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70 GTO Died on me can't figure out the problem

5K views 23 replies 4 participants last post by  Too Many Projects 
#1 ·
1970 Pontiac GTO
400 6.6L 4BBL
HEI Ignition System

Alright I backed my car out of the garage 1 week ago and put it into drive and she died on me. My initial response was that it was the fuel pump that went out since it started up and ran I figured it was running off the remaining fuel in the carb and cylinders. After replacing the pump I realize that I am not getting a spark now. I replaced the internal coil tonight and still nothing. So I am out of ideas now as I dont think its the rotor. The car turns over with no problem and it sounds healthy theres just no spark at all.
 
#5 ·
It would help to know your location. There is a guy local to me with, literally, thousands of parts and may have what you want. Shipping on a bumper could be spendy...:(
 
#6 ·
Alright gents I have replace rotor, coil and fuel pump and im still getting nothing but learning more and more yay. I am getting 12v to the hot wire on the coil and am still getting no spark. I replaced the rotor as it did have a little brown and some ware on it. I am still getting no spark. Just a recap I went to take her out about a week ago and it fired up and died on me in the garage, but I figured it was due to sitting for the past 2 weeks. I started her back up and she run like a champ as I backed her up. Then I put it in drive and silent night for the past week. It turns over and sounds healthy just the sparks missing.
 
#8 ·
If the coil you replaced is the one in the cap, I am referring to the pickup coil down by the module. It has 2 tiny wires coming out of it and they flex every time the timing advances and break over time. You need to get in there with a needle nose pliers and see if one of them pulls away with slight pressure. It looks like this;
 
#10 ·
Well. everything is inside the distributer that is needed for spark. If you've replaced the coil, cap and rotor, it has 12v+ and has ground, it should create spark if the rotor is turning with the crank. If not, then there are only two parts left, the pickup coil, and the module.

You DID put the ground strap back on under the coil when you replaced it, right?
 
#14 ·
That's were they usually break. I've never tried soldering one. Unfortunately, you need to remove the distributor and pull the shaft to replace it so I guess if you pull the dizzy and can't get it to solder, you're halfway to the replacement....;)
 
#18 ·
^^^ What he said. To simplify further, I rotate the engine so the rotor points at a reference first, usually straight forward and then pull it out. I also have learned to leave the rotor on and mark the gear on the side the rotor is pointing to get the gear orientation back the same. I have had issues with the dizzy not wanting to drop back in the oil pump shaft after replacement and the gear seemed to be the problem. Just a little precaution to ease the work. You can do it.....;)
 
#19 ·
Well You could do it there way or LOL this way

I would crank the motor over to #1 TDC making sure the rotor is pointing
to the number one spark plug wire on the cap. also make sure that the number one piston is on the compression stroke.
and yes mark the distributor clearly so you can put it back in.
when you get ready to put the part in check the other parts you may need
as well like the distrubutor o-ring or gasket and vacumn advance
its a good time to check the wieghts and springs also.
once or while your rotating the engine over to number 1 TDC have the marks line up on the timing chain cover and the harmonic balancer set to 0.
take note of the rotation of your rotor button and once at 0 rotate the engine backwards keeping a eye on your rotor button just as it begins to move stop turning the engine. then look at your timing indicator this will
tell you how much play or slop you have in your timing chain. IF it was me
and its over 5-7 degrees I would change the timing chain set
I am not sure what the factory tolerances are but I dont like having a loose
chain. it makes it harder to set the timing properly. if the engine and chain
has alot of age to it and the chain is really bad once you replace it
the engine may start to smoke as it will build more compression than it has in a long time.
 
#22 ·
when i remove the retaining pin from the distributor to get the shaft off and have access to the pickup coil do I just want to use a punch and start smashing on it or is there a special way of doing it? I also noted that one side of it sticks out farther then the other.
 
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