Restoring a 1965 GTO convertible tri power - Page 3 - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #21 of 49 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 11:54 AM
 
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Originally Posted by cij911 View Post
Well, I have postponed paint & interior until ALL mechanical items are complete. The motor and transmission are running great. I did install a set of gold Mr. Gasket springs (part #927 - thanks Lars!) on the distributor to bring in full advance earlier. I have also adjusted my timing down, closer to factory specifications - I am at 8* (full advance is ~34* by 3500 rpm).

At this point I am about to replace the front and rear suspension, along with installing the massive LS1 disc brakes (98-02 Camaro SS or Corvette). The wheels and tires I selected are the AR Torque Thrust II (polished) - 17x8 front (245/45/17) and 17x9.5 rear (275/40/17). Tire-rack guarantees the front will work, the rear will be tight (test fit this weekend).

Front suspension is aftermarket front control arms (upper & lower), Viking coilovers (550#) w/ heim joint, and 1" sway bar (stock ??); rear suspension is Spohn control arms with heim joint (del sphere) joints all around for optimal movement, Viking coilovers (150#) w/ heim joint, and no sway bar for now.

Brakes are from an LS1 and have new Powerstop discs and pads (~13" rotors IIRC) and am using an 8" dual brake booster / master cylinder combination. In addition I will be installing a CVR vacuum pump and Summit Racing vacuum canister (as my motor only pulls ~ 12" vacuum).

I can't wait to get the suspension and brakes installed and dialed in, as the car should drive like an entirely different animal. Wish me luck!
Can't wait to see some pictures! Really enjoying your progress so far, keep it up!
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post #22 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
 
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I played a bit more with the timing and replaced the springs in the distributor with the softer (gold springs). Timing is coming in sooner and the engine seems to like it. Mr. Gasket part #927 in case you are interested.

I have 02 bungs in both side of the headers that I use for a wideband and will post videos of my AFRs.

I also installed aftermarket oil pressure, water temperature, and a voltage gauge (Autometer Traditional line). The gauges all use electrical senders, so no fluid is piped into the cabin. I also wrapped the majority of the wires in the engine bay (except power and ground), with a protective sleeve. I think it helps make the engine bay look cleaner and most importantly protects the wires from the heat.

Finally, I installed my massive wheels & tires - 245/45/17 front & 274/40/17 rear on American Racing Torque Thrust II. The wheels are American Racing Torque Thrust II (polished) 17x8 (front) & 17x9.5 (rear). The tires are BFG GForce Sport C2. So far I like how the tires perform.

I will lower the front a bit when I install my new suspension, but plan on keeping the rear height as is. I am so happy they fit!
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Joe'sToy likes this.

1965 GTO Convertible 3 speed tri-power drum brakes originally

Current setup:
400 cu in with tri-power
4 speed Muncie

Last edited by cij911; 08-15-2018 at 09:37 AM.
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post #23 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
 
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A few more pictures of the engine bay....

You can also see where I added the mechanical valve to close off the heater core. Without it, the cabin really heats up.
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1965 GTO Convertible 3 speed tri-power drum brakes originally

Current setup:
400 cu in with tri-power
4 speed Muncie

Last edited by cij911; 08-15-2018 at 09:40 AM.
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post #24 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 12:02 PM
 
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Looking good !!
Get that suspension on there!!
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post #25 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-15-2018, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by DIRT-GOAT View Post
Looking good !!
Get that suspension on there!!
It is going on now.....A few more days and I will have pictures up....The rear brake conversion did not work, so for now I will keep rear drums. Front brakes are LS1 with 13" rotors .

1965 GTO Convertible 3 speed tri-power drum brakes originally

Current setup:
400 cu in with tri-power
4 speed Muncie
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post #26 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-25-2018, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
 
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OK a quick update (pictures to follow) on the suspension and brakes.

The installation was more challenging than originally planned and in the end. I replaced ALL brake lines (hard and soft); couldn't get the rear discs to work because my rear end is not a C clip type axle; rear upper trailing arm bushing turned out to be a 64, so the Del-Sphere bushing could not be used and I had to use a rubber bushing, and had ABS Power Brakes (Pedro) in Orange make two new and longer front brake lines for the LS1 front brakes to avoid any issues (stock lines were too short).

The powerboosted master cylinder (dual) is a 8" dual and fits nicely.

The front calipers are from a 98 - 2002 Camaro SS. The rotors and pads are Powerstop.

The rear drums were rebuilt with new cylinders (one was bad so I replaced both) and new shoes installed.

The front controls arms are inexpensive eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-6...72.m2749.l2649

I went with Viking coilovers in the front & their 550# springs.

The front end / steering linkage was replaced with the CPP kit.

The rear suspension is Spohn tubular Delsphere bushings (except the pumpkin).

(I previously installed a 12.7:1 jeep steering box.)

Initial driving impressions - the car is a completely different animal. Previously, the suspension was too soft and body roll / movement was excessive. Additionally, the steering was sloppy and not close to precise and had poor road feel. Braking was downright scary, but I still managed to blast the car to high speeds and find a way to stop. Now, the car actually feels like a modern vehicle. Ride quality is amazing (tight and composed), steering is new OEM level with not too much assist and very good road feel (not Porsche 911 or BMW M level, but close), and braking is just awesome. Yesterday I did a little fun run with the top down and found a wanker in a modified BMW. He was quite surprised that I had no trouble sticking with him in the turns and that the goat or "boat" as he called it stopped so well.

I still need to play around with the compression and rebound a little bit, but in quick summary this setup ROCKS!
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1965 GTO Convertible 3 speed tri-power drum brakes originally

Current setup:
400 cu in with tri-power
4 speed Muncie
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post #27 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 06:29 AM
 
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Nice, once you get the coilovers set to your liking, you will really start to enjoy it. I have mine set for medium compression and a little stiff on the recoil. The car corners fantastic, with no perceivable body roll and is really tight in turns.


Your doing great work, now drive and enjoy.
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post #28 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 09:41 AM
 
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Garage
So how does that engine run? No stumbling or running out of fuel?
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post #29 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
 
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So how does that engine run? No stumbling or running out of fuel?
No fuel problems at this time (although I'd love to convert the setup to e85 so I could run 10.5+ compression ratio). The car seems to run quite well given its age / era / technology.

I will be posting a video shortly of my AFRs (cold idle, warm idle, and then a run through the gears).

1965 GTO Convertible 3 speed tri-power drum brakes originally

Current setup:
400 cu in with tri-power
4 speed Muncie
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post #30 of 49 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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Well today I began to address body & rust issues. At this point, I believe my only areas of concern are in the rear - trunk, lower quarter panel, and wheel wells. It appears someone did a hack job repairing rust before and cut out parts of the wheel well and welded in small panels. Additionally it appears there are several areas in the trunk on the drivers side, where the floor has pin holes or larger areas of rust.

I am disappointed as I don't know how to weld, so I am a bit concerned on talking this job myself.

My questions are as follows:

(1) For the rear wheel wells - what is the best way to fix the rusted areas? Do I need to remove the quarter panel to replace the wheel well? Should I just try to blend in a new wheel well and then spray with a rubberized paint (protect and mask)?

(2) The rear quarter appear to have a lot of bondo / putty on the lower section, but I don't believe 65' convertible full panel are available. Should I just cut out the metal and replace with patch work?

(3) The trunk looks good for the most part. What is the best way to replace the section that is rusted out - fiberglass, putty, or do I need to cut out the whole section and replace with a panel?

Since I am not skilled with welding, what would something like this cost to have done?

Thanks
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1965 GTO Convertible 3 speed tri-power drum brakes originally

Current setup:
400 cu in with tri-power
4 speed Muncie
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  Pontiac GTO Forum > The 1964-1974 Pontiac Tempest, Lemans & GTO > 1964-1974 Tempest, LeMans & GTO Projects, Barn Finds & Restoration Discussions

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