Dan's Colo Restore Story - Page 2 - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #11 of 71 (permalink) Old 12-09-2014, 07:17 AM
 
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Dan, kind of depends on what you have described as the end state. A really special paint job could be several thousand. I've got a buddy that is restoring a 67 Corvette and his paint cost $3k a gallon. You should definitely get a second opinion. Matt

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post #12 of 71 (permalink) Old 12-09-2014, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
 
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Yeah, I should have given more information. I am going to paint it stock color. Nothing exotic. Just make it look new.
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post #13 of 71 (permalink) Old 12-28-2014, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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Today we had a body separation/Bronco's party today (sorry Oakland fans). We made a major milestone separating the body from the frame. Verified the serial number on the frame. The body goes to the media blaster tomorrow.
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post #14 of 71 (permalink) Old 12-29-2014, 08:40 AM
 
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If you are doing the metal work, I think 20K is very high, and I am from New York, Land of the Giant Rip off artists. I go by the rule of thumb of 500 per panel plus materials. Get a second opinion.....Good luck with this project.....congrats on the body separation!
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post #15 of 71 (permalink) Old 12-30-2014, 09:51 AM
 
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Dan, doing anything to the frame? Matt

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post #16 of 71 (permalink) Old 12-30-2014, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
 
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Yep. I am going to strip it all the way down to the frame, get it blasted and paint it. I will be doing the engine, transmission, rear end and front end as well.

There appears to be a little damage to the drivers side horn. Please see picture. I am trying to decide if I need to fix this or not. It seems cosmetic at this point. Thoughts? The rest of the frame appears to be in really good shape.

Also, I was talked into converting to front disk brakes. I will keep all the original drum brake parts in case there is ever a need to put it back to stock. I have a lead on a 71 Chevelle with the single piston calipers.
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post #17 of 71 (permalink) Old 12-31-2014, 07:18 AM
 
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Sounds like a good plan. I have had a couple frames powder coated after blasting - really like the results. I powder coat most of the brackets, control arms, and cross member. Not seeing the damage on your frame. If the front end looked right before you took it apart, and you plan to use those same piece-parts, I wouldn't mess with it. Good stuff. Matt

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post #18 of 71 (permalink) Old 12-31-2014, 08:38 AM
 
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Perhaps the damage could be hammered out with a hammer and dolly, but it does look cosmetic only. I would definitely convert to disks up front. Those discs and calipers should work, I used a 72 lemans front disk set up on my 68 GTO. Do not forget you need a disc brake master cylinder and a proportioning valve for disc brakes, too. On a side note, my earliest date of my GTO is a receipt for a battery in Colorado Springs circa 1983...pretty ironic huh?
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post #19 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-01-2015, 12:18 PM
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To respond to one of your previous questions/posts about the $20k paint job: speaking as someone who did all his own body and paint work (because I myself got an $18k paint job quote from a restoration shop), I feel like I'm in a position to say that figure is not unreasonable. Yeah, you heard me right. Not unreasonable. Because now I understand how much time, labor, and effort goes into getting a high quality paint job. When someone says "it's all in the prep" - they're simultaneously telling the truth and making it sound a lot simpler than it really is. I'm talking hundreds of hours (literally) of priming, filling, guide coating, sanding, priming, filling, guide coating... all by hand (no machines allowed) just to get the body panels flat and straight. Then you apply one last coat of primer, wet sand the whole car (again by hand) with 600 grit to get all the previous sanding scratches out... all this just to get ready to start spraying material: sealer coat, color coats, clear coats. Done? Not hardly. After the clear is partially cured you get to start sanding again - the whole car - multiple times: 1000 grit, 2000 grit, 3000 grit... to get the surface of the clear coat "flat" and remove all the eggshell - this you can do with a 3/32" stroke random pattern air sander, if you're careful - but there's a very good chance that you'll break through the clear coat anywhere there's a sharp edge (in which case you get to start over and resand, respray the whole car) - so you'd best do those areas by hand and pray you still don't break through them. Once all the eggshell is gone, then you get to start in with the buffing compounds (2-3 different grades) for final finish and to bring out the gloss.

That's where the $20k goes. There aren't any shortcuts to getting a show quality paint job. It's not all THAT difficult in terms of the skill required, it's a significant investment of time and labor. What you're basically doing is paying someone else to care as much about your car as you do.

And, I can tell you again as someone who's done it all himself ---- I can tell you where every single paint defect is on my car, and they're there - trust me. Had I opted to pay the $18k I would have at least been in the position of being able to go back to the shop and say, "Hey, fix this". Now though, if I want those defects gone it's on me. (That's why they're still there )

Not that I'd do anything differently, I wasn't in a position to be able to pay that much for a paint job and still couldn't - probably never will be. Yeah, the car looks darn good, usually gets compliments on the paint at shows, and I'm kinda proud of being able to say that I did it all myself too. But to be brutally honest, it'd look better if I'd been able to spend the money.

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post #20 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-24-2015, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
 
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It has been a while since I posted, but I have made some significant progress. I completed all major disassembly. I kind of had to hurry through it because the blaster finished the body earlier than I had anticipated and had to prepare my garage for it. This weekend, I took them the frame to blast and got the body back. More rust than I knew about, but I kind of expected that. I guess I will get good at metal work.

I did have one disappointing discovery. The rear upper control arm mount on the rear differential was cracked. It was either that way when I got it or I did it when I was hammering out the bushing. The axle shop told me that if I couldnít push the bushing in by hand (which I canít), they could fix it. We will see. Keep your fingers crossed.

I decided to use POR15 on the frame and rear axle. It seems like a good compromise between powder coating and regular paint. I will put a few runs in the axle.

For the natural metal parts, has anyone ever used the POR15 clear? How did it work or would you recommend it? If not, what clear would you use?
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