Misc 69 Torque Specs - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-13-2016, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
 
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Misc 69 Torque Specs

Hi all,

I am "hanging" pieces parts on my freshly rebuilt Pontiac 400. I have a reprint shop manual so I have "some" torque specs. I'm looking for specs for things like the start bolts and other miscellaneous nuts and bolts which are not covered in the manual. Are there such specs or are those tighten until they stop type of applications?

I'm asking because most nuts and bolts I removed from the engine and car to pull the engine were finger tight and I'm trying to avoid issue later on. (I know aren't we all)

I've not been able to find any specs like this here or on the inter web.

As always thanks in advance for any and all help. Dan

*67K miles... Under Construction* :)
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-13-2016, 11:32 AM
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-13-2016, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Goat Roper... Perfect.

What about stuff like the starter and fuel pump bolts etc...

*67K miles... Under Construction* :)
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-13-2016, 02:43 PM
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35-40 ft lbs on the starter I am guessing 20-25 for the fuel pump.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-13-2016, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks again!

*67K miles... Under Construction* :)
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-14-2016, 10:48 AM
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You're welcome Dan, a lot of this stuff you just learn after years of wrenching by feel, some things like heads you need to torque to a specific number other bolts and nuts you just learn to pattern things and tighten by feel.
Go easier on aluminum and pot metal than you would on cast iron and steel.
Pay attention to things like your timing cover 10 to 12 on it (water pump) and pattern it going in increments.
General rule is 1/3 example 30 pounds, 10 in a pattern then 20 and finally your 30.
Taking things down evenly reduces your chances of leaks.

Last edited by Goat Roper; 08-14-2016 at 10:54 AM. Reason: clarification
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-14-2016, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
 
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Unfortunately even the 25 flbs on one bolt is causing an issue on the fuel pump. How would you suggest fixing it? Helicoil? tap for a larger bolt?

I'm certain there was a problem before I got this car because I am a torque spec nut (no pun intended). I learned that from Dad long ago. I hate having to fix things like this.

*67K miles... Under Construction* :)
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-14-2016, 11:30 AM
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I prefer using Keenserts, much better than helicoils IMO.

Keensert

My local parts guy carries the kits and it is probably the best fix for that cover.
A lot of these covers have been ham fisted over the years and need to be repaired.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-14-2016, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goat Roper View Post
I prefer using Keenserts, much better than helicoils IMO.

Keensert

My local parts guy carries the kits and it is probably the best fix for that cover.
A lot of these covers have been ham fisted over the years and need to be repaired.
I never understand how guys do that... not thinking I guess. Thanks for all the information and solution. I really appreciate it.

*67K miles... Under Construction* :)
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-14-2016, 03:21 PM
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If you have a surface with minimal gasket surface like the face of your timing cover the pump mounts to after repairing with an insert put a lightly oiled bolt in it then fill around it with a two part epoxy like JB Weld.
Don't gob it, spread it thinly.
When it sets up pull the bolt and strike it flat with a fine cut file so you restore the gasket surface.
This extra bit of effort saves you the hassle of pulling the pump back off to fix a leak.
Helicoils work okay but a Keensert is a permanent repair especially in aluminum and they don't back out if you ever have to remove the bolt again down the road.
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