Primer Question - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-09-2015, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
 
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Primer Question

I have started on the metal work on my 67 and have a question about primer. I am wanting something I can use to prime the parts I expose while cutting out the old bad metal. I also want something that I can use to spot prime the places where I have welded in and ground the replacement pieces.

I haven't made any decisions on how this car will be painted or what products will be used.

The car looks primed, but has been recently blasted so it is all bare.

I am wondering if I would be safe with something like the Eastwood Epoxy primer. I don't want to put something on it that will cause me problems down the line, but I don't want to leave the welded and ground areas bare or miss the opportunity to hit some of the areas that I now have open. I have attached a couple of pictures to give you an idea of what I am talking about.

Thanks
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-09-2015, 06:55 PM
 
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Haven't spayed a car in years, but I can say that the typical primer (red or grey) is not good for long term. These primers are porous and moisture will get through. You want something that seals. If you used primer and then simply painted over it knowing you will be sanding it off, then that would work.

I would think that the epoxy primer would seal the metal, but can't honestly say. whatever you do use, you just want to make sure it seals against moisture.

I believe Eastwood also offers a "weldable primer" where welding won't burn it off like typical paint. Were you going to blast or de-rust the rusty pieces seen in the pics?
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-09-2015, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
 
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I was going to de-rust as much as I could, but I won't be able to get to many parts because they will be covered with steel I don't plan to remove.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-10-2015, 03:35 PM
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I like epoxy primer, especially that from Southern Polyurethanes --- that's what I used on my 69, both over bare metal and again, reduced, as a sealer underneath the color and clear coats.


Will the car be outside at all? How's the humiidity?

Another protective treatment that I used on bare metal with very good results was Picklex20. Apply with a spray bottle, spread with a paint brush.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-10-2015, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
 
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Bear,

The car will be garage kept and Colorado generally has very low humidity.

I will look into the products you recommend.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-16-2015, 03:03 PM
 
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Late to the party, but SEM etch primer, or an alternative brand, is a great way to protect bare metal. It contains a mild acid so protect yourself accordingly. Applied lightly it will keep your metal clean as you work, doesn't gum up like epoxy when you need to sand or grind away, a light tooth and you can apply it over bare repairs and sanding blow through. It's non-sanding for 24hrs which is very handy for those last minute covers and prep work. Available in aerosol cans for sure, perhpas qt cans for a gun too. Again, contains acid so PROTECTION AND VENTILATION IS IMPORTANT.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-16-2015, 03:10 PM
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Be careful with etch primer. Subsequent coatings that you may be planning to use might not be compatible with it. That happened to me. SPI Epoxy Primer (tough as nails, even lacquer thinner will barely touch it after it cures) specifically CANNOT be used over an acid etch primer. Planning is key here. I allowed the media blaster to coat my car with etch primer after blasting because I didn't know any better. Later, I got to sand every bit of it OFF before I could apply the epoxy.

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