Just purchased a '66, it needs a steering column- anyone have any recommendations for a tilt column?- thanks
i really like the idea of going black with the column too- good adviceMany options on aftermarket tilt columns along with prices. I recently purchased, but have not installed, a 32" tilt column that had been on sale in the sale catalog put out by OPGI $176.99 plus shipping.
This is not a bolt-in fit, so you need the parts to make it work - which is not a big issue if you can do some fabricating. Little bit of a learning curve as I have never done the conversion, but wanted a tilt. The column is 2" in diameter and does not have any factory column mounts. You can purchase aftermarket collars that are said to work. You will also need a mounting collar at the base of the tilt column as it goes through the floor. My '68 has a factory 2-piece collar/plate that gets screwed down to the floor and then has 2 bolts you tighten up to clamp the factory column. The catch is that the factory clamp is designed with an angle to match the factory steering column angle as it passed through the floor. An aftermarket collar will be able to be tilted for fitment, but looks a little "cheap" in appearance. I want to retain my factory set-up, so I am working on a fix that will allow me to use it and clamp down on the tilt's 2" column. I have not included this fix just yet - still have to fabricate it along with an upper mounting attachment.
The column comes with a GM flat wire connector end. Won't work for my '68. I think I saw an adapter that can be used, but it's more money and I have my own fix for this.
Pic #1 - First, the column comes with billet levers for the hot rod applications. So I purchased aftermarket repops like original.
Pic #2 - shows original '68 column alongside the tilt column.
Pic #3 - The column shaft is called a "double-D" versus the splined end of the factory shaft. You are going to need the1" x 3/4" double-D swivel joint (OPGI price $18.99) that fits on the end of the tilt column's 1" double-D shaft end and will join the 3/4" double-D extension shaft that you are going to insert into the hollow factory lower column extension having the rag joint connector on its end.
Pic #4 - The factory lower column extension having the splined joint and rag joint connector that attaches to the steering box rag joint. Note the 2 light colored dots on the lower end extension. This is a plastic injection point that is used to inject plastic into the hollow end and spills into a notch ground around the factory double-D shaft and secures the double-D shaft to the hollow end once it cures. In the event of a front-end collision, the plastic will break away and the double-D shaft will slide down into the hollow lower tube as it collapses rather than be forced up and into the driver's chest.
I measured the overall length of the extension shaft so I would know what length to make my new extension shaft. Mine measured 19 3/8". You will use this number later.
Two injection holes on each side. Get a drill bit the same size as the holes and drill into the plastic until you hit the solid steel of the double-D shaft. Then knock the double-D shaft out by pounding the shaft out of hollow tube from the bottom side. It'll pound out fairly easy.
Pic #5 - At top, your new 3/4" double-D shaft (which has to be purchased and then cut to size) fitted into the 3/4" double-D end of the swivel joint. Below that is the hollow lower extension tube you just knocked free from the factory double-D shaft. At bottom is the factory swivel joint and double-D shaft minus the lower extension tube. The double-D shaft I purchased through Speedway Motors was 18" - $12.99. I then inserted the double-D shaft into the swivel joint as seen at the top. I then set the lower hollow connector, as seen in the picture, next to the double-D shaft and at about the same 19 3/8" as measured for the factory lower extension. Only about 4" of the factory double-D shaft goes into the extension, but I gave myself a little extra so I could slide it up or down to make sure it mated to my rag joint on the steering box. So I needed to cut down the new 18" shaft to 14 1/2". I made my mark on the shaft and cut it at 14 1/2".
Pic #6 - The completed lower extension with the new double-D shaft inserted into the lower hollow end like factory. When I install the tilt and connect it to the steering box rag joint, I will drill a small hole through the double-D shaft where the plastic had been injected and use a hollow roll pin to go through the hole and secure the 2 pieces together.
Other items needed to be worked out. The wiring connector end is of the flat type. My '68 uses a curved wire connector. I removed all the wires/brass connectors from my curved wire connector and have new brass connector ends that I will solder on the tilt column wires (after cutting the flat connector off) and then reinsert them back into my curved wire connector so it will plug into my factory wiring harness.
The column is a brushed stainless steel. I sanded the column with a 400 grit paper, cleaned with lacquer thinner, and primed with a metal etch primer and let dry. Next I gave it a coat of Rustoleum Ultra High Heat black used for barbecue grilles. I'd say the color is about a 60 % gloss and not a flat, not high gloss black. Put on a couple coats and it looks good.
This is not a complete write-up or finished installation as I will do a complete write-up once installed in my '68. But it does give you an idea of what can be used and what it may take to install. In the end, I'll get it all sorted out and have the tilt steering column I wanted without a big price tag. I am also using a Grant steering wheel with their adapter kit and horn button to finish off the look I am after. 👍
thank you- sounds like some wisdom there- I would have assumed 66 and 67 were the same pieceAnd despite the similarities of the interior, 66 and 67 columns are NOT the same. They are completely different and will not interchange without major modification.
And like Scott said, 64-66 tilt columns are rare and command big dollars.