Dan's Colo Restore Story - Page 3 - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #21 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-25-2015, 11:51 AM
 
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I used it on a 55 ford rear end and aluminum drive shaft I did, and it was easy to use and I liked the outcome. I used it on the cap of the rear diff. I'll see if I have a photo of the drive shaft somewhere.

Chris
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post #22 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-25-2015, 11:52 AM
 
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Here is another of the rear end
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post #23 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-25-2015, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks SOCMedic. I think I will give it a try.
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post #24 of 68 (permalink) Old 03-09-2015, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
 
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I am catching up on my posts. A lot has happened.

First, my axle shop was able to weld the control arm mount on my axle and recondition it. It looks like it should hold, but we will see. He replaced all seals, bearings, and races. He checked out the posi unit and said it was fine. Since the ring and pinion were fine, I had him leave the 2.93 gears in there. As this thing sucks the money, I decided to not unnecessarily replace parts. So, I guess I won't be able to smoke away tires indiscriminately. Maybe not a bad thing.

I did the frame with POR15. I did the whole process, starting with their cleaner. As the frame was blasted, it really wasn't too greasy and I thoroughly rinsed it afterward. I then used the metal prep etching. This leaves a zinc powder on the frame. It was a little unclear if you were supposed to wash this all off or leave it. The POR15 instructions say that if you are using the POR15 Rust Preventive paint, the zinc is the best surface preparation for that product, but also said it should be thoroughly washed. I did wash off the frame, but not to the point it removed all the zinc.

I then applied a couple coats of the black POR 15 Rust Preventative paint. I just applied it with a cheap brush and it really turned out great. The brush marks smoothed out great and was easy to apply. That was the good news.

I then applied the top coat. This was a completely different story. This was much thicker and was very difficult to put on smoothly. I thinned the second coat with the POR15 thinner, but still ended up with brush marks. Kind of sad after how good it looked before the top coat. I figured I would sand and reapply for any areas that looked bad after I assembled it. I really primarily did this for rust prevention.

One more thing about the POR15 system. A previous post said that the finish appeared chalky without the top coat. What I found is even after the top coat, you could get a chalky appearance if you touched it before it was cured. Not sure if it was picking contaminants off of my gloves or the zinc was coming to the surface.

Here is a picture.
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post #25 of 68 (permalink) Old 03-09-2015, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
 
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I had my transmission rebuilt and already have it back. Thankfully, there were no bad surprises. He did say that it had a mild shift kit in it and he left it there. The transmission will probably be sitting for a while as I am pretty far from being able to put it in.

I took my engine into the machine shop and received great news there too. No major problems. Overall, it was in really good shape. I do have to have a .030 bore and the crank has to be ground .010 under. The heads and block were both flat and did not need any milling.

So now for the holy wars. I have been reading a lot about what to do with the engine and as you can imagine, I have received a lot of opinions. Here is what I am planning. Let the opinions fly.

First off, I don't plan on racing this engine either on the street or strip. That's not to say I won't ever get my foot into it, but only to feel that "youthful exuberance" as others have said.

I plan to leave the 670 heads basically stock, reusing the intake valves, springs and rockers. This is on advise of the machinist who says they are all fine. He did install hardened seats and we will be installing new exhaust valves. I wanted stainless steel valves, but finding them was easier said than done. I am letting the machine shop source them and if they can't find them, I may just end up with chrome steel.

I am also going to re-use the push rods after replacing the bolts with ARP bolts and getting them magnafluxed. I don't plan many trips beyond 5000 rpms, let alone 6000, so I figure it should be fine. We will see.

I am using ICON FHR series forged pistons. They are flat top pistons, but the valve reliefs give a +10.8 CC dish to lower compression. Based on my machinists calculations, it should be around 9.3:1 compression. This should be good as I am at altitude, about 5300 feet.

I plan to get the EX260H Comp Cam. The plan is to keep all the torque in the lower range.

Let me know what you think.

I do have a question. Summit has a kit with tappets and a double roller timing set. I have had some say that I shouldn't use a double roller set. What, if anything, should I be concerned about there?
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post #26 of 68 (permalink) Old 03-09-2015, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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One more post for the evening. I am about to buy my sheet metal. I found a source for US made steel, which I have read is thicker, but the person I talked to at Columbia parts said the fit is not as good as the imported metal.

I am torn between better fit and thicker metal. I am not very experienced at welding, so I am attracted to better fit and more of a stock look, but the thinner metal also could be a concern for burning through, etc. I did purchase a new MIG welder (Lincoln 140) and plan to practice my MIG welding before actually starting to weld them in.

For those with experience, what do you think? Thicker metal or better fit?

Also, has anyone used Columbia Parts? I found them on Ebay, but I can order from them directly, so they can bundle shipments, etc.
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post #27 of 68 (permalink) Old 03-10-2015, 06:32 AM
 
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Dan, when you say sheet metal, are you talking about patch panels? I think original is 20 gauge. Closer you are to that the better. Have you looked at AMD? Matt

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post #28 of 68 (permalink) Old 03-10-2015, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
 
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I had not looked at AMD, but just did. Maybe I am missing something, but they don't appear to have some of the patches I need such as a full trunk kit and the panels under the rear seats.
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post #29 of 68 (permalink) Old 03-10-2015, 10:37 AM
 
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Dan, I would give them a call to see if they can help you. I have had a good experience with them so far and I have not seen anything negative about their products. Matt

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post #30 of 68 (permalink) Old 04-20-2015, 03:03 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colorado67GTO View Post
I am catching up on my posts. A lot has happened......
Dude, you are flying along on this thing! We started about the same time with our '67's and I haven't even started thinking about engines and trannys. I don't think our 2 '67 Turquoise GTO's will be making their debut at the same time! All looks good, seems like you are taking on more of your own body work than I am capable of, but I've taken on more mechanical (rebuilt my own rear end with new bearings, races, and posi unit). Between us we would make one good restoration team.

I even have the same harbor freight rolling stool!
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