Restoring my 1968 Convertible-Voodoo II - Page 23 - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #221 of 239 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 08:43 PM
 
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You're fearless. It looks awesome. I don't know how you'll be able to part with it. I don't think I could with so much sweat equity invested.

DK

<)))>><

"Pray as though everything depended on God. Work as though everything depended on you." - Saint Augustine
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post #222 of 239 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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You're fearless. It looks awesome. I don't know how you'll be able to part with it. I don't think I could with so much sweat equity invested.
Thanks. Not sure what will happen later. They all are a labor of love....and in the end it's just a car like all the others.

Like a cloud with a silver lining, this car lost it's original engine over 40 years ago so now I can work the SR engine as hard as I want without losing much sleep. That could be kinda fun after all.


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post #223 of 239 (permalink) Old 12-23-2018, 12:33 PM
 
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Found your old Willys Gasser!
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post #224 of 239 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
 
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Day 113 Assemble Engine

With the holidays in the past it is time to get the tools back out and build something. I figured it was a good time to assemble the engine so I got started on it. Not going to get into the step-by-step here.....there is plenty of good reference materials available for those that want to build an engine. I have built plenty of Pontiac engines in the past but it has been about 30 years since my last build so I had to dig out my notebook and refresh my memory. Lucky I am one of those people that never tosses out my old stuff for those "just in case...." situations. I was pleasantly surprised with the excellent machine work on the block and crank. The clearances were almost exactly as I requested. I don't know if it's due to the skill of the machinist or the equipment he was using (or both) but he did a very very good job.

1968 GTOs would normally have 2 bolt main 400 cubic inch blocks with cast pistons and cast rods. This car was ordered with the optional L67 (Ram Air) engine so it would have originally been fitted with a 4 bolt main block, forged pistons and cast rods. The engine I built is 4 bolt main, forged pistons and forged rods. A purist would likely have used cast rods but this is a service replacement engine anyway so I wanted the stronger rods for peace of mind. I did have the rotating assembly balanced...which is something I always do anyway so it should run pretty good.

In 1968, manual transmission cars received more aggressive camshafts than the automatic cars. This car, being a RA II manual trans would have had the 9794041 camshaft which later became known as a RA IV cam since that is the engine that most people associate the "041" cam with. So, you can stump your friends at your next Pontiac gathering with the knowledge that the "041" was first used in 1968 RA II manual trans cars (GTOs and Firebirds). I ordered a camshaft from Comp Cams that is supposed to be an exact copy of the "041" and it appeared to be perfect. I installed it straight up and it degreed perfectly.
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post #225 of 239 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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Day 116 Install Engine

Engine assembled and painted. Moved onto rebuilding the M21 close ratio transmission and getting it all ready for the car. I wasn't able to restore the shift linkage due to a problem with my electroplating equipment. I will have to circle back to that later. The original shifter linkage and levers had the golden dichromate plating....similar to what you see on power brake boosters from the same era. I wanted to get the power train installed into the car anyway so I forged ahead.

Little trick to keep the crank from rotating when tightening down the flywheel and flexplate is to install some angle clips at the lower bell housing bolt holes. I put the clips on both sides since it's easy enough to do.

I could not find original exhaust manifolds that were in usable condition so I ordered a set of reproduction manifolds from Ames. They seemed to fit very nice. Engines with this style of exhaust manifolds would have a protective tube for the positive battery cable since it is routed behind the manifolds, up against the engine block. Not really ideal, but it's how Pontiac did it....not sure what choice they had though. At any rate, I am using a 1970 SR block cast in Dec of 1969 so it has a couple of extra motor mount bosses that the original 1968 engine would not have had. The unused motor mount boss held out that tube so it contacted the exhaust manifold so the tube had to be "clearanced" on the backside in order to achieve an air gap between the tube and the manifold. I presume the same issue would apply to 1970 RA IV engines, unless they had a slightly different shaped tube?

Will try and keep more updates coming. It's becoming more difficult to participate on this forum since I have a hard time logging in from any of my mobile devices and it's super duper slow during those times that I am able to connect. My laptop works fine though so I will have to remind myself to sit down and post some updates from time to time.
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post #226 of 239 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 03:19 AM
 
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Wow! Amazing thread and amazing work. I hope my 68 conv turns out just as fine!
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post #227 of 239 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 01:30 PM
 
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Very nice! You wouldn't happen to have a pic of the underside of hood do you? Just wondering how the ram air hood looks for the ram air set up on a '68.
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post #228 of 239 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
 
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Very nice! You wouldn't happen to have a pic of the underside of hood do you? Just wondering how the ram air hood looks for the ram air set up on a '68.
I believe I documented the hood trimming in some detail earlier in this thread. 1968 Ram Air cars (both RA I and II) shipped with a standard hood, closed scoops and standard air cleaner assembly. The ram air pans and open scoops shipped with the car...possibly in the trunk. Those pieces were installed at the dealership in most cases. Portions of the under hood bracing needs to be trimmed for the hood pan to fit. It isn't too complicated. My original hood was very rough cut....almost looked like they used a can opener in some spots.

The owner was expected to install the closed scoops and standard air cleaner in inclement weather. I doubt anyone actually did that. I can't imagine what it would be like to drive one of these things when it's pouring out. The 4.33 gear set is bad enough in the dry....

Check out those pics....it should tell the story.
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post #229 of 239 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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Day 118 pedal assembly

Pulled out the pedal assembly to clean it up for installation. It was simple and easy. All the plastic bushings were in great shape and cleaned up nice. Not sure what I would have done if any of those things needed to be replaced.

Disassemble
Soak in 50/50 mix of white vinegar and distilled water.
Gently scrub away the rust with a soft brush (toothbrush etc)
Paint and reassemble

There is a photos when the parts first went into the solution....another photo a hour or so later and then the last photo after soaking overnight. With the rust dissolved away....the witness marks for the black paint was observable on the pedals. It is clear to me that the clutch and brake pedals were dipped in a container of black paint. Same as the parking brake. The parts were dipped prior to building the parking brake assembly or the main pedal assembly. Just a little trivia for anyone who is interested.

The stainless foot pad bezels polished up nice and easy. Love stainless parts....they are almost always able to be restored to better than new condition.

I lost my photo of the pedal assembly when finished. Sorry about that. I am sure a completion image will appear in a future posting.
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post #230 of 239 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
 
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Day 119 driveshaft

New U-Joints in the drive shaft.
Added the color bands per the shop manual. There is a page in there that defines the colors. I guessed on the size and location of the stripes.

Last photo is the bearing separator tool configuration that I used to set the preload on the U-Joint bearing caps. When pressing those on, the cross shaft trunion has pressure on one of the caps. That pressure should be relieved for a nice smooth operating joint.
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  Pontiac GTO Forum > The 1964-1974 Pontiac Tempest, Lemans & GTO > 1964-1974 Tempest, LeMans & GTO Projects, Barn Finds & Restoration Discussions

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