Who and how much for new paint? - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2011, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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Who and how much for new paint?

Hello all,
I am new here and have been looking for a 66 or 67 GTO. So far I have struck out on buying the color of choice, which is black, but I also like the gold and dark blue. So now I've considered a car of any color and thought I can just get it painted black.

With that said, what is a good reputable shop to do this in the MI/OH area? And how much could I expect to pay for this?

I've never had a car painted before, for a good job would they need to take the old paint off? It would seem like and chips would reveal the old paint if they did not.
Thanks
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2011, 06:23 PM
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Painting a classic car is THE most expensive part of a restoration these days. In California, a "driver quality" paint job that is a complete color change costs around 10,000 dollars. Show quality is about twice that. My suggestion is to hold out for a GTO that is a color you can live with. A same-color repaint is a lot less labor intensive and will save you $$$, but will still be expensive. In today's depressed market, you will be money ahead to buy a car that does not need a repaint. You could spend 20k on a decent goat needing freshening, or 25-30k on one that is ready to go.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2011, 09:10 PM
 
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Originally Posted by geeteeohguy View Post
Painting a classic car is THE most expensive part of a restoration these days. In California, a "driver quality" paint job that is a complete color change costs around 10,000 dollars. Show quality is about twice that. My suggestion is to hold out for a GTO that is a color you can live with. A same-color repaint is a lot less labor intensive and will save you $$$, but will still be expensive. In today's depressed market, you will be money ahead to buy a car that does not need a repaint. You could spend 20k on a decent goat needing freshening, or 25-30k on one that is ready to go.


You also have to take in accout the color of the interior. Will it match the color you want to paint the car.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2011, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the very helpful information.

Do you guys know if a Hard Top with that soft vinyl stuff on it (sorry, not sure what it is called) can be removed and finished like a painted Hard Top? I actually found a local guy with a 66 with mirror like finish but it has that soft top which I really don't like.

You said you could find a GTO ready to go for under $30? I could only find one like that and it literally sold hours before I called. Please let me know of any Black, Gold or Dark Blue HT/Coupe 66 or 67 GTOs you know of that are that cheap. I would prefer the 4 speed, but an auto id fine if the car look good. Matching #s aren't so important to me as I'll likely put a stronger motor in it or better yet, find one that already has one.

Thanks again for the info.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 04:29 AM
 
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I met a guy that had a 67 Vette 427 car, it had bubbles all over the hood, not bad, not perfect.. I told him the car is still awesome even in primer.. The car doesn't have to be perfect to attract attention. GTO is talking winning shows, others just can afford to show up.. Rust problems is more important than perfect bondo'd paint. Buy a rust free car and go from there if you can.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 05:09 PM
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Vinyl tops can be removed and paint can be applied. My vote is for no vinyl top and a one-color car. Not into the two tone look on '60's cars....looks great on '50's rides, tho'. You should have no problem finding a gold '66 or '67 GTO....it was a very popular color, and is still common on these years. As a plus, gold hides dirt and flaws really well, so you don't need to wash or detail as often!!
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 07:24 PM
 
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Hey Batman i am on Mi/Oh border,... with the guys, body and paint is by far the most expensive part of a resto, mine was all metal and original paint and it still took a couple hundred hours labor to smooth it out before even thinking about painting it back to close to original color with body on. I will keep an eye out for cars in our area and post them for you.

1966 Tempest pictures by instg8ter - Photobucket

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 12:31 AM
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Hey Batman, it can be done. Until last weekend I'd never in my life painted a car before. Now my 69 GTO is black, and no longer has a vinyl top either. I did all the work including painting in my garage. I still have a lot of work left, wet-sanding the clear then buffing it back to a gloss, but it's work I can do. Be forewarned as others have said, it's a TON of work and will take many many hours. If you want to consider it seriously, then please buy yourself a set of Kevin Tetz's "Paintucation" videos. Those, and asking questions on Kevin's forum are all the education I got.

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the information everyone.

As for the paint, I would rather pay a professional\someone with experience.

I seen a GTO on ebay that the guy said he removed the vinyle top. I wouldn't had known if he didn't say it was done. Would paint matching (black) be a problem if they were to only remove the vinyle and paint\finish the top? The paint on the car I was looking at is perfect, but I hate that vinyle top.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 10:54 AM
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Well Batman, there are a couple of problems. There are many different shades of "black" and sometimes they can be hard to match exactly. Another problem would be the boundary between the top and the rest of the car. I don't remember exactly how the trim for a 66-7 vinyl top looks or where it is so I can't say for sure --- but if the vinyl top doesn't "end" on a natural body line then it would be very very hard to do "just the top" and make it look right. For example, on my 69 the bottom edge of the vinyl was along the bottom of the sail panel and created sort of a 'connection' line between the bottom of the rear window and the top of the quarter panel next to the trunk lid. With the top gone, there's no line there - just one big smooth expanse of sheet metal from the rear wheel opening all the way up the sail panel and onto the roof. Matching paint along that 'edge' then making the edge disappear is next to impossible. Plus, there were trim rivets surface welded into the metal there where the chrome top trim connected that I had to cut off then "work" to make that area perfectly smooth. That's guaranteed to "mess up" the paint that's next to where the rivets were.
Another thing you can run into is rust. It was common at the factory for them to put nothing under the vinyl in the way of protection, so lots of times when the vinyl comes off you find ugliness and rust that has to be dealt with. I was lucky - my car being built in Texas and having lived here its whole life - under the vinyl it was fine. I'd say that if you're REALLY set on nuking the top, then you should just assume that you're looking at a 100% all over paint job to make it look right. There's a chance you could be pleasantly surprised, but it's not a very big one.

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