1968 GTO Hideaway Doors - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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1968 GTO Hideaway Doors

I have a 1968 GTO with hideaway headlights. I'm having problems getting the chrome on the hideaway door to line up with the chrome on the grill. The doors always seem to be sagging a little. Is this normal or is there anyway I can get them to line up perfectly? I always switched them to electric. Thanks!
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 02:25 PM
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I don't have the answer, but i'm currently disassembling a hideaway car and just started the headlight area. If I can offer any advise once I have it all apart, I will.

Lots of parts with that hideaway option. I'm amazed at the engineering/design back then.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-22-2015, 10:30 AM
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first thing you need to do is check the doors with the engine running and the headlight switch obviously off. do the doors reach a fully closed position? if not, then you have a leak in the actuators (behind the grill). most common site is the rubber diaphragm. if rubber is good check the pots for pin holes especially if you have any rust spots. these are easy to repair. sand area down to bare metal then flow some 2 part epoxy over the pinholes. gorilla glue brand found in home depot is perfect.
if on the other hand the doors line up when the car is running and then sag after the car is turned off, you have a vacuum "storage" leak. check the tubing from the storage canister located on the fender well by the battery to your vacuum source. check for cracks, holes, etc. you should place 1 or 2 check valves on this tubing between the canister and the vacuum source (available from ames performance). if tubing checks out then you most likely have a leak in the storage canister. most common site is around the edges (rim) or around the plastic inlet at the top of the can. repair again with epoxy. A PIN HOLE IS ALL IT TAKES. I HAD TO BEAD BLAST THE CANNISTER, SEALED THE INLET WITH A RUBBER CAP, AND HELD IT UNDER WATER BEFORE I FOUND THE TINIEST STREAM OF BUBBLES. LITERALLY A PINHOLE.
if you have fixed the problem and the doors are slightly off I believe there is some "play" where the actuator arms bolt to the doors for final alignment
hope this helps. good luck, tom
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 04:31 PM
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Refreshing an older thread. I'm working on the hideaways on my "68 for the first time. On the photo i've attached, is there supposed to be a bushing in the hole on the bracket that the rod connected to the actuator rod first goes thru? I've seen a kit of parts but the i'm unable to discern if there is a bushing where i've described. Thanks for all input.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 08:33 PM
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Well, the troubles continue. Put new seals in the actuators. Both doors held for days, then all of sudden the passenger side slowly closes after shutting off the engine. Drivers side works and holds like a champ. Bought a new actuator from Ames and installed it. Same thing, door slowly closes. Then i read that a weak spring could be the cause. Sent the actuator back, put the old actuator back on, ordered a spring and just put it on. Door slowly closes. Before anyone indicates it might be hose leak, i've taken two 3" pieces of hose and blocked them off with a screw, closed the headlight door, and put the hoses on the ports. Door slowly closes. I blocked off the ports with the tips of my fingers, same problem. I don't know what the internals are in the actuator but if there is some kind of diaphragm that is there and is bad, blocking off both inlet and outlet should hold a vacuum. Only thing left i guess is to re-order the actuator i sent back and see if with the new spring it fixes the issue. I suppose the new seal isn't sealing well enough, or like was said, a pin hole in the actuator body. But again i want to reiterate, it did the same thing with a new actuator and the old spring. Has anyone had an unsolvable issue like this? Thanks for any and all input.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 04:30 PM
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submerse the actuator in a bucket of water.
seal off either inlet/outlet.
blow air into the other.
Reverse inlet/outlet and repeat.

That's GOTTA give you a clue to where the leak is...

I was able to seal my leak with 777 sealant.
rubber was wore out next to the shaft AND around the rubber/lip at the canister.
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