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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
 
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64 Tempest Custom Restoration

I am new to the forum and thouhgt I would post some pictures of the project I just started with my 15 year old son. This will be his first car and my first full restoration. Even though it says GTO on the title, its a 64 Tempest Custom. It has a 326 and automatic with power brakes.

We live near New Orleans and this was a "Katrina" car. The previous (2nd) owner bought the car to rebuild for his some, but after the storm he had other priorities. We plan to keep it a tempest, but we wil be modernizing it somewhat. My son is really into the pro touring cars and wants to put some of those trends into this car.

We have already purchased an LT1 from a 96 Trans Am and are on the lookot for a 4L60E automatic to replace the 326 and factory trans. He wants the Dakota Digital dash set to replace the gagues and Summit racing style buckets to replace the front bench seat. We will definitely be installing an aftermarket AC/Heat system to handle the Louisiana sumers.

We will be upgrading the suspension with a kit from Hotchkis or similar and replacing the brakes with power disk brakes at all 4 wheels. We wil also be installing a quick ration powere steering box. He wants a modern set of wheels thet resemble the wheels of the sixties. We will likely end up wit 18"x8.5" on all 4 wheels.

As for paint, he is leaaning toward a 2 tone paint job with black up to the top of the finders and silver above. We are just getting started and are hoping to have the car finished for "Crusin The Coast" next October (2010) in Mississippi.

Here are a few pictures:
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 10:11 PM
 
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With all of the rust showing in the pictures, PLEASE make sure to check the frame thouroughly! I have been restoring cars for 15 years, and where there is that much body rust, there is usually structural rust too. Many times it is not severe enough to be of concern so long as you blast the frame and recoat with a reputable product (we powdercoat all chassis parts).

Past that, looks like you guys have your work cut out for you! Sounds like a nice project though. I just see a lot of panels that will need to be replaced and hope you have experience with this or have someone that can lend a hand nearby when the time comes.

Happy Building!

Chris
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 10:53 PM
 
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welcome DC and son, always good to add another to the Tempest gang around here. Looks like you two will be getting many hours of bonding time. My best advise is break it into small tasks and complete them before moving to the next. That level of resto can seem overwhelming if you just start tearing it down randomly. Seeing as it was submerged (i am assuming) best course of action would be body off and frame to get dipped if the funds are there, that is the only way to get in the inner frame areas where most cars do not see moisture and yours has. second choice would be sandblast and get in the tight areas with a rust neutralizer. i have used my industrial paint sprayer with a modified wand from a power washer. As Comerz said you will need someone who knows how to weld sheetmetal, that and the body/paint can be the most expensive part of a resto, have seen estimates in the 20K range for cars in similar condition. Organization is the key, bolts and parts are like socks in a washer, never end up with enough when you try putting things back together a year or more later.

All this being said read the archives about new resto projects and learn from others successes and mistakes, thats what we are all here for, have fun and keep the pics coming....heres mine, daughter and her BF have been helping, started it September first, i am prepping for paint and should be on the road by may if all comes together well

1966 Tempest pictures by instg8ter - Photobucket

Brian
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-15-2011, 11:15 PM
 
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Depends on the rust and how much needs replacing, but the body panels for that car will be hard to find. They're not reproduced like '66-'68 cars, for example. Also goes for hood and trunk. Do you have the bumpers for that car? You have to re-chrome original ones. As has been mentioned, someone has to take a real good look at the frame and address it properly. Good luck and have fun.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you all for your interest and support. We have a local professional builder that we met at the "Crusin The Coast" event last October. He will likely do most of the most visible exterior metal work and the paint. We hav been looking for advice and information where ever we can get it. My wife gave usa DVD set from Car Restoration Videos - Antique Auto, Car Restoration Videos and DVD. If has a lot of good information, much of it I have seen in the advice on this forum.

We plan to separate the frame from the body. Our builder did recommend having the body and frame dipped in acid to get it all to bare metal. He also has an "agreement" with the local Nissan plant to dip the entire body, frame, etc... in their metal sealer. This is the same sealer used on their new cars. He didn't give us a price and I have a feeling that he feels it is out of our budget.

I do have the media blaster and plan to practice with that on a couple other small projects before trying on the car. I will likely try it on areas of thecar that will not be visible when finished like the floor or trunk. Have any of you tried a media blaster on the exterior panels of a classic car? This is not a sand blaster but uses different biodegradable media. I believe the media I was given it ground up corn husks. The other choices were ground walnut shells, glass beads, and a few other natural options. What does the powder coating of the frame cost in your area? I am just trying to get a ball park figure.

We do have both bumpers, but I am afraid the rear bumper is beyond repair. Our builder gave me contacts for local chromers, trim polishers, radiator shops, that he does business with on his cars. His recommendation was that since we had a fairly long time to complete the car that we woudl get a much more resonible cost if we sent the parts early to the chromer and polisher and they didn't have to rush on them.

I think our major hurdle to completing the car, other than money of course, if lack of an enclosed area to work on the car. We would be much further along if it were in an enclosed garage, but I am not going to let that stop us.

Have any of you added shoulder (3 point) seat belts to your project cars? I want the car to be safe and this is one area where I haven't seen much if any discussion.

I will keep you posted on our progress. It wil be slow going since I work out of town every other week.

Thanks again,
David
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
 
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I forgot to mention, if I had an unlimited budget I would replace my chassis and suspension with a setup from these guys:

A Body Frame Sneek Peek
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 09:55 AM
 
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if you will be doing it outside be diligent about covering any bare metal with at least etching primer as soon as you are done for the day, one evening rain on bare metal and you are back to square one.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 10:20 AM
 
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Sounds like you have a good plan. My suggestion is keep in mind how much money this will cost, your budget, and how much an already restored Tempest Custom Post car is worth. That being said, bet your car will look really nice.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 11:28 AM
 
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One more suggestion...

Let me address your question about powder coating first. For a full frame and all chassis components, we usually pay around 1200 for black, custom colors are more. We have found we can't have the frame and parts blasted, or clean them ourselves, and paint for this price. It is just one way to take care of the frame.

On your body, there is a considerable amount of rust here, and you have made mention of the car being safe more than once. My philosiphy is if it's worth doing it's worth doing right. What I mean by this is the only real way to repair rust is to replace the panels. I have seen some guys repair holes with fiberglass, it does fill the hole but will usually end up causing problems in the long run.

One lesson I learned along ago, if the rust is TOO bad, sometimes you are better off in the long run to find another car that is in much better condition. It puts you way ahead of the game when it comes to repairs and money. I realize money may be an issue, and it may be hard to come up with a few thousand dollars for another car vs. paying a little here and a little there to replace parts as you have the money, but honestly you will be money ahead to look at this option.

As for media blasting, there is no real issue blasting the body as long as you use the correct media, if the media is too aggresive it will heat up and warp the metal. The media you are talking about should be ok, we always contract our blasting out so I am less knowledgeable about this sort of thing. Just take your time and don't hammer on any one area for an extended period of time, keep it moving! Same goes with welding or grinding, have to keep moving around to dissapate the heat.

As to the value of your car when you're done. Odds are, with the current condition and the changes/additions you plan to make to improve the car overall, the car will never be worth the amount of MONEY you put into it. However, doing this with your son will make PRICELESS memories and give you both excellent experience. This is how I got my start, my dad and I restored my first car together and I have been hooked ever since. The experience truly changed the relationship between my dad and I for the better, and there are memories there neither of us will ever forget.

One last piece of advice, check out any of the shops you are looking at to do work for you. I am sure I have a customer or two I didn't make completely happy when working for them, but there is no way they can call my quality into question. Too many times we end up with a customer's project after it has been to one or more other shops and the customer has been "burned" in some way or the other. This is for any sort of work you have done throughout your life, always do a littlle homework, check out the shop and meet the owner/manager, if he doesn't make you feel like you are the most important customer he has when you are in his presence, best to keep looking. This is a very personal experience (even though you are contracting out) and you need to feel like it is personal for the shop too.

Sorry for the long read, just wanted to make sure you have a good feel of what's ahead of you!

Chris
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-16-2011, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcvice1967 View Post
We have already purchased an LT1 from a 96 Trans Am and are on the lookot for a 4L60E automatic to replace the 326 and factory trans. He wants the Dakota Digital dash set to replace the gagues and Summit racing style buckets to replace the front bench seat. We will definitely be installing an aftermarket AC/Heat system to handle the Louisiana sumers.
Hats of to you for getting involved on a project with your son.

I'm hoping though I can talk you into selling that LT1 to someone who wants it (hopefully for a profit) and building authentica Pontiac power for your ride...

Bear

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