Fender lip rolling for 285/295 tire size - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
 
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Fender lip rolling for 285/295 tire size

just purchased an easwood company tool to roll my rear fender lips to fit 285. it should be here within a week. do you guys have any pointers to do the job right the first time? i hear i have to heat it up pretty good so the paint does not crack.

here is a link with instructions on how to do it.
http://www.rollyourfender.com/instruction.html

i made a cut in the middle of the fender on the lip, seen in pic below. by cutting the lip halfway, so it does not bind in the middle when you roll the fender, and this way the lip will be able to roll more without much pressure on the fender body and will lower the pressure on paint cracking.


so here is the deal, i will just use it for 2 rear wheels, if someone is interested i can sell this tool to them for 220 after i'm done. i paid 250, so you save some money as well.
eastwood company fender lip roller tool for sale

Last edited by firebird; 05-27-2011 at 10:17 PM.
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 01:50 AM
 
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I'd be willing to rent it from you once your done. No interest in buying it though.

<-- Guess which ones quicker?.....Nope! Not even close.
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
 
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if you were closer to me i would rent it to you, but paying shipping and then once again if i sell it to someone, too much hassle and i will be loseing more money.

this way if you get it, you can sell it to someone else and you will end up spenging less money than by renting it.
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 08:50 AM
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Don't heat the paint up too much or you'll blister it. Really nice and warm like it was sitting in the sun is good. Don't try to do too much at once. Adjust the roller angle in very small increments and roll back and forth a few times before adjusting it some more. Slightly rewarm before the next pass. After getting my car up on jack stands and getting both wheels off it took me about 45 minutes to do both sides.

I would not try to take it flat. The farther you go the more you run the risk of pushing the fender out, cracking the paint and wrinkling things. You want to get it rolled between the 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock position on the fender. Getting the lip up on about a 45* angle should be enough. You can test the fit by taking off your lower shock bolt and removing the springs. Put the wheel on and articulate the wheel up and down to check for static rub. As the wheel goes up it tips in so that's why you don't need to flatten the lip.

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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
 
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cool, thank you, i will keep this in mind. the last thing i wanna do is damage the outside fender. i was also thinking of making one cut in the middle with a sheet saw, this way it will roll easier and further without much pressure. and, the lip will not wrinkle and push the fender out. i think it's a good idea, what say you.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by firebird View Post
cool, thank you, i will keep this in mind. the last thing i wanna do is damage the outside fender. i was also thinking of making one cut in the middle with a sheet saw, this way it will roll easier and further without much pressure. and, the lip will not wrinkle and push the fender out. i think it's a good idea, what say you.
I like the thinking but I wouldn't do it. You may find that it will make a crease on the fender where the cut is as there would be a weak spot there when you apply outward pressure. Just take your time and don't over do it and you'll do fine.

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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-26-2011, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
 
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i am just waiting on the tool to arrive now, should be here today. i updated the first post with a pic and i did make a small cut, half of the lip. the job seems like it's going to be an easy one and shouldn't take much time either.

looking at the toe, it seems like it's adjustable, not sure if this is the oem camber adjuster or it came with the vehicle. if someone can please look and see if they have the same bolt i would appriciate it. if i need further camber adjustment, i hope not but will see after the lip has been rolled, it should be very simple. pics below.

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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-26-2011, 12:48 PM
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That's the toe adjuster. I see you did it anyways. I'd watch the outside of the fender very closely when you're doing it. After you start to "roll it up" it's going to push outward on the fender. You've created an uneven resistance with a weak point in the middle by doing that cut. Good luck.

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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2011, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
 
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Ladies and gents, the lips are gone, not 45 degrees as some of you state, but flat out. no damage to the outside, the paint seems ok. i expected to be a lot easier. took about a bit more than 2 hours for both wheels. highly satisfied. dont have time to test it yet......

But the tool is for sale, anyone interested let me know 220 shipped. save some money. no damage to the tool at all. few marks and scratches on the roller but it seems like it's in brand new condition.
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2011, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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also if you want the lip flat out, i made 4 5 cuts on the lip. you see if you dont cut it, there needs to be more pressure on the lip, and another thing is you can not get the lip flat out without cutting it because the steel will not strech where it arches on the fender. you can only roll it so much.
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