2005 GTO Driveshaft - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-14-2008, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
 
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2005 GTO Driveshaft

My son broke the drive shaft in his 2005 GTO right behind the front yoke. His has the 6.0 L and 6 speed. The drive shaft in the car is a 1 piece aluminum shaft. I found a used one and it is a two piece. I noticed the shop manual shows a 2 piece. We bought the car used. Is this an after market driveshaft or did GM make 2 versions.
Any help here would be appreciated. May in the end get a new 1 piece steel unit made.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-14-2008, 07:03 PM
 
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That would be an after market. All GTO's come with the 2-piece drive shaft. Id stick with a 2-piece....too many reported problems with the single shafts.

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-15-2008, 12:37 PM
 
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Welcome to the forum gtodad.



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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-17-2008, 09:45 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtodad View Post
My son broke the drive shaft in his 2005 GTO right behind the front yoke. His has the 6.0 L and 6 speed. The drive shaft in the car is a 1 piece aluminum shaft. I found a used one and it is a two piece. I noticed the shop manual shows a 2 piece. We bought the car used. Is this an after market driveshaft or did GM make 2 versions.
Any help here would be appreciated. May in the end get a new 1 piece steel unit made.
Wow I'm surprised he managed to snap a 1 piece driveshaft!! It must have been poorly made. Was it on the weld? Is the car modded besides the driveshaft? The stock GTO's came with two piece driveshafts that not all that great themselves, if your son has this car modded with some serous horsepower I would put the coin into another one piece and or a driveshaft loop.



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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-03-2008, 11:20 PM
 
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The aluminum piece was built for low mass, but if you have some sticky tires, you will snap one. The 2 piece is heavy but very strong. The length of the one piece does lend itself to twisting some and are more critical to be perfectly balanced, which it should have been. Maybe a balance weight fell off and helped with the premature demise.

Just my 2 cents worth

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-04-2008, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by rnoswal View Post
The aluminum piece was built for low mass, but if you have some sticky tires, you will snap one. The 2 piece is heavy but very strong. The length of the one piece does lend itself to twisting some and are more critical to be perfectly balanced, which it should have been. Maybe a balance weight fell off and helped with the premature demise.

Just my 2 cents worth

Russ
Do you know how much force it would take to twist a drive shaft whether it's a one piece or two? Drive shafts are built based on hp/tq rating, speed, rpm, vehicle weight, etc. not just the mass of the vehicle. And even though our stock drive shafts may seem more heftier than an aluminum one it is more proned to failure because of the rubber donuts and the carrier bearing. But with all things mechanical they do fail at some point and his did. Why? Who knows.

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-04-2008, 09:15 AM
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The only time I've seen a shaft fail is when it was damaged and/or dented by road debris first.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-05-2008, 07:26 AM
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get the 2 piece east texas muscle drive shaft. good to 800 rwhp.

just a slow pos
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-07-2008, 10:44 PM
 
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Well, you are right about the one piece vs two piece shafts. Usually it is the u-joint that fails first with either one, so a damaged shaft is the main cause for failure or a thrown balance weight. But not all aftermarket shafts are better quality, so hopefully he will check out the company and see what kind of hp/tq figures it should handle before buying.

Russ
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-27-2009, 11:09 PM
 
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200 Shot of Nitrous = snapped driveshaft ???

Quote:
Originally Posted by 6QTS11OZ View Post
Do you know how much force it would take to twist a drive shaft whether it's a one piece or two? Drive shafts are built based on hp/tq rating, speed, rpm, vehicle weight, etc. not just the mass of the vehicle. And even though our stock drive shafts may seem more heftier than an aluminum one it is more proned to failure because of the rubber donuts and the carrier bearing. But with all things mechanical they do fail at some point and his did. Why? Who knows.
I am looking for a deal on a new or used ... but not abused straight drive shafts.

The lowest HP rating on one is 600 HP made by DriveShaft Shop Inc.

BMR makes them and here is what they say ....

The factory driveshaft in the GTO is the weakest part of the entire driveline. It's a two piece design that is only 2 inches in diameter and uses rubber mounts instead of u-joints. Not only do the rubber mounts contribute to wheelhop, they are notorious for failing on even slightly modified 6 speed cars.

I called around and was told that the GTO driveshaft is designed to be smoooooooth .. like on a Benz.. Obviously daddies little boy had an aftermarket straight shaft which can handle anywhere from 600 to 1000 HP.

That is why they are put on and they are expensive ... apparently because you have to buy the drive shaft and yoke adapter. So it is expensive, and I am just guessing that maybe the "stickey" rubber on the tires did not snap the shaft ... could be say a 100 .. or say 200 hundred shot of nitrous ???

By the way I a looking for site that sells the after market straight driveshaft. I will be putting in a Maggie with a 122 blower soon and I don't want my little goat to fall apart.

Have no clue what GM was thinking when they put in a whimpy two peice drive shaft ... from reading these posts .. I can see you people have no clue either ... well that's what you get when you want to save a buck $$$ and buy a poor man's Corvette ... Hey are the engineers at GM also covered by UAW bargaining agreement ... if so .. it would explain a lot ... what the "F" where they thinking?
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