'68 GTO resto... Mad Max meets Pro-Tour - Page 8 - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #71 of 99 (permalink) Old 09-07-2018, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
 
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I changed out the break in oil and inspected it. I was pleasantly surprised to not find any evidence of water/coolant and there were no chips on the plug magnet. The oil looked quite clean and had no suspect odors. There was evidence of extremely fine metal "dust" in a homogeneous state but i expected this from breaking in new rings, cam, etc.... Having the oil filter on the firewall is beyond continent, btw!

I've isolated my oil pressure issue down to either I have no oil pressure, which I believe not to be the issue because while she was running loosened the sending unit and oil began pouring out clearly under pressure, or the sending unit is faulty. Being that the sending unit had been removed for quite a long time and debris likely got into the pin hole I'm thinking this is the likeliest of suspects... Occam's Razor... A new sending unit will be here in a day or two.

The season is beginning to wind down and I suspect the weather to begin getting too wet and days too short to get much more done. I'd like to finish up the brakes and chase down some if not all of the electrical bugs but we'll see. I'd really like to just take her around the block once or twice to verify the clutch and rest of the drivetrain are good to go but the brakes have to be bled first and the tires make me nervous as they are 20 years old.

Here's one last video clip...


[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

Last edited by curtis.smith68; 11-06-2018 at 07:12 AM.
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post #72 of 99 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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I had an "AH HA" moment with the oil pressure and water temp issue.... I should have known better... I used my troubleshooting skills and isolated the problem. I installed the new pressure sender and that didn't fix the issue though the old sending unit was faulty so I went into basic spark chasing mode. I checked continuity in the gauge to sensor ends of the lead, all good. Sending unit has a good ground and when I contacted the gauge lead directly to ground the gauge shoots up to 100 psi so I knew the gauge was good and it had to be something interfering with the signal between the sensor and the gauge... To confirm this I grabbed a separate length of wire and directly connected the pressure sensor to the gauge, bypassing the new wire harness and BINGO, the gauge shot up to operating pressure. Once I figured this out I literally smacked my forehead...

The gauges probably have a built in voltage divider and use the variable resisters (sending units or sensor) to interpret and relate voltage change to a numeric psi value. Well... under-thinking how I wired my gauges originally and trying to be clever.... When I wired up the dash oil pressure and water temp gauges I doubled up the wires at the gauge connections to basically daisy chain two gauges in parallel (my dash gauge and my aftermarket digital gauge pod mounted under the dash). I should have known this would not have worked. Both pressure gauges are sending 12 volts to a single variable resistor (pressure sensor) and in-turn interpreting the signal and therefore the signal is becoming garbage. If I want to operate two gauges then I need to use two independent sending units and dedicated leads. Lesson learned and I've managed to get one gauge working and am happy to see 70 psi in the mid RPM range.

Knocking out electrical gremlins continue. The next one that has me completely baffled... on the main firewall bulkhead connector there was a loose tan lead with a molded pin connector on it to be connected to the distribution valve. I'm assuming this is a brake light lead which uses brake pressure as a switch, I'm assuming it's in either parallel or series with the brake pedal switch, and should in no way be in the emergency brake dash light circuit... Unless I'm completely wrong and the dash brake light is supposed to illuminate with brake fluid pressure... because when I was bleeding the brakes and building up pressure by pumping the pedal the dash brake light would illuminate... oye...
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post #73 of 99 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
 
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Now that the engine is broken in and has gone through a couple heat cycles, I'm going to conduct some re-torques... Anyone have any suggestions on items to consider verifying torque on? I'll be going over the headers, heads, bellhousing and since I am reinstalling the inner valve springs I'll be setting the rockers again using new lock nuts. I've also replaced the fuel filter and done an oil change since break in. All other fluids are new and the brakes have been completely flushed and bled.
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post #74 of 99 (permalink) Old 09-19-2018, 07:54 PM
 
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When you do your torque checks, please check the intake bolts. My 72 lemans has an Edlebrock intake and has blown 2 intake gasket sets. I replaced them again, and re-check the torque after every heat cycle the first three times, and find most of them loose again. I have used thread sealant, and even blue loc-tite on them. After the first three times I re-torque, and check them every 2 heat cycles. Then I find about half of them loose. After another couple checks I find a couple loose, then finally none of them loose. Just my Pontiac 350 engine and maybe something is a miss. I just don't want you to have another problem you could avoid. Just do a "nut and bolt" check on everything on the car for awhile. Just saying.

Jerry
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post #75 of 99 (permalink) Old 09-20-2018, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by deputycrawford View Post
When you do your torque checks, please check the intake bolts. My 72 lemans has an Edlebrock intake and has blown 2 intake gasket sets. I replaced them again, and re-check the torque after every heat cycle the first three times, and find most of them loose again. I have used thread sealant, and even blue loc-tite on them. After the first three times I re-torque, and check them every 2 heat cycles. Then I find about half of them loose. After another couple checks I find a couple loose, then finally none of them loose. Just my Pontiac 350 engine and maybe something is a miss. I just don't want you to have another problem you could avoid. Just do a "nut and bolt" check on everything on the car for awhile. Just saying.

Jerry
Excelent! Thank you. I Plan on just going over everything I can but I also want to hear stories like this so I know what I should give more focus on. Rebuilding helicopters is easy in that the documentation is extremely explicit on re-torque/torque check schedules and so on. Here I'm damn near completely blind but figure this is a good start.
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post #76 of 99 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
 
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We are deep in fall here in Central NY and I even see the first snow in the forecast for this weekend... My garage is barely a garage by definition and doing any work on the GTO between now and April is a pipe dream at best... Until spring things will be very quiet. All I will be able to do is fight the mice and hope they don't destroy all of my hard work. But when Spring comes... Full speed ahead again!!
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post #77 of 99 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 06:28 PM
 
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Originally Posted by curtis.smith68 View Post
We are deep in fall here in Central NY and I even see the first snow in the forecast for this weekend... My garage is barely a garage by definition and doing any work on the GTO between now and April is a pipe dream at best... Until spring things will be very quiet. All I will be able to do is fight the mice and hope they don't destroy all of my hard work. But when Spring comes... Full speed ahead again!!
What, stop because of cold weather? They make this thing called a Salamander Heater. I used to work in an old chicken coupe in Connecticut on my stuff during the winter. That Salamander Heater was all I needed to warm the inside area I worked in. You would be surprised how much heat they throw off.

One of the reasons I moved south - much longer warm periods, minimal snow/ice that does not last long. I get more "car time" this way. LOL
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post #78 of 99 (permalink) Old 10-18-2018, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
 
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I used to work on her in the garage in the winter in my last house but that garage was larger. Literally this garage is like putting a condom on my car. I would love to put a salamander in there to do work but there isn't any floor space and I can barley walk around it... IT's all good. I wish I could take the car, my boy and girlfriend and get out of here and move back to California or SC or something but unfortunately I am stuck here until the boy goes to collage and probably then some... I'll make the best of it and work on finding a place with land or a larger garage already as life progresses.

There she is all nested and ready for hibernation... lol. In this picture she is all the way to the far left wall so that I can walk in next to her but I can't get my tool box doors open all the way without hitting the door or fender. Also with the rear bumper actually touching the back wall, the front bumper just clears the door by 2-3 inches....

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]
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post #79 of 99 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
 
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Finally! I'm back at it again.... It's been a long winter and I have been chomping at the bit to get back to working on her. I began reinstalling my inner valve springs. I'm waiting for a warmer day to fire her up and finally begin adjusting timing and fuel. I have a little more re-torques to take care of but it's just good to get her out of hibernation and get greasy again.


This is a tool I made. the angle on the bar is perfect for the Pontiac valve angle. All I did was cut about an inch off the end, open up a large groove for the valve stem and opened and rounded the edges for the rocker stud. I haven't damaged the studs at all and have had nothing but luck with this perfect $4 Harbor Freight custom made valve spring compressor...

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]
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post #80 of 99 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
 
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Progress... So after setting the valve lash via the following method...

Pontiac Rocker Arm Adjustment

Even though I had taken my time I still managed to make an annoying mistake... If you listen closely to the following video you may hear it when I'm close to the engine bay. I started recording just a couple seconds after I got her fired up and this was the first time she ran since last fall. Really rough idle and there is something a miss that is disturbing and in addition to needing timing and carb' adjustments...

[IMG]Before tuning, loose rocker by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

IT's painful to listen to and I was terrified I was loosing a rod bearing but the clatter sound didn't sound like a bearing going and sounded more like a rocker clattering, I had hoped. So I opened up the valve covers and started over again setting the valve lash on every valve. By the time I got to the last one I found the culprit... It was the #7 exhaust rocker and it was so loose I'm shocked the pushrod hadn't popped out of its socket. After setting them again, getting her running and up to operating temperature she sounded MUCH better. Aside from a couple leaks at the header, all abnormal sounds were gone and the anxiety melted away.

Moving on to tuning, I set the timing and adjusted the carb' which had been running so rich there is black soot on my driveway and it was choking me out. This video is after this. The camera is too close and when revving the engine the sound gets extremely distorted. I'm a bit nervous about the vapor coming out of the exhaust though... I figure it's either water vapor from normal operation on a cold damp day or I have a head gasket leaking into a cylinder... Other than that, I am overjoyed with how responsive she is. No hesitation at all.

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  Pontiac GTO Forum > The 1964-1974 Pontiac Tempest, Lemans & GTO > 1964-1974 Tempest, LeMans & GTO Projects, Barn Finds & Restoration Discussions

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