Beard Bros 1966 GTO Resto / Build - Page 2 - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 02:03 PM
 
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Are you in Tucson, AZ ? If so, what is the name of your shop?

Thanks

Chris

1965 GTO Convertible 3 speed tri-power drum brakes originally

Current setup:
400 cu in with tri-power
4 speed Muncie
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
 
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Are you in Tucson, AZ ? If so, what is the name of your shop?

Thanks

Chris
I am in IL, SW of Chicago.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 09:14 PM
 
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Is it originally a Carrier Blue Iridescent car, and is it going back to that color...i get so many compliments on mine, it's not a color you see alot.

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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Is it originally a Carrier Blue Iridescent car, and is it going back to that color...i get so many compliments on mine, it's not a color you see alot.
It was originally a Palmetto green car with a white top and white interior with tri-power and 4 speed. The previous owner changed it to blue with black interior. Not sure what color it will get but it will for sure be metallic.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-11-2018, 06:23 PM
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Keep it Palmetto with the parchment interior. Super sharp, never seen, very rare. Nice work!
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-13-2018, 03:20 PM
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I am thinking of going with some Edelbrock heads instead of the stock ones. Anyone have any experience/ recommendations? Here is a pic of its current state, pretty much ready to drop in.
I'm late to the party on this one Love your work so far. If you prioritize performance over originality then aftermarket heads are the way to go. They have advantages: they flow better, they have hardened exhaust seats so that they tolerate unleaded fuel better, and being aluminum you can get away with more compression --- just to name the big hitters.

One strong recommendation: If you do choose to go aftermarket aluminum, do NOT buy them "ready to run" with valves and springs already installed. There's a reason that the price delta between bare heads and "ready to run" heads is so small. Guess what it is....

The way to go is to buy bare heads and send them to a GOOD cylinder head person to have them outfitted correctly with good valves and good springs, set to the correct pressures and installed height for the cam you plan to run. Witness:

Bear
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
 
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I'm late to the party on this one Love your work so far. If you prioritize performance over originality then aftermarket heads are the way to go. They have advantages: they flow better, they have hardened exhaust seats so that they tolerate unleaded fuel better, and being aluminum you can get away with more compression --- just to name the big hitters.

One strong recommendation: If you do choose to go aftermarket aluminum, do NOT buy them "ready to run" with valves and springs already installed. There's a reason that the price delta between bare heads and "ready to run" heads is so small. Guess what it is....

The way to go is to buy bare heads and send them to a GOOD cylinder head person to have them outfitted correctly with good valves and good springs, set to the correct pressures and installed height for the cam you plan to run. Witness:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OH0-iEIrfv8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmVVoUT7Di0&t=315s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3jn2ER455Y

Bear
Thanks for the info! Never would have thought the A/M stuff would be so bad!
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 12:18 PM
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The heads themselves are good, some are even great. I'm making really good power with mine, 72cc Round Port Edelbrocks. Fortunately someone I trust urged me to buy them bare and then have them prepped by a skilled head porter. I'm very glad I did.

Bear
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