,

I am in the process of scraping away surface rust and dirt from the under carriage of my 1967 GTO. I plan on painting and protecting it, I am just not sure with what. I am leaning towards POR 15 because it will create a permanent seal and prevent any future surface rust from appearing.

I am looking for feedback from others who have gone through the effort and painted their under carriage. What did you use? Why did you choose it and most importantly, are you happy with the results?

Thanks
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-11-2015, 06:47 PM
 
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Have done/am doing my frame with the POR-15 rust encapsulator and then the POR-15 topcoat. The POR-15 is like water in consistency and suppose it needs to be to get into any rough rusty areas or crevices. It says to do 2 coats because it is so thin. I only did one coat as I sand blasted my frame so it was clean. I also planned on the POR-15 topcoat which seals over the POR-15 rust encapsulator. I read that some paints do not take well to the POR-15 encapsulator, but the POR-15 topcoat seals and can then be painted over with no problems. I plan on a final topcoat over the POR with a coating of Rustoleum black spray bomb just to ensure I got it all.

The POR is not cheap, but don't let that fool you - it goes a long way. I did my frame with 1 quart, but this is one coat only AND, I still have to do the bottom of the frame rails as I still have some welding to do in boxing the side rails. I will then "tip" my frame on its side and sandblast the bottom of the frame rails & the welded areas. So I would say another quart will complete it and give me some left over to do some of the front suspension parts when I get to them. On the POR-15 topcoat, I used a pint up. Again, will need another to complete. So I would recommend 1 quart of POR-15 rust encapsulator for 2 coats and 1 pint of the POR-15 topcoat. You will most likely have left over which can be used elsewhere.

Follow these directions. Stir the mix, don't shake as the pigments settle. Buy a few small tupperware bowls and only pour what you need into the bowl. If you contaminate the POR-15, it all goes bad. Better to lose a small amount than the whole can - especially if you drip sweat into it as you are holding the can and leaning over it. I used a cheapo $1 paint brush to apply because you will throw it away after use -along with the tupperware bowl. WIPE the excess POR-15 that fills the rim of the paint can when you pour it out. Mop it up with your brush to soak it up, then wipe it out as clean as possible before putting the lid back on. It will be a fight to get the lid off if you don't and go to use it next time. Some say use plastic wrap over the top then put the lid on. Just wipe it off dry with a rag or paper towel.

Lightly sand/scuff the base POR-15 as per instructions before putting on the POR topcoat. Follow the POR directions in putting 2 coats of the rust encapsulator on as I only put the one coat on. You want to get all the grease off your surfaces. I started using this product called "Totally Awesome" because the GUNK type engine degreaser doesn't work anymore. It is sold in a spray bottle and 1 gallon jugs. Bought 1 gallon today for $3.00 to do some degreasing. Spray it on, let it sit for a while or scrub off, and spray off with water. The EPA hasn't gotten hold of it to reformulate it, so it still works. It seems to be available at discount type stores here in my area.

I put my unused POR in the refrigerator after opening (was good for several months). The heat and the air introduced into the can will cause it to age/cure. Near the end of the POR-topcoat which I did not refrig, it developed a "skin" on the top of the paint and I thought I had lost it, but the paint underneath was good and had enough to be used for my needs. So you can extend the life of the POR in the frig.....if your wife is OK with it (I 'ain't got one so I can put anything I want in my fridge right next to the beer!).

The POR seems to be good stuff right now, in my opinion. The topcoat seems to be a pretty hard coating and I think worth it to put over your base POR rust encapsulator. Long term, it will be many years before I can give an opinion, but I can't see why it would not work. Putting a final coat of spray bomb over everything has got to be better than the dirt and light rust that has been on the frame for almost 50 years - so I think it will outlive me.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-12-2015, 03:32 PM
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Depends where you are and what rust you are dealing with. Out here in CA, I would never use POR15....simply not needed. I would use regular semi-flat Rustoleum paint. If you are in a rusty area, you need to follow Pontiac Jim's advice.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-12-2015, 11:25 PM
 
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POR 15....follow these steps......clean all loose rust / hitting with a pic hammer and get it all free....or if you sand blast clean....the Metal...clean or rusted MUST be treated with the POR Metal Prep . If this step is not done ,you will have poor adhesion. So spray all metal with the Metal Wash to be treated..it has to sit on rust/metal for 10-20 minutes and keep it wet for that period of time. Then you have to rinse the metal with water...let dry over night...blow dry next day to make sure it is dry..or put it outside or dry it with heat lamps. Once dry then you can apply 2 coats per instructions on can. I have been in the autobody field for the last 39 years...and have used plenty of POR 15 with the metal prep and without the metal prep.....so you can learn from my mistakes.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 07:39 AM
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I treated my under carriage with Ospho rust treatment, sprayed with an epoxy sealer/primer, then sprayed with 3M™ Rubberized Undercoating #08882, then I mixed 6 parts rustoleum gloss black with 4 parts rustoleum flat black and sprayed.

The 3m product is a great sound deadener and isn't your typical undercoat.

Randy


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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-15-2015, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
 
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Awesome feedback and tips, thanks. I will post pics when I am done.

BTW - I am in NY
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-15-2015, 05:23 PM
 
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my mechanic friend introduced me to por-15 when i started my build . He had build a few cars and swore by it so I bought a gallon and went to town. I sand blasted frame and rear end and coated that. It came out really nice for being brushed on. as we assembled the frame I saw that you could hit this stuff with a hammer and NO CHIPPING. I then went nuts on car- did whole underside of body,firewall, wheel wells, tranny hump( that was new steel) trunk, radiator support, bumper brackets,gas tank, spindles, inside of roof, anything that could ever rust was coated. Follow directions as stated above and it will not fail. DO NOT GET IT ON YOU I had black freckles on my face for 3-4 weeks.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-15-2015, 08:16 PM
 
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I did not do all the prep work because I sandblasted my frame and it looked like clean metal. I found this ad today in an autobody newspaper. This explains the POR-15 procedure and the assorted materials needed to do a complete job, from rusty metal to finish topcoat.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-15-2015, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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Here are the before pics, I took the rear out (gear swap to 3.42 from 3.73) and also the exhaust which is in good shape. I am on the fence with taking the exhaust to a shop that can shoot it with VHT paint and bake it on. One guy said he would sand blast the exhaust and bake it for $100 if I bought the VHT paint, another guy wanted $400 to blast it and use ceramic coating. I had the headers coated in ceramic already and paid jet hot $$$, but you can see those.

Decisions, decisions....
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-17-2015, 05:23 AM
 
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Hey Tony goat and others. I'm about to follow your lead and am going the rout of POR15 since I'm on the east coast. I have a 64 with all original panels and no rust. I'm putting new body mounts in and decided to do the cleanup as well. My question is, is it advisable to leave the original undercoating on or scrape it off to bare? My original plan was to leave it on and just paint over it after I dust it off. There are only a few spots where it's flaked off but I'd say 90% of it is still there.
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