Pontiac GTO Forum banner

First time I've posted about my restore....

23K views 99 replies 21 participants last post by  PontiacJim 
#1 ·
.....and I'm well into it. Here are some pics of my 1967 GTO restore. It started life as a '67 base and I didn't get an original motor or rear end. I'm not doing a concours resto, just a "nice" frame off. I have a '73 455, it is a 4 speed car, and thankfully spent most of it's life in California. Just this weekend I lifted the body off the frame so I can clean it up underneath and do a total redo of the chassis. The finished product will be a 1967 GTO with a 455, aluminum heads, 17" aluminum rallye's, maybe vintage air, in the original Turqoise/Turqoise color scheme.
 

Attachments

See less See more
4
#44 ·
It's Back In

Got the motor back in this weekend, and then the driveshaft with new u-joints. Went pretty smooth for a one man operation. Need to get some R.A.R. round port HO manifolds next month. Have little stuff to work on until then...
 

Attachments

#45 ·
Suggestions?????

Crap. Ordered my round port exhaust manifolds from Ram Air Resto. Supposed to fit '66-'67, if you have a '64-'65 it says you may need to move the motor back an inch....well, after install I would say you need to move the motor back an inch for a '66-'67 too. On the drivers side, once installed the manifold interferes with the frame. This puts the driveline slightly out of line, but it is amplified at the trans tailshaft, it is off by over an inch.

Since the car is a 4 speed, if I move the motor back an inch, my clutch Zbar will be out of line, meaning I'd need to weld a new zbar holder to the frame.

Open to ideas............:nonod:
 

Attachments

#46 ·
The interference doesn't look all to bad in the photo if you have the engine in place. What I would do is #1) trim the upper control arm bolt off a bit, but it looks OK. #2) grind the upper control arm to make the clearance you need - doesn't look like much needed. #3) a possible upgrade to aftermarket tubular upper/lower control arms -if you are not too worried about original, but then again, you have the 455 w/Eddy heads, so it doesn't appear you gotta go original.

Moving the engine back will mean messing with your clutch shaft and most likely all the geometry of your pedal linkage rod and pushrod to clutch fork. You would also need to shorten your driveshaft IF it gets a little close to the back of that tailshaft housing that it goes into. Plus you would have to do some modifying of the trans mount/crossmember and move it back a like amount. The engine moved back will also move your fan back from the radiator if you use a bladed fan which could affect cooling and if you have a fan shroud, the fan may now be too far back to take advantage of it. So my personal opinion is that I would not move it back the 1" and then run into more problems and headaches to remedy the 1" setback.
 
#47 ·
....so my personal opinion is that I would not move it back the 1" and then run into more problems and headaches to remedy the 1" setback.
Yes, I want to stay away from that. My picture is poor. There is no interference with the control arm, it is strictly the frame itself. It is interesting, RAR only mentions this interference for '64-'65, not '66-'67. If I go to Butler performance they mention '66-'67 may need to "pound in the frame about a 1/2" to get them to fit, and I think they are just reselling the RAR manifolds.

So I guess the next question is how hard is it to pound in the frame of a '67 GTO? Requires significant heat and pounding, or will a hand sledge do it? Sent an inquiry to RAR but haven't heard anything yet......
 
#48 ·
am thinking you could gain some clearance ex manifold to frame clearance with a pair of the steel frame stand spacers that fit between the frame crossmember and the A body frame stands. A fellow on PY had some made out of 1/4" plate steel, believe with a waterjet . He was offering for cars suffering frame cradle sag. I've used c,ore crudlymade home built spacers made of thinner plate steel. The heavier the engine combined with high miles both contribute to frame cradle sag, it's very common.

It would also prove helpful to examine an original '67 Pontiac A body frame. Do know for '67, a revision was made in the stamping to allow for extra clearance for the '67 GTO HO-RA manifolds. The RARE round port manifolds were patterned off the '73-74 SD exhaust manifolds and are not the exact same shape in the lower areas as the '67 GTO RA manifolds. RARE is very acquainted with this, as their reproduction D port manifolds are patterned off the '67 GTO RA manifolds.

Way back in the '80's it was an occasional happening to run across a '65 or '66 GTO that the owner had ground notches into the frame for clearance to mount the OEM '67 RA manifolds. Having both RA D port manifolds along with round port manifolds, I just don't see the round ports fitting in a '65 or 66 frame without a minimum of the 1/4" spacers and some grinding.
 
#49 ·
I'm having problems visualizing the first part of your post regarding spacers and would like to understand better. Also like the idea of a notch. What if I (somebody) cut a notch, and then used that same piece pushed back into the frame void and re welded it to keep the strength?
 
#51 ·
Much Better

Thanks Jim, I think I got it.

Went out and bought a $60 4.5" Milwaukee grinder. Marked the areas (there were 2), ground them down a tad and then beat them a bit with a hand sledge.

It took a few tries up and down while I had the engine hoisted above me during the grinding, but I finally got it even allowing for engine lift under throttle.

Hard to see in the pics maybe, but seems like enough room. Now I can move forward!
 

Attachments

#52 ·
Been awhile

Been working on stuff off the car, finally did some more assembly. Tightened up my factory distributor and added a Pertronix module, had to add a shim washer under the drive gear. Then, considering my block / heads combo I thought I should get one of those pushrod length checkers, ended up needing 9.3" and got them put in. Also had JBP fab me some of their anodized valve covers. This weekend I put them all on/in. I think it looks good, clean, and uncluttered. Next I will order a repro factory aluminum intake.

After that I have to consider carb options. I have the original '67 quadrajet, but it needs a rebuild. By the time I have that done I may just be able to throw another $50 at it and get a new 800cfm one from Summit.....

Anyway, a little bit more on the engine and I should be able to fire it up.
 

Attachments

#53 ·
Been working on stuff off the car, finally did some more assembly. Tightened up my factory distributor and added a Pertronix module, had to add a shim washer under the drive gear. Then, considering my block / heads combo I thought I should get one of those pushrod length checkers, ended up needing 9.3" and got them put in. Also had JBP fab me some of their anodized valve covers. This weekend I put them all on/in. I think it looks good, clean, and uncluttered. Next I will order a repro factory aluminum intake.

After that I have to consider carb options. I have the original '67 quadrajet, but it needs a rebuild. By the time I have that done I may just be able to throw another $50 at it and get a new 800cfm one from Summit.....

Anyway, a little bit more on the engine and I should be able to fire it up.
I just got my engine back from CVMS and somewhere along the way the carb was broken.
I am looking for a 67 QJet to replace it so if you are interested in selling it PM me and I will give you 500 bucks for it.
 
#54 ·
Progress!

Got a lot done over this holiday weekend. Got my 4 speed lube in (GL4) and shifter hooked up. Received my dash harness from Amer autowire and got that started. Biggest thing was finally getting my intake on and buttoned up. Made some rails the same length as the fenders and mounted my core support. Rigged up an oil pressure gauge, while I was cranking it to time it it got 40 lbs pressure. I put an old junk Qjet to mock up the fuel line. I just need a carb and radiator and ready to fire it up! Will order a Q jet from SMI next week.
 

Attachments

#55 ·
Looking good. Clearance issues look cured with a little grinding and keeps the engine in its factory position.

I like the valve covers except......... I am an emblem/decal person when it comes to a little bling to brighten things up. If it were me, I would add a chrome emblem to the front top portion of the valve covers, ie "400", "Pontiac" script, "Pontiac Arrowhead", "GTO", etc.. The OPGI catalog has a pretty good offering and if you need to know what size the emblem is, you can email them and they will let you know - did this for my project. :)
 
#57 ·
I agree on the valve cover dress up. I have some 455 HO decals I may put on, but I'm going to wait until it's all done because I'm putting a ram air pan on and may use the 455 HO decal on the air cleaner. Don't want to go overboard.

Yeah, manual steering. I prefer it. Don't like the way GM power steering feels going down the road, overkill. I will have the full size steering wheel on there. Had a '66 for 20 years with manual steering was no problem.
 
#61 ·
It Runs.......

Well, I got my radiator in and added a JET stage 2 quadrajet and I have a running 455 GTO. My ballpark rocker arm adjustment was good enough to get her running and high speed idled for about 20 minutes. Had good pressure, had the usual startup leaks here and there, nothing major. Later I had an old valve cover I cut a long hole in and did a running valve adjustment and after a few more tweaks it idles great, has strong steady vacuum, and seemingly great throttle response (granted I have not driven it yet). I actually mocked up the drivers side wheel well and fender, starting to look like a car again. In January I need to add the vintage air setup and then finish putting the front clip on. I didn't do a very good job of taking pics but attached a couple. Yeah, I know the fan sticker is in the wrong place,, and that sorry looking air cleaner is temporary.........
 

Attachments

#62 ·
Progress

Been doing and redoing stuff. Noticed when the car was running it was making a hissing noise, found out the starter gear was not disengaging from the flywheel, took the starter out (which is a real ordeal on a '67 with ram air exhaust and a 4 speed). Found out the bendix lever came apart, so I took it as an opportunity to just put in a mini starter.

Got the fenders on and to get them to line up I had to raise the core support, which then resulted in the fan hitting the shroud - remount. Put new hinges on the doors because the old ones were super worn out.

Disc brakes on and working, used the Scarebird conversion that uses the Corvette rear rotors and astro van calipers. Once I did that I couldn't get my temporary 14" rims on so I went ahead and got the 17" Year One ralleys I was planning on.

Now sounds good and starting to take shape...
 

Attachments

#63 ·
It has a face.......

Continuing to do the little stuff in order to make sure I have all the parts I need and to make sure when I get the car back from paint I'm not all over it wrenching on stuff.

Got my pertronix, electric choke, etc wired into the factory harness. Car now starts with the ignition key. Was a bit of a search to find an Ignition on line that didn't have voltage drop on start. Also realizing the new dash harness needed the auto trans neutral safety switch connector needed to be bridged for a 4 speed car tripped me up for a few minutes.....

Mocked up the front end, making sure I had all the necessary hardware. Need new parking light lenses. Still need to get to the dash....
 

Attachments

#66 ·
Slow going......

Trying to get my dash back in and working has been slow. I converted to rallye gauges but had to refurb the dash too. I decided the turquoise interior paint I selected wasn't quite right, so I had to take everything out and repaint. Also had a gnarly dash pad I thought I'd never be able to reuse, but it actually came out pretty good. Finally, at reassembly attempt 4 I think I am close to having everything in. A couple more weekends and it's on to vintage air.

On the drive train front, I have my ram air pan installed and all the detailing is near finished. Even installed the little breather element feeding off the passenger valve cover.
 

Attachments

#69 ·
Vintage Air

OK, clock is ticking now because I have a body shop date. Have to have all my tinkering done by end of May because the car will be picked up for body work. Been installing my vintage air. Had some trouble with the compressor and tall valve covers, you have to have the compressor so far our you have limited adjustment on the belt. Tried several belts and finally took off the valve cover, put the belt on and adjusted. Seems good. The under dash stuff is not for the faint of heart, once the hoses are connected the unit is hard to get mounted up underneath, but it's done. I now have a glove box big enough for my registration and insurance card. Work on the heat controls next and then wire it up and attaché the hoses and vents.
 

Attachments

#70 ·
Vintage Air continued

Got a chance to get out there this weekend. So close on the air, I'll be so glad when I'm done under the dash. Got all the hoses run, all the vents in. Calibrated the dash controls, had a few issues but the VA Tech Line is great. All I have left is to add the condenser and charge the system. The defrost and vent air flow is excellent. Got my mini glove box in, fit perfect. Also test mounted some rear speakers so after it's painted I can just drop them in. Body shop picked up my hood and trunk lid to acid dip, I have 3 weeks to go. Decided to try and put in a rear mount remote antenna and radio before I send it off.
 

Attachments

#71 ·
Off to the body shop!

Well, she's finally on her way to body and paint. Found a local guy with a good rep and decent price. Put a better pass fender on before she went. Since it has no glass and it's been raining everyday we sent her over in a covered trailer.

I put some LED halos on my Corsa and liked them so much I ordered some for the GTO, got all the wiring in before sending it off.

Now just wait 3 months. Will be sending progress pics now and then. need to accumulate trim while waiting.
 

Attachments

#72 ·
Body Shop Pics

Painter sent me some pics, nice to know he's working on it regularly. We originally agreed the pass quarter needed replaced so when I sent the car I also sent one of the new Ames 67 quarter panels. He said it test fit so nice he would really like to do both sides (drivers side was a bit banged up and also had a lower panel welded in). Pony up more cash! Still hoping to get it back end of August........
 

Attachments

#74 ·
It's August........

........that's when I'm supposed to get the car back, by the end of the month. That was before we decided to replace both quarter panels so it may be a bit longer. I took a few pieces of chrome in to get them redone, almost needed to get the heart paddles when I got the quote....

A few pics attached, fenders, doors, top moving along good, starting next week quarter panels, back window area, and tail panel work.
 

Attachments

#75 ·
Quarter Panel Fitment

Body shop guy working on the car had high praise for the Dynacorn QP I bought from Ames. First pic is what was underneath the old one, will clean it up before welding the new one on. Other pics are from the test fit. Door and trunk gap, rear quarter window line, all line up perfectly. Will be doing both sides.
 

Attachments

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top