The KB5 work continues this summer. Keeping me off my '68 Lemans build.
I took apart all 4 running lights found on the box body - 2 amber at top front and 2 red at top rear. These are the original glass "bee hive" lenses. De-rusted, new socket contacts & wires, new gaskets, and did some repairs to the lens retaining rings. All new screws. Used LED bulbs and they look & work great. You can see the rear ones in the first photo.
The rear box photo shows the original single brake light & running light in the upper left and the license plate location. Only 1 brake light was required back then. The original was too badly rusted to fix, so I purchased a plastic trailer light you see on small boat trailers. It has a clear side lens that allows light to shine on the license plate. In order to use the original red glass lens I modified a Bumble Bee can of chicken to house the lens and then fit over the plastic light housing. Made new gaskets to seal it up and used an LED 1157 bulb. Looks and works like factory. I tied the box running lights into the box's running lights so they all come on together.
In the same photo you can see the additional lights added to the bumper. The brackets came off a trailer (as in tractor-trailer) we were modifying. The trailer lights have rubber seals that go around the lights which snap in. I used them as well. Found that the 1951 Pontiac glass lens taillights from Speedway were a perfect fit, so ordered 4 of them. I also added a license plate bracket and LED lighting at the bumper which will hold the legal registered plate when the time comes.
Second pic is of the taillights. All 4 are wired together for running lights. The outside lights are wired up as the turn signals and the inside lights are wired up as the brake lights. The original brake light is tied into the lower brake lights so they work together.
The third pic is the interior lights I added on each side. These are LED panel lights that were take-off's from a box truck we updated at work. I wired the lights to a new switch in the original position behind the driver. I neatened the interior wiring by running it through 1/4" steel brake line tubing and then securing it to one of the box's frame members. I don't like the look of hanging wires and try to prevent any rubbing that would cause a short.
Fourth pic shows the steering box & arm. Along the way, the master cylinder, steering box, and steering arm have been replaced. The master cylinder was replaced with a larger truck unit from like a military 6 x 6 and bolted up correctly, but was not the right bore size for the KB5, so it took 2 legs to push on the pedal. I have the original one and am presently having it re-sleeved and rebuilt. The steering box needed to be "clocked," or rotated to the left a bit to raise the steering column up so you could get under the steering wheel - it was too low in its present position. I rotated the steering box by leaving the right lower bolt in place, inserted a size smaller grade 8 bolt in the middle hole, and elongated the left bolt hole about 1/2" so I could use the original bolt/nut. With the steering arm removed, I was able to center the worm gear inside the steering box - it was not done when the box was installed. The steering wheel would turn 2.5 turns left and 3.5 turns right. I centered this to be 3.0 turns each way and then installed the steering arm in place. Cleaned it all up and painted.
You will notice the green "tank" on the firewall. This is a remote brake fluid fill tank. The tank is attached to the master cylinder through a hydraulic hose which then has an O-ring type collar that goes between the opening of the master cyl where the cap screws on and a lip built into the special master cylinder cap. It gets sandwiched together when you tighten the cap. There is a groove around the cap's edge that has a hole in it that allows brake fluid to go down through the hose, through the O-ring collar, and then into the master cyl via the small hole in the cap. The brake fluid tank had a dip stick built into the top cap and the driver could unscrew the cap and read the fluid level much like a power steering cap. It has been de-rusted and cleaned and will be attached like factory when I get the rebuilt master cylinder back. The big "grey tank" is the oil filter/housing.
Last pic is the front turn signals. I rigged these up with amber 1157 bulbs using only the brighter element of the 1157. The old truck did not have front turn signals, so these running lights fit the bill. Can't miss them when they are flashing.
I wired up all the lights 1 wire at a time. Ran the rear light wires along the frame and up through the floor on the left drivers side. Put ends on, soldered, and shrink tubed each one. Up graded the turn signal controls for a 12 volt system using a unit from Speedway. I added a fuse box having spade type terminals and an electrical junction box. These old vehicles did not have fuse boxes. Many switches had a fuse/holder built into them and was part of the switch itself. I made the lights independent from each other so if the box lights blow out, you still have the rear running lights. If running lights go out, you still have box lights. Brake lights are also on a separate fused line.
Working on getting a 12 volt wiper system working - original used a vacuum motor and most parts are missing. Installing an original heater/fan as a non-original had been installed. Then I have to install a rebuilt/refurbished dash gauge cluster and firewall forward wiring harness - which I have. Then on to doing the brake system once I get the master cylinder.
Hope to have this truck completed by the Fall and then I can get back to work on my Lemans. Poor car is sitting under a cover and home to mud da*#$**#$**#$**#$*s.