key won't turn! - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-06-2008, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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key won't turn!

I've NEVER had this problem. I take my car to a transmission and clutch shop to have a new clutch installed and I get a call back a couple hours later saying they can't start the car because the key won't turn. Is this a scam to try and get more service done, or could they have accidentally done something to cause this?
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-06-2008, 06:30 PM
 
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common problem on the new GTO and hot weather. Lots of info including a fix see this thread LS1GTO.com Forums - How to: Ignition Cylinder removal and disassembly w/ pics!

Bill Strobel
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Fayetteville, NC
1965 GTO Nightwatch Blue/Aqua
2005 GTO Quick Silver/Red

Do It Right or Don't Do It At All
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-06-2008, 06:30 PM
 
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What are you driving, or not driving as of now? Classic, late model?
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-06-2008, 06:58 PM
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Excellent how to post! Many have reported this problem, you're not alone. If the car is under warranty, let the dealer handle it.

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-07-2008, 06:51 PM
 
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Mine done the same, I took mine apart lubed it up with General Purpose greese no more problems. The dealer just made a new key for me and kicked me in the butt and said it was good.



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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 05:38 AM
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Weight on a key chain could in time cause problems with the key cylinder, or a wearing of the key itself. All those keys many have dangling on the hoop adds weight. When the key is in the cylinder the weight of all those other keys and or other items on the key chain is pulling down on the key fob and putting pressure on the key in the cylinder. All the added weight can cause a wearing problem inside the cylinder, and or cutting a grove or deep scratches in the key. To avoid this possible problem, only have the car's keys on that chain.

The best choice for lube in the cylinder is graphite. Graphite is a dry lube and bonds to metal surfaces causing a slick surface. Graphite is available in spray, and powder. I would use spray and not powder in a cylinder. The powder will cause a packing action if used too heavy. Any type of grease can be easily transfered to your pants pockets, and lint, and dirt will find its way into the cylinder sticking to grease. This in time will cause a gunky build up. WD-40 and a like will attract lint as well in time.

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 08:22 AM
 
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Weight on a key chain could in time cause problems with the key cylinder, or a wearing of the key itself. All those keys many have dangling on the hoop adds weight. When the key is in the cylinder the weight of all those other keys and or other items on the key chain is pulling down on the key fob and putting pressure on the key in the cylinder. All the added weight can cause a wearing problem inside the cylinder, and or cutting a grove or deep scratches in the key. To avoid this possible problem, only have the car's keys on that chain.

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The best choice for lube in the cylinder is graphite. Graphite is a dry lube and bonds to metal surfaces causing a slick surface. Graphite is available in spray, and powder. I would use spray and not powder in a cylinder. The powder will cause a packing action if used too heavy. Any type of grease can be easily transfered to your pants pockets, and lint, and dirt will find its way into the cylinder sticking to grease. This in time will cause a gunky build up. WD-40 and a like will attract lint as well in time.
In our lock cylinders the graphite only lubes the tumbers not the actual part that causes the problem. Graphite does not get behind the cylinder where the pin and cylinder contact. I used graphite on mine and still had the same problem until I took it apart and seen what the problem was, it was the pin in the lock cylinder binding causing the key to not turn at times. I've done mine and 6QTS11OZ i guess his feel alittle better too after we took care of his.



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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 08:36 AM
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If there is a mechanical problem, and if I am thinking this right the pin is catching, and binding? It would need more than some lube. I would tend to think in time, the problem would resurface. The grease will mask the problem and cause a temporary fix until the grease eventually dissipates causing the catching again. Unless of course the binding friction from the pin to the cylinder elongates the hole? Thats just my guess.

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 10:23 AM
 
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If there is a mechanical problem, and if I am thinking this right the pin is catching, and binding? It would need more than some lube. I would tend to think in time, the problem would resurface. The grease will mask the problem and cause a temporary fix until the grease eventually dissipates causing the catching again. Unless of course the binding friction from the pin to the cylinder elongates the hole? Thats just my guess.
You are correct the pin is catching. Most people including me only have this problem when it is very hot out. Metal expands at differant rates. People have been taking a dremal and reworking the hole, some the problem comes back. I think one way of fixing the problem is making the cylinder or pin out of a different metal. The factory put grease in there but not enough. Greese helps lubes things, lowers the friction and keep them from gauling just like your wheel bearings.




Last edited by GM4life; 08-08-2008 at 10:33 AM.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-09-2008, 06:33 AM
 
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what's the mileage on your cars with stuck lock cylinders? mine was filthy from machine shop debris and that caused some tumblers to bend/break but i never had a problem out of the lock not turning with the key properly inserted.
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