Restoring my 1968 Convertible-Voodoo II - Page 3 - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #21 of 243 (permalink) Old 02-20-2018, 10:17 PM
 
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No speaker in rear. Is that where factory mounted rear speakers in the convertible? I will snap some pictures of the interior, it all original except front seat cover (legendary nice quality) . I am worried about my quarter panels. I know by paint they are original but they have been filled with 1/2 inch of filler covering accident ( crazy the amount of filler they used) which lead to water sitting and rust. ( at least it not salt rust which is what we get up here in the NE.) As I am sure you know they do not reproduce the convertible quarter panel. I'm going to try to patch mine as i have a mess . I will
PM some pictures to you .looking forward to help you and I'm sure you csn help us . Doug
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post #22 of 243 (permalink) Old 02-20-2018, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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Day 4: Floor replacement continues...

Peeling the sheet metal away from the braces is pretty simple. The method I use is to use an angle grinder with a wire wheel to locate the spot welds. I then center punch each weld, drill it out with an 1/8" bit and then use a hole saw type spot weld cutter with the pointed centering tip. The centering tip is spring loaded so in theory all you really need to do is center punch the weld and the spot weld cutter should remain located in the weld but it never works that way for me. After several broken bits....I have learned it's better to pre-drill the hole and then my cutters last much longer. I then use a thin chisel on an air hammer to separate the metal. Usually works pretty well.

Found a date stamp on one of the floor braces. Z18 I think "Z" is the stamping machine or station...18 is for the week of the year. My car was assembled in the 21st week so most all the stamped panels that make up the body were made in the 17th, 18th or 19th week. The windshield frame was the 16th week...that was the earliest date I found on any of the parts.

Before I cleaned up for the weekend, I tried a test fit on the floor to mark my cuts for the perimeter. The replacement floor had a small lip that folded down against the inner rockers and that was causing a conflict with the fit so I ended up trimming it off and the floor fit was nearly perfect. This pretty much wraps up my second weekend on the job. Many more to go...
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post #23 of 243 (permalink) Old 02-21-2018, 02:09 AM
 
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Looking good,very nice on the floor, I’m going to have to do that same thing on the ‘73, the difference being they don’t offer a one piece floor like yours or atleast that I’m aware of, I have to do some reach and see if there is anything out there that would be a close replacement
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post #24 of 243 (permalink) Old 02-21-2018, 09:00 PM
 
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Excellent work, photos, and description as to what you are doing and how. A super way to guide others in similar situations. Like all the bracing which is a must for a convertible or any body not supported by its frame.

On the quarters, I would try and work with them. My brother owned a '67 GTO when we we younger. it had been rolled on the drivers side. The fender/door had been replaced, but the quarter panel had a ton of bondo. I was able to work a lot of the damaged panel out and use a minimum of filler on the quarter panel. I think he owned it about 10 years before selling it and there was never an issue - remained just as good as when I first did it.

Keep posting, you make it look all too easy! Do you work for one of those TV shows where it'll be finished in about 3 weeks, your hands will never get dirty, your garage floor is spotless, and it'll look like it just rolled out of the factory?
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post #25 of 243 (permalink) Old 02-21-2018, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by PontiacJim View Post
Excellent work, photos, and description as to what you are doing and how. A super way to guide others in similar situations. Like all the bracing which is a must for a convertible or any body not supported by its frame.

On the quarters, I would try and work with them. My brother owned a '67 GTO when we we younger. it had been rolled on the drivers side. The fender/door had been replaced, but the quarter panel had a ton of bondo. I was able to work a lot of the damaged panel out and use a minimum of filler on the quarter panel. I think he owned it about 10 years before selling it and there was never an issue - remained just as good as when I first did it.

Keep posting, you make it look all too easy! Do you work for one of those TV shows where it'll be finished in about 3 weeks, your hands will never get dirty, your garage floor is spotless, and it'll look like it just rolled out of the factory?
Thanks for the compliments....I really wanted to rework and save the qtr panel but the damage was way past my skill level. Will be interested to see if you agree when I get around to posting those pics. Disappointing because it would be nice to claim the car has all its original exterior body panels but it just wasn't workable for me.

I was approached by a production company that wanted to document the restoration but that didn't pan out. They had a schedule in mind and I don't work with schedules.....the car tells me how long it will take and there is no debating it. Plus I would have to do all the work at my shop and that was a problem for me because then it would feel like a job. I like doing what I can at home and spend the weekend that way. It sounds funny but when I am at home, it doesn't feel like work for some reason.
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post #26 of 243 (permalink) Old 02-22-2018, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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Day 5: Trim floor to fit

Noticed another date stamp….it was in the dash near one of the holes for the radio knob shaft. This one reads “6814 X19”. I presume 6814 relates to a part identification number….X (stamp station?)….19 is 19th week of 1968. At first whenever I would come across a date stamp I would document it with a photo. I later found many more of these after the body came back from media blasting so the novelty quickly wore off by then.

Picking up where I left off, I trimmed the floor and set it in place to see if the bolt holes lined up. The outer holes by the rockers were dead on but the two belt anchor holes on the transmission hump were off. Not that uncommon with reproduction panels so I marked in white pen where I might need to relocate those holes. I then checked underneath and noticed some gaps between the floor and the braces so I clamped them both together and the belt anchor holes lined up much better. I guess the reproduction floor fit pretty darn nice after all and it was just ‘operator error’ at work here.

I spent some time with a wire wheel and removed the surface rust on the rear seat pan. It looked nice and solid so I just needed to scribe a cut line to join the two floor sections together. As luck would have it….I found the original rusted out seat pan in the trunk and it had the original seat belts and reinforcement plates. I took photos to document how the belts were attached, made note of the little plastic retainers for the rear arm rest cover lamp fixture wire harness and then proceeded to salvage the seat belt anchor reinforcement plates so I could relocate those to the car.
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post #27 of 243 (permalink) Old 02-22-2018, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
 
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Day 6.1: Weld Floor in place

After what must have been a dozen fittings….everything was all trimmed and ready for welding. Good time to prime the braces so they can resist future corrosion. I use a heavier body rust oxide primer down inside the braces and then mist the flanges with weld thru primer for the plug welds to come.

With the pan clamped down in place, I can get underneath and scribe around all the braces then I pull the pan out, measure in a little bit for the ½” flange and pre-drill some holes for plug welding. I try and plug weld in the same sort of spacing as the original spot welds were placed. I do have a spot welder but it’s not able to do this job…..would need longer tongs and more clamping force since the braces are heavy gauge metal. For this purpose….wire feed plug welds will work and look the part when finished.

Test fit the pan for the last time to verify all the holes are placed correctly and check that the braces is up against the bottom. I use a wire to poke in each hole to check the depth. Also want a thin gap where I am butt welding the two pans together at the rear seat brace. It’s not shown in the photos but I used a disk sander to clean off the E coat before welding that rear seam.
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post #28 of 243 (permalink) Old 02-23-2018, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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Day 6.2: Weld the floor in place

Another shot showing how nice the bolt holes lined up in the reproduction pan. Double checked a few more things and then broke out the welder…

Plug weld the holes, then grind smooth. Sometimes I have to weld and grind a couple of times to get it right. Sometimes I miss a hole completely….just in a hurry I guess. Eventually the welding is finished and looking decent.

I decided to weld the shifter hump to the transmission tunnel. I think the originals were just screwed on but I wanted mine to be welded. I know it’s not 100% authentic but this is how this one is going to be. Maybe I will run some screws in from the top so it looks correct when viewed from below.
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post #29 of 243 (permalink) Old 02-23-2018, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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Day 7: Weld braces, brackets etc

Next item on deck is to weld in the rear seatbelt anchor plates, rear seat frame brackets and the convertible B pillar braces.

Light coat of black paint to protect the bare metal and then prepare to transport the body and other off parts to get media blasted. Once blasted, I then should be able to inspect the car and determine what needs to be repaired and order the necessary parts. Hopefully it’s not a huge list….
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post #30 of 243 (permalink) Old 02-24-2018, 09:39 AM
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Lookin' good!

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