Lots of power, How wide should i go? - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-03-2012, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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Lots of power, How wide should i go?

So my GTOs in the shop right now, and when its done it should be making around 600 maybe more (edit: wrote it wrong before... currently i already have 500 to the wheels) to the wheels...
I'm buying new wheels and tires and I want to keep the wheels size at 18" but how wide can/should i go with them to handle that power?

My 2005 GTO

Last edited by hockey499s; 08-05-2012 at 05:48 AM. Reason: Right now its 499rwhp with only a mild tune on it.. After the work probably over 6ish maybe more
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-03-2012, 02:41 PM
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You're going to have to go wider than that. Mini-tub is really the only answer. Yes you can go 275-295 with the right suspension and fender work and the right wheels but that still wouldn't hold. I think you'd need 315-325s. What are you having done?

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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-04-2012, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
 
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Currently i already have done the cams, long tube kooks, forged front end (pistons, rods ect.) tvs 2300 magna charger (currently running about lbs of boost with a mild tune),
I'm going to be upgrading the pulley to about 11-12lbs of boost, upgrading the fuel system, probably getting upgraded cams (current cams were from before the s/c), and a performance tune.
Ill also be upgrading my suspension. Probably to this.. This is a quote i got for parts..

"BC Coilovers F&R with upgraded 8K/10k spring package: $999.99

X41771-LOVELLS POLY STRUT MOUNTS or ROADSAFE RUBBER MOUNTS (YOUR CHOICE). POLY WILL BE SENT UNLESS RUBBER IS REQUESTED.
X82047-LOVELLS FRONT RADIUS ROD BUSHING
N81099-LOVELLS REAR RADIUS ROD BUSHINGS
N51233-LOVELLS FRONT CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS
N92350-LOVELLS CROSSMEMBER MOUNTS
N61483-LOVELLS REAR CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS (1 KIT)
X63109-LOVELLS REAR CAMBER ADJUSTER
N92616-LOVELLS DIFFERENTIAL INSERT
LOVELLS SHOCK BUSHING
LOVELLS STRUT BOLTS
LOCK NUTS
Normal Retail Price $770.88...$706.00 Shipped...No Substitutions
IF BC RACING FRONT AND REAR COILOVERS ARE ORDERED AT THE SAME TIME...GET A $99.00 OFF.

Strut tower braces will not clear superchargers, thats why I havent included them

Total Package price with all incentives $1606.99"

As for the wheels, I'm buying brand new everything, wheels and tires... So should i just look for 18x10.5 for the rear and 18x9.5 for the front if the tires need to be that wide?

My 2005 GTO
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-04-2012, 09:06 AM
 
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18/275 rears-18/245 fronts I would also look at driveline and clutch Word of advise I have S/C motor 528RWP with stock tires and driveline it does not hook but I will probably not break the driveline, if it hooks you will break stock driveline as big HP finds the weakest part. Get poly motor and trans mounts if you do not have them, the short motor mounts will allow a BMR strut brace to fit. Good luck with project, should be a beast.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-04-2012, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
 
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18/275 rears-18/245 fronts I would also look at driveline and clutch Word of advise I have S/C motor 528RWP with stock tires and driveline it does not hook but I will probably not break the driveline, if it hooks you will break stock driveline as big HP finds the weakest part. Get poly motor and trans mounts if you do not have them, the short motor mounts will allow a BMR strut brace to fit. Good luck with project, should be a beast.
Thanks a lot, i will look into that.
Also you think that the 275 will be wide enough to grip/handle the power it'll be making?

(when it's all done ill post up pics/vids. its finishing up getting painted right now, range rover fuji white, with black accents)

My 2005 GTO
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-04-2012, 09:37 AM
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Sounds like a torque monster build. I don't think 9.5" will fit on the front. 8.5" seems to be the most common and 10.5 in the back is going to be really iffy too. Most go with 8.5" and 9.5". You can't get the tire back there that needs the 10.5" anyways. Getting a 10.5" with a offset that could stand a slim chance of working would probably take a custom wheel or using the coilovers adjusted to a jacked up 4x4 height.

I see you're getting the rear adjustable camber kit and coil overs. Not a big fan. Unless you're autocrossing it and know how to set it up. I'd rather just pick a spring height and go with it. If you have like a 20mm drop you don't need the rear adjustable camber, have the alignment challenges, the issues of them and can stick with the fixed bushings. It's your car but you're going for the extreme and that doesn't always work.

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-04-2012, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by SWGOAT View Post
18/275 rears-18/245 fronts I would also look at driveline and clutch Word of advise I have S/C motor 528RWP with stock tires and driveline it does not hook but I will probably not break the driveline, if it hooks you will break stock driveline as big HP finds the weakest part. Get poly motor and trans mounts if you do not have them, the short motor mounts will allow a BMR strut brace to fit. Good luck with project, should be a beast.
Exactly. I'd plan on at least $3,000-$3.500 in driveline parts. Clutch, drive shaft, stubs and half shafts would be my advise. I'm running everything except the half shafts. It's mostly been a money issue to upgrade but I consider the half shafts to be kind of like a fuse and break before the rear end. I picked up some used ones as a precaution if I break one at the track.

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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-04-2012, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
 
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Sounds like a torque monster build. I don't think 9.5" will fit on the front. 8.5" seems to be the most common and 10.5 in the back is going to be really iffy too. Most go with 8.5" and 9.5". You can't get the tire back there that needs the 10.5" anyways. Getting a 10.5" with a offset that could stand a slim chance of working would probably take a custom wheel or using the coilovers adjusted to a jacked up 4x4 height.

I see you're getting the rear adjustable camber kit and coil overs. Not a big fan. Unless you're autocrossing it and know how to set it up. I'd rather just pick a spring height and go with it. If you have like a 20mm drop you don't need the rear adjustable camber, have the alignment challenges, the issues of them and can stick with the fixed bushings. It's your car but you're going for the extreme and that doesn't always work.

Thats not definitely the suspension package i am going to get, just the main one I'm looking at as of now.. If you have any package you would suggest please lmk...

Also what tire sizes would you recommend for the 18x8 (or18x8.5) and 18x9.5 wheels? Also what offset?

Thanks!

My 2005 GTO
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-04-2012, 03:59 PM
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For the front most people get 235s and a some have finessed 245s. In the back you can go up to 265-275 with the proper fender work, rolling or cutting of the outer fender and a hammer massage on the inside fender. The offset for the front is around 35-40mm. If you get too close to the strut you can use up to 1/4" spacer to bring the wheel back out a bit so a little too much offset is better than too little. In the back a 9.5" would like to be in the 50-55mm offset range.

Just my observation but most guys with coilovers play with them a bit because they can but because your alignment changes they end up leaving it at whatever. Picking a height and sticking with it is by far the simplest. For handling and ride I like the 20mm drop. It lowers the center of gravity a little over 3/4", makes the tire look like it's in the right position looking from the side and still gives a forgiving ride.

There's not a lot of travel in the suspension as it is and if you take away a lot you either have to have a really stiff spring or you'll be slamming the bump stops on rough roads especially with weight. You also can use stock spec aftermarket dampers with 20mm. If you drop more than that you need a "shorter" set.

Also with 20mm drop the rear camber will still be fine. With a coilover "dropped" you need the adjustable camber control arm bushings and have the pain of adjusting them. Then if you raise it you need to adjust them again.

Beware of some people's claims that run larger. Yes they may have done it but something I found out a long time ago is the builds on these cars is different and what fits on one won't on another especially when you're pushing the envelope.

Kollar has the 20mm drop kit. It's even a bit cheaper and then you can pick whatever dampers you want. JMHO

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-05-2012, 01:18 AM
 
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Hockey first thing you gotta do is figure out what you wanna do with this car. Drag racing road racing. Either way if your gonna be beating the balls off the car. the main upgrades would be the drive line. If your going for the occasional beat around town than I would say the drive train could survive. Learn the car and find out what mods will work for what you wanna do with the car. This way you are not spending money over and over on mods. You already put a cam in it and now your gonna do this again when you go maggie. First thing I would check is to see if you cam you have will work with the maggie.------danfigg
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