Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Gastonia, NC - Born & raised in Connecticut - 31 years
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Have done/am doing my frame with the POR-15 rust encapsulator and then the POR-15 topcoat. The POR-15 is like water in consistency and suppose it needs to be to get into any rough rusty areas or crevices. It says to do 2 coats because it is so thin. I only did one coat as I sand blasted my frame so it was clean. I also planned on the POR-15 topcoat which seals over the POR-15 rust encapsulator. I read that some paints do not take well to the POR-15 encapsulator, but the POR-15 topcoat seals and can then be painted over with no problems. I plan on a final topcoat over the POR with a coating of Rustoleum black spray bomb just to ensure I got it all.
The POR is not cheap, but don't let that fool you - it goes a long way. I did my frame with 1 quart, but this is one coat only AND, I still have to do the bottom of the frame rails as I still have some welding to do in boxing the side rails. I will then "tip" my frame on its side and sandblast the bottom of the frame rails & the welded areas. So I would say another quart will complete it and give me some left over to do some of the front suspension parts when I get to them. On the POR-15 topcoat, I used a pint up. Again, will need another to complete. So I would recommend 1 quart of POR-15 rust encapsulator for 2 coats and 1 pint of the POR-15 topcoat. You will most likely have left over which can be used elsewhere.
Follow these directions. Stir the mix, don't shake as the pigments settle. Buy a few small tupperware bowls and only pour what you need into the bowl. If you contaminate the POR-15, it all goes bad. Better to lose a small amount than the whole can - especially if you drip sweat into it as you are holding the can and leaning over it. I used a cheapo $1 paint brush to apply because you will throw it away after use -along with the tupperware bowl. WIPE the excess POR-15 that fills the rim of the paint can when you pour it out. Mop it up with your brush to soak it up, then wipe it out as clean as possible before putting the lid back on. It will be a fight to get the lid off if you don't and go to use it next time. Some say use plastic wrap over the top then put the lid on. Just wipe it off dry with a rag or paper towel.
Lightly sand/scuff the base POR-15 as per instructions before putting on the POR topcoat. Follow the POR directions in putting 2 coats of the rust encapsulator on as I only put the one coat on. You want to get all the grease off your surfaces. I started using this product called "Totally Awesome" because the GUNK type engine degreaser doesn't work anymore. It is sold in a spray bottle and 1 gallon jugs. Bought 1 gallon today for $3.00 to do some degreasing. Spray it on, let it sit for a while or scrub off, and spray off with water. The EPA hasn't gotten hold of it to reformulate it, so it still works. It seems to be available at discount type stores here in my area.
I put my unused POR in the refrigerator after opening (was good for several months). The heat and the air introduced into the can will cause it to age/cure. Near the end of the POR-topcoat which I did not refrig, it developed a "skin" on the top of the paint and I thought I had lost it, but the paint underneath was good and had enough to be used for my needs. So you can extend the life of the POR in the frig.....if your wife is OK with it (I 'ain't got one so I can put anything I want in my fridge right next to the beer!).
The POR seems to be good stuff right now, in my opinion. The topcoat seems to be a pretty hard coating and I think worth it to put over your base POR rust encapsulator. Long term, it will be many years before I can give an opinion, but I can't see why it would not work. Putting a final coat of spray bomb over everything has got to be better than the dirt and light rust that has been on the frame for almost 50 years - so I think it will outlive me.