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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
 
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A few questions...

How the hell do I change the battery in my remote? I thought it was the two screws, but that's just to hold the key to the remote. How do I pop this sucker open, and what battery does it use?
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 02:24 PM
 
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Those are the only screws there. ya may have to pry it open , but be careful not to beak it. (Looking at mine as I am writing this).
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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I've taken the screws out and the key falls out. The remote is still clamshelled together. I can't find a pry point to pop the two halves apart.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 03:25 PM
 
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I tried taking it apart just playing with it, but I couldn't figure it out. Didn't want to break it, I am sure that it is expensive to replace.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
 
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This isn't good news...
Quote:
Originally posted: A Wolf in Sheep's Clothing

***clipped for relative info***

Security system: This car has a well thought out, state of the art, security set up. There are the standard remote keyless entry buttons on the key. The ignition key will also work the driverís door (there is no lock cylinder on the passenger side), but there is a separate key for the glove box, and no lock cylinder for the trunk. You can program the remote to unlock either the driverís door or both. The ignition/door key is a curious looking ďstickĒ integral with the remote transmitter with some grooves carved in the key surface. There is a transducer in the ignition key that sends a coded signal to the computer to open the door(s) and allow starting. If the wrong key is stuck in the ignition, the vehicle is disabled by the computer until the correct key is used to re-enable the system, or if a door lock cylinder is turned without the proper key or remote signal, the car is disabled. One downside is that the battery that powers the key transmitter is non-replaceable, and you must purchase a new key after the life expectancy of about 5 years. The manual says it costs more than a normal key, but I havenít gotten a price on one yet. Two keys come with the vehicle. The only way this car will be stolen is to steal the key first, or drag the whole thing up on a trailer with a winch, and my insurance premiums happily reflect this. Insurance savings alone should pay for new keys in five years if you still have the car.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 04:25 PM
 
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When I bought mine the Salesman told me they were non-servicable and cost around $150.00 ea. That kinda hurt...
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 09:34 PM
 
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Platinum-plated titanium nitride laser-etched keys?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadsbury
When I bought mine the Salesman told me they were non-servicable and cost around $150.00 ea. That kinda hurt...
I heard it was $300, but if what I heard was for a full "set" of two, then $150 each might be dead-on.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 09:44 PM
 
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My luck is by the time the battery dies GM will say "We haven't made those in years. Bummer".

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 09:47 PM
 
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That correct its about $150 for a new key, and key fob, but I'm sure you can replace the battery.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C5ORGTO
That correct its about $150 for a new key, and key fob, but I'm sure you can replace the battery.
Let me know if you figure out how to open the damn thing. I was thinking about trying to *mod* the thing to use a higher voltage battery to increase signal strength.
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