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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-28-2010, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
 
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starting body work

started blocking the epoxy primer down today, the stuff is like ceramic,I am cutting it down with 80 grit and taking the peel out of it and exposing any low spots, scraping them with a thin coat of filler and sanding down to 120 grit before surfacing primer, plan is two more sand and prime coats before base coat. Question is, what should my final sand be before final primer coat?
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-28-2010, 03:05 PM
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I'm no expert, but when I did mine, my final before the prime coat was 320-400 grit. One thing I found when blocking my '67 was that a very LONG longboard helped get the panels wave free. I used an 18 incher, but now there are even better ones out there. Long longboards really get down to business when doing these cars. Also, they have rounded foam forms at auto body supply houses to use around your wheel housing lips, etc. Have fun.
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-28-2010, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
 
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thanks GeeTee, just picked up 18" board and roll of 150, have foam tube also, thats what i was thinking first block down to 150, second down to 220, final down to 320, color sand base at 400-600 before clear, no expert either, just don't have the cash for a 5000 paint job
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-28-2010, 03:32 PM
 
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sounds like your on the right track.
check here for good info in there forum. How to Paint Your Own Car, Auto Body Discussion Forum and Videos | Learning how to paint your own car and general automotive restoration

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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-28-2010, 03:35 PM
 
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Instg8ter,

The epoxy primer is terrible for sanding! I learned on the first fender I did, to scuff the epoxy primer and then use a 2K (2 part) High Fill Primer over it. It sprays on really thick. It's very easy to sand with a 120 grit and since it is slightly lighter in color you will see the high spots as you sand down to the darker epoxy primer. It truly is amazing how much waviness and imperfections you can eliminate with the high-fill primer.

Since I intended to use a urethane basecoat-clearcoat I chose to use this product for surfacing and block sanding;

Sherwin Williams FP410 and FH411 Hardener

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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-28-2010, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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will be using Matrix 2 part high fill dark gray over the black epoxy and Matrix BC/CC, the 80 grit seems to cut the epoxy down smooth w/o cutting through, figure it will save me a coat of primer if i use it as my guide coat as the epoxy is on there thick and hard as a rock, will shoot some pics tomorrow and post to my photobucket, have one fender blocked down have to go get the primer in the morning and a new compressor as mine decided to take a dump today, just when i need it most. Is removing the bumper at the frame mounts the easiest way? gonna take it one panel at a time so i do not overlook any spots.

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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-28-2010, 04:26 PM
 
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Garage
Yes, Remove the bumpers WITH the frame mounts....as for the prep and paint.....I never touch the stuff. So I can't offer any advice. There are guys on the Performance Years Forum who are very knowledgable in this area. I think Randy (05GTO) did both his cars...... Eric



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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-28-2010, 06:47 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Instg8ter View Post
thanks GeeTee, just picked up 18" board and roll of 150, have foam tube also, thats what i was thinking first block down to 150, second down to 220, final down to 320, color sand base at 400-600 before clear, no expert either, just don't have the cash for a 5000 paint job
with most bc/cc paints it is not desirable to sand the base coat if you shoot clear within the recoat window. i usually wet sand with 400 before the primer sealer and base coat.
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-28-2010, 07:25 PM
 
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using the matrix 2k primer there is no need to go any finer than 180 grit before priming. the key is you dont want any of the 80 grit scratches left so sand them out with the finer paper. when blocking the primer, finer paper (like 320,400 etc)rides over the humps more and doesnt cut things as flat as possible. no need to change grits as you go. block every primer coat with 180 then final sand with what you want to paint over. i like to paint over 600 wet, but i dont usually use sealer. you dont want to color sand the base before you clear it. you might get away with that on black or white or some solid color, but with the metallic blue it will ruin it. however i do like to slide a piece of 1000 grit over my base on the next to last coat to get rid of the trash that has accumulated, then spray on one final coat of base and start blasting clear.


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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-28-2010, 07:40 PM
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I agree with Eric having gone thru this a bunch of times. Use a floor jack and a helper to remove the bumpers. The washers are "keyed" into the frame and are adjustable. You may want to make note of their present position if the bumpers fit fine. I'm an stubborn old school guy with the paint, and I don't like clearcoat on these cars.....too shiny, and not how they looked when new. Also, I have yet to see a clearcoat that will last more than 10 or 12 years. The stuff flakes off like sunburn and you have to redo the whole car. I know that 98% of the pros use base/clear, and I hardly qualify as an amateur, but I like single stage paint jobs on these cars. I've got 26 year old paint on the '65 and 18 year old paint on the '67 and they still look great.
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  Pontiac GTO Forum > The 1964-1974 Pontiac Tempest, Lemans & GTO > 1964-1974 Tempest, LeMans & GTO Projects, Barn Finds & Restoration Discussions

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