'68 GTO resto... Mad Max meets Pro-Tour - Page 3 - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #21 of 118 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by PontiacJim View Post
Ah, all the "usual"rot spots. So glad reproduction parts are available! Looks like they are doing so great work.

A few more matte black cars. The first pic is from a T-shirt company. I like it in that I was thinking it might be cool to go with a shiny black on the lower portions and a matte black on the upper portion separated by a brite thin custom strip, ala lime green outer layer, lemon yellow inner layer, & white center - sorta like the Judge colors.
I have a couple of those on my Pinterest board. I think they were from the Punisher car... Great movie! I love the look. That happens to be a bit on the flat side but Thank you! Your idea from the T-shirt company in intriguing. I painted the engine Grabber Green for that reason. I thought the bright green sitting inside all that satin black would totally pop!
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post #22 of 118 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
 
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The engine is primed with the KBE Rust Blast zinc phosphate etching primer and I'll be painting it black tonight. Also they reprimed the passenger side fender as there was something under it making even the original paint lift and crack, an acid or brake fluid or something. They also filled in the gaping hole for the old antenna... I'm hoping it will be in my driveway Friday...

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]26 by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]27 by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]
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post #23 of 118 (permalink) Old 05-17-2018, 06:45 PM
 
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I love your enthusiasm! Looks like you are going about this in a well thought out manner. Doing things right but keeping in mind that the end goal is to have a car that you'll finish and enjoy. Too many projects linger half finished in the back of garages. It doesn't look like yours will suffer that sad fate. Can't wait to see it in the flat black!

Your engine build is bitter sweet for me. Right now my LeMans has a very tired 400 out of a 73. I had plans to do something about it this year but my daily driver had other plans. This came as a complete surprise since it only has 85,000 miles on the clock but was just out of warranty by time. GMC has 5 years 100,000 and my truck is a 2012.
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post #24 of 118 (permalink) Old 05-18-2018, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Jared. I've been wanting to do this since I bought her back in High School... It's crazy how obsessed I am about this damn car. The hardest part is keeping a level head and focusing on getting her running but not just slap her together. I have to keep in mind what I want to restore now and what I will be able to restore later after she is running. I don't want to have to take certain things apart again if I can fix it now, especially if it involves getting rid of rot or replacing/restoring broken or worn parts... The balance is a struggle but making lists helps tremendously...

So I got her back last night and tare down continued... That is also a struggle... You can dig and dig and dig into these things and find yourself with nothing but sheet metal.... Knowing when to stop digging is a struggle too... I would love to have a completely brand new top of the line car but I would never finish this thing if I keep thinking that way. Balancing the restoration and making good thought out decisions on what to fix, what to replace, what to upgrade and what to leave alone requires a level head and discipline...

The end goal is important. Knowing that I will be able to drive her soon keeps me going. Knowing that after she is running I can upgrade things like the driveshaft, rear end, rear disks, better fuel cell/fuel pump combo, halo LED head lights, LED tail lights, Bitchen stereo system.... on and on and on... This will forever be a project. This will forever be a hobby but this will be a hobby I can drive and have fun with as I go...

SO.... last night she showed up. They did great work on the roof, windows, trunk filler and trunk pans... She still has dings and dents, there is still a little superficial rust on the cabin floors but I can handle a lot of that....

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

The bad news.... I had no idea the CPP drop spindles were bare, uncoated steel. So, yes you guessed it.... My new and beautiful spindles are rusty... #@[email protected]#*@$%*(...... Rather than completely disassembling them, i'm going to hit them up with some Ospho and then brush on some epoxy and then a top coat. same with all the hardware for my shiny new steering linkages... all rusty... more Ospho and epoxy on them too. It's all light surface rust so I'm not too pissed... it just makes me mad there weren't any notes from the manufacturer or OPGI to this affect...

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

The priorities now are as follows...

-I took the old MC off and i will continue to take everything off the firewall. Then I will clean it, weld shut all the small screw holes; this thing looks like someone hit it with a 12ga from all the sheet metal screws that were punched through it...
-Then I will Ospho all the bare metal on the firewall. After that I will hit it with epoxy primer and use the rest of the KBS engine enamel I have. I thought about doing the same satin black on the firewall but that would be a bare to keep clean with the inevitable grease and grime from the engine... gloss or semigloss is the only way to go if I want to make things easy on myself...
-After that the new firewall forward wire harness goes in from American Autowire
-Then the new MC from Wilwood
-Fabricate new brake lines
-THEN...... the engine can finally go in....

Also!!! I have been working on a custom part no one sells for Pontiac engines. They have them for some Fords, Mopar and a bunch of Chevy's but only a tiny section of this for Pontiac... Check out the pictures and let me know what you think AND if you can guess what they are...... Hint... no more oil leaks due to bowing of thin gauge stamped steel.... I've already had one side made and it fits like a glove!

[IMG]OIL PAN FRONT P by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]oil pan D-S 229 by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]
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post #25 of 118 (permalink) Old 05-18-2018, 07:55 PM
 
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Looks really good. Bad luck on the spindles. If you get it now, it should be just fine. I made the same mistake on the master cylinder on mine when I converted to front disks. Looked like it should have been coated but wasn't.

You made guessing the parts easy. You left the description on the picture tags otherwise I would have been lost. Good idea!
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post #26 of 118 (permalink) Old 05-18-2018, 09:09 PM
 
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Looking good. Never had a problem with oil leaks on a pan. But, that may have been because better quality gaskets were available back in my time? Pontiac did have these corner tabs that go at the rear of the pan which often get thrown away or did not come with the year that your car was manufactured - not exactly sure when they began adding these.
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post #27 of 118 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
 
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oil pan reinforcements and body bushings....

Thanks! As an engineer I tend to error on the side of bullet proof and over engineered lol! So i started searching and only found the corner pieces you mentioned Jim. I like them but they aren't enough for me. Here are the pictures for the one side I've already made and as you see, they fit perfectly. I've since had them powder coated black, also this was back when the engine was Grabber Green.....

[IMG]IMG_0557 by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_0558 by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_0559 by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

No more bowing between bolts, flexing or buckling...

This weekend I stripped clean the firewall and degreased it. I'll be welding shut the mess of holes and prepping for paint this week. I also began installing the new body bushings yesterday... I had some issues with how the kit identified where the bushings went as what was installed in my car didn't match. Things like where the solid bushings went versus the ones that were bolted in. I think I figured it out but I will be double checking tomorrow when I can get back into it. I'll also upload some pictures of all this tomorrow too. I was moving too fast and forgot to take some. I still have the other side of the car to do. The comparison between old and new bushings is insane. The old ones were crushed so badly, cracked and really soft. These bushings from OPGI.com are awesome and I think they will pay dividends with respect to ride quality.
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post #28 of 118 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
 
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Old body bushings are gone! because I neither have the time nor the means to do an actual frame off I am making due with what I have. So in the end after figuring things out on one side, I was able to get a system down for the other side.

First I removed the hardware securing the bushings. Surprisingly these things came out really easy and without the need for penetrating oil. After that I found the two center most body braces and spanned a 2x6 across them and put a jack in the center. Then I lifted until the tires were all but off the ground. This gave me enough clearance all the way from front to rear to be able to spray the frame with degreaser, ospho and then epoxy primer. From the pictures below it is clear where a good portion of my body roll was coming from...

The kit was from OPGI and there were a few extra bushings for my application. I have to assume this kit is used in several other applications like the convertibles and/or other makes/models. Rather than using the guide supplied I was forced to simply compare to what was original. I had three choices and one was extremely obvious... the solid bushing. The diagram, sadly, is anything but accurate for my car. It said I needed no solid bushings up front at the bend in the frame just under the wheel well mount/firewall. There was first a solid bushing and then a bolted bushing. the other picture is what I used compared to what was installed originally...

Additionally the kit had no notes or information on installation. It wouldn't take much to print a few blurbs on the back of the diagram to the effect of proper hardware installation (i.e. tighten till slight bulge is seen in bushing??), lubricant or loctite??, install frame to body bushing such that bushing is properly nested in frame locating hole prior to lowering the body otherwise the bushing will be misaligned and will get pinched... Too easy people... Maybe that's just the engineer in me and I'm asking too much. I left these comments on a review of the kit so hopefully they take it to heart and help out future customers.

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

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post #29 of 118 (permalink) Old 05-26-2018, 04:12 PM
 
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So you were able to do this basically with just a floor jack and a 2X4? No issues with the body twisting or anything? I'm sure there are many of us with bad body bushings that have just dealt with the problem (myself included). I was sure that you would need a lift and bracing to swap them out. I have been working on replacing all the suspension bushings because they are/were all bad doing the worst ones first. I would love to replace the body to frame bushings too because I know they are rough at best. Now you have me thinking...

I repeat what I said before, I love your enthusiasm!
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post #30 of 118 (permalink) Old 05-26-2018, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Jared. I’m so pumped about this thing and always have been. I was nervous lifting it the way I did but I made sure I was firmly on the braces and kept an eye on the body to see if anything looked like it was bowing. It all came up evenly and I actually made sure all bushings were disconnected so I wouldn’t be lifting the added weight of the frame too. It probably also helps that the car is completely gutted.

So it turns out I was mistaken and OPGI was misleading with the bushing kit. They say it’s for a GTO which is both correct and false. All GTO’s have Big Blocks which means you have to get the supplemental bushing kit. When my car was manufactured they did something unusual and it threw me for a complete loop. In my last post I mentioned there being a solid bushing up front under the firewall. Well putting a solid bushing there left me with no bushings for the rear cross member. Actually the diagram OPGI supplied was correct and my car was built incorrectly. I speculate it was because my car was very early in the production year and they may have made a change or maybe when they built it the guy just ran out of bolt on bushings and threw in a solid one.... either way I need to lift the drivers side again and take the solid bushing I installed in the front and place in on the rear cross member.

I ordered the supplemental kit and will do these changes when it shows. Honestly the bushings were a breeze to change and one of the easiest and most cost effective upgrades I could have done. Tonight I worked on the firewall. Sadly some of the work I’ve already done in the engine bay is getting messy. Had I had the time way back before the suspension went in I would have done all this first. The Ospho I’m using is nasty but effective. It’s discoloring everything but most of it comes clean with soap and a scouring pad. It’s just added work but my hands were tied and I’m on too much of a time crunch to disassemble the front end again.

I’m ready to prime and pictures will come tomorrow. If only I would get the primer I ordered. Twice now I was shipped white epoxy primer in a box labeled black.... an annoying bonus is they done accept returns and only refund. So I have enough white epoxy to do and entire car if anyone is interested. I contacted the company directly and voiced my frustrations and they are sending yet another box. This is costing them quite a bit in mistakes as I’m allowed to keep the missabled product.
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