Rear suspension & adjustability - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
 
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Rear suspension & adjustability

I have two questions, the first is just a general question for everybody.

1: Replacing the stock springs with lowering springs. Is it manditory to replace the rear outer bushing with the camber adjustable bushing? I would think yes.

2: Lovell stocks the adjustable outer rear control arm bushings that can be placed in the inner position as well for toe adjustment. Now Pedders say their adjustable bushing can only be placed in the outer positon because if placed in the inner position the CV axles can be damaged. Whats the differance between the two? What makes the Lovells adjustble bushing so special that you can use it in the inner position without any damage? I thought we allready have a toe link adjuster for the rear.



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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 10:45 AM
 
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Call Frank @ Rocksand Racing. He is an expert on GTO suspension.

2003 Corvette Z06 - MGW shifter, Corsa X pipe, Corsa Xtreme exhaust, Texas Speed long tubes w/o cats, PowerStop rotors/pads, Conti DWS tires, C6Z51 F&R sways, C5R headlights, tuned

04 GTO - sold
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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Usally I would ask DMS(Mike) suspension questions. I wanted to ask on the forum so that other members can be informed too.



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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-27-2010, 07:21 AM
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You shouldn't need adjustable bushings with drop springs that aren't too radical. I think you were going with the 20mm drop. I would replace the control arm bushings with fixed ones tho. As a matter of fact I'd avoid all of the adjustable ones as they seem to have troubles. The stock soft rubber ones can allow the wheels to c ock a little and affect the camber. With my 20mm drop my rear camber was -1.2* which is within spec and I believe due to the control arm bushings. Unfortunately to do the outer control arm bushings you need to drop the subframe on each side as you do them and you just replaced your subframe bushings . IMHO anybody contemplating subframe bushings should plan the control arm ones at the same time. They will add a lot of "control" feel to the back end and help with tire wear. The inners especially have voids that make them mushy. You need to make up some kind of press to get them out and heat them with a propane torch or heat gun to get them out.

inner bushing on the left




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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-27-2010, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks again svede1212. Yes I'm doing that 20mm drop, looks like I'm going with the fixed bushings then. Also I have to come up with a rig that you created to press those bushings out, cool. It was my mistake to replace the x-member bushings without doing the control arm bushings, I didn't realize I had to drop them until after I read the service manual on replacing the control arm bushings.



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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-27-2010, 01:08 PM
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There's a "lip" on the bushings on both ends. I cut the lip off the side I was going to push thru and also took a drill and drilled a few holes thru the outer bushings to make them easier to get out. Just be sure you don't fudge up the inside of the control arm where the bush goes. I cleaned up the insides with a drill and some steel wool wadded around a speed bit and then painted the subframe as the heat cooked the paint off. Just don't get the metal red hot or it will weaken it. I went to the hardware store and taking my new bushing with me found the pipe coupler that it would go thru, a bolt (harden would be best) and a bunch of washers, a big one for one end and several that would just pass thru for the other. An impact is your friend

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 06:45 PM
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Most of the time with a 20 mm drop, you do not have to add camber adjustability. but if you are and drag racing, then you will. the tool svede1212 made works well.

If you are doing the outside, you really ought to do the inside. The inside LCA bushing, is borderline useless and allows a huge amount of movement.

mike
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks, I'll be going with solid bushings then. I'm not into drag racing, but I do hit the canyons quit a bit and road course.



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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GM4life View Post
Thanks, I'll be going with solid bushings then. I'm not into drag racing, but I do hit the canyons quit a bit and road course.
Here is a direct link to the Pedders EP7023 bushings.



You may also want to consider getting 4 nuts for the LCA bolts. GM says to replace them:

11094256 GTO FR/RR Control Arm TTY Nut replaces nut # 92138178 (2 FR & 4 REAR)

We have them or you can get them from GM

thanks
mike
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ok thanks. The rear control arm bushings are pressed in. How about the front lower control arms inner and rear RR bush? Do I have to make a special tool for those too? I don't want to make many trips to the parts store to make tools for different bushings



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