New engine blue smoke left tail pipe - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
 
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New engine blue smoke left tail pipe

Hi all,

I have a new rebuilt engine spewing blue smoke out the left tail pipe after the initial startup and 20 minute break-in period - heavily at idle and somewhat less under throttle.

I ran the engine at 1500-2000 RPMs for the initial break-in then changed the oil. There were tiny non-metallic flakes in the oil filter but nothing large - the oil had a sheen. I did it a second time to set the timing and idle mixture on a warm engine. It started to smoke after this "session".

Today I took it out driving it hard varying my RPMs and using a heavy foot making a conscious effort to go up hills when ever possible on a 20 minute drive. I did not use wide open throttle at this time but I did get close. when I returned it blew large amounts of oil as I lined it up to pull back in the garage.

The rebuilt engine sat all winter as I finished all the ancillary installation tasks.

I did NOT check the plugs yet (engine was cooling), but unless this is a characteristic of a Pontiac rebuild I suspect a NEW ring or valve seal is bad or installed incorrectly by the rebuilder?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Dan

Because picture-less posts are boring...




*67K miles... Under Construction* :)
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 12:02 PM
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Probably rings or valve guide(s).
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Plugs show near perfect burn.

Yea, I figured... figures.

Rebuilder says it's my tune, I'll do as he suggests but I'm not hopeful.

*67K miles... Under Construction* :)
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 11:39 PM
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You need about 500 miles to seat the rings and blue smoke is oil.
To check your tune run it until it is at operating temp, let it idle and shut it off.
Wait 30 seconds then just hit the key without touching the throttle.
If it doesn't fire right up then it isn't set up right.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-03-2017, 11:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks.

That's how it runs now - fires right up. I'll have to up the idle speed while in Park, it wants to die while backing up on a slight incline.

I have a friend coming over tomorrow afternoon who does this all the time, he will double check my tune. He also has a better timing light than I do (with total advance, rpms etc).

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Originally Posted by Goat Roper View Post
You need about 500 miles to seat the rings and blue smoke is oil.
To check your tune run it until it is at operating temp, let it idle and shut it off.
Wait 30 seconds then just hit the key without touching the throttle.
If it doesn't fire right up then it isn't set up right.

*67K miles... Under Construction* :)
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-04-2017, 09:50 AM
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Take it out on the freeway and run it.
It's all trial and error, I ran my goat out to Williams Az. and when I got there the points were fried so I went with a Pertronix replacement.
I had gone with a Comp Cam and the appropriate springs and on the way back I bent both pushrods on #3 in Barstow but gimped it home on 7 cylinders.
The Comp Cam rep didn't bother to tell me the stock pushrods were not strong enough for the lift and spring weight and I had to use Visegrips and a 3' crowbar to pull the bent exhaust rod out.
Pulled the intake and valley pan both lifters were laying in the galley, put them back in, new hardened pushrods and changed the oil.
Runs great now and oil pressure is back up to 60.
Most of my problems were due to a bad machine shop (CVMS) and lack of proper info.
You need to just run it and then do a compression check to see if it is the rings.
I also purchased a Greenline tach to add to my gauge package so I don't have to guess at where I am at on RPMS.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
 
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I remember your thread on that... I hope I don't have to go through that sort of thing.

Tried to tune it yesterday, apparently the timing light we used didn't work. The timing mark ended up way above the 0 mark. I'll have to get a new light and start over - I never set total timing before, just set it at 9 degrees then let the distributor and vacuum do the rest. With a "slightly above stock" cam I'm told by the builder I need 28-32 degrees of advance when all is said and done.

I looked at instructions for setting total advance using a small vacuum pump (I have both a plug in and hand vacuum pump) but I'm unsure how much vacuum is needed for the test/setting procedure - like I said new territory for me.

*67K miles... Under Construction* :)
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 09:41 AM
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Set your timing light to RPM and with the vac plugged to the dist. look at the timing marks and watch it move as you increase the RPMs.
When it stops moving that is the RPM you are all in at.
This should happen around 2,700 RPM.
Here is a good thread, read Bear's post on how to find the sweet spot.
Once you find it dial your timing light and read the advance at zero and record it for future use.

Pontiac Street Performance - Initial Timing Question
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
 
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Interesting read, thanks. Looks like there area lot more than a few ways to skin this cat.

To clarify something first. I still want to set a base timing (mechanical) WITHOUT the distributor vacuum attached then use the distributor(engine) vacuum to set the total advance not an external vacuum pump (as the timing light manual suggests)?

*67K miles... Under Construction* :)
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-05-2017, 12:43 PM
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Yes.
First you need to find out if zero is actually zero TDC on #1 .
Dial indicator in #1 to determine accurate timing mark.
Second determine "all in" with vac unhooked and plugged.
I have a golf tee in my timing light case for this purpose.
These are the first steps, you may need stronger springs or weaker in the dist. ideal is all in at 2,700.
I used Bear's method after getting it close, pick a start and finish line.
I have an TH-400, pegleg with 2.93 gearing so it isn't a rocket off the line but I have it dialed in to the point where I have to be really light on the throttle making right turns from a stop to keep from smoking the tire.
What you need to do is run it as you have it and get the rings seated and broken in because it will change.
When my engine was fresh my disc brakes didn't work well until my engine was broken in and the vacuum increased.
Vacuum increases as the rings seat so that will change the tune as far as advance time is concerned.
You need to do a compression test to find out which cyl. is causing the smoke but chances are that will quit happening once the rings are fully seated.
As long as it starts easily and you are not experiencing detonation drive it, 500 miles minimum, a thousand miles is optimum.
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