GTO over heating and smoking. - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-30-2010, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
 
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GTO over heating and smoking.

Yesterday while running errands I started to have issues. I was sitting at a stop sign when I started to smell something burning, it didn't exactly smell like oil but it smelled. After the smell white smoke came out from the front right fender well for only a second or two. The car drove just fine after that and I parked it and checked the fluids in it and they were fine. I went into a store then came back out and drove it to another store, it still drove fine with no problems. After that I got back on the road home and after about 2 minutes I heard the dash beep at me and noticed the temperature was rising again, and a little more smoke came out. I pulled over, and checked the coolant level. I figured the water pump went out. When I pulled up the dip stick for the coolant it was covered in red mud??? never seen that before. I put some water in there and let it idle for a second. the temperature slowly started to rise so i shut it off. I called a tow truck and had it sent to the local chevy dealership, where they're going to fix the problem change all the fluids and inspect the car for any other bull****. Does anyone know what this could be? The dealership is going to fix it but I'm still curious to know.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-30-2010, 12:53 PM
 
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The coolent is supposed to be red. The gunk in theresounds normal, its basicly stop leak.

Easy things to check with overheating are leaks, low fluid, bad t-stat, radiator cap(since your an LS2 based on your avitar pic), and clogs. T-stat would be top of the list for me.

Cooling systems are very basic. Coolent is powered by H2O pump, circulation is controled by t-stat, and coolent is cooled by the radiator.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-30-2010, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
 
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so it should be something relatively simple then right? I think it might of just had a leak because I'd pour water in and water would start pouring out from right underneath. It was raining when I was doing this so I wasn't sure.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-30-2010, 06:30 PM
 
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could be simple, unless it got too hot, then it could be a disaster. once the coolent gets too hot, it starts to boil and the gas bubbles will cuase hot spots that can cuase heads to warp.

lets hope it didn't get too hot

and yes, T stat has been the problem for me several times, and once i lost a belt
the red muddy crusty stuff could also be from useing tap water in the coolant. it's always best to use demineralized water in the cooling system. also, think about the deposits the minerals in Tap water could be leaving in the jackets.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-30-2010, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
 
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just got off the phone with the dealership. They said my radiator is bad, one of the seems busted so they have to replace it. And Radiator isn't considered power-train so my warranty isn't going to help out. 900 bucks, ouch.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-30-2010, 07:13 PM
 
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Don't know if you are able to install a new radiator yourself, takes just a few tools. Here is link for a new radiator Ron Davis aluminum radiators for racing, offroad, performance street car, and other custom applications
This will save you a few hundred dollars

BOM with SLP strut bar, Svede CAI, BC racing struts and shocks, MMR GT1 19s black, W/T splitter, GMM shifter with lou's short stick, JHP spoiler, Kooks LT with JBA exhaust, NSSP cam, ported intake and tb, GForce toe links, DSS alxes.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-30-2010, 07:17 PM
 
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Ya, i'd really try doing it yourself, or getting some buddies to come over with a case of beer! its a bit tricky at first, but i't only held in by some snaps lol.

or worst case, pay a buddy to help you out!
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-31-2010, 12:05 AM
 
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the red gunk that is in there is a common problem, I worked at Chevy for a while and i would see a car every couple days that had that problem.basically that happens when the coolant gets old and needs to be changed, or somehow contaminated..I would NOT install a new radiator until you flush the whole system entirely, what happened to you other one is probably the gunk clogged enough valleys in the radiator to cause pressure to build and bust the side tank on it, so there would be no point in installing a new radiator unless you flush it out...I would drain the entire system with the old radiator still in, run water through the radiator cap with the return hose to the radiator unhooked so the water does not recirculate....run the motor at an idle and let it pump the fluid out while continually keeping a hose in the radiator cap so it has fluid still going through..run it for a bit while watching that the temp does not get too hot..if it does let it cool down and continue if its not completely clear once you see no more gunk than replace the radiator...i dont think there is any problem with using non GM coolant unless you warranty states it...i would personally do this on my own so you know the system is clean..if you just go ahead and replace a radiator without a proper cleaning you run a good chance of this happening again or worse (Heater Core)...Sorry for the novel just wanted to throw in my 2 cents..Good Luck
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