Zebart removal - Pontiac GTO Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-22-2011, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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Zebart removal

I searched for Zebart removal but didn't find anything on this site so, I thought I would ask the question; How should I remove the Zebart and other undercoating from the underside of my project?
I guess I was lucky the car was Zebarted, nearly no rust but this is gonna take some time to clean up.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-22-2011, 10:33 PM
 
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coarse sand will bounce right off it...i know (7 bags worth). i left mine and re-hit light areas... I would think some type of solvent or paint stripper would dissolve it but thats nasty and messy. Do not know if soda blasting will touch it. I figured it does the job it was designed for and has preserved the undercarriage for 45 years why fight it, to me it was'nt worth all the work to strip and paint but i did not take the body off the frame either. It also protects from chips and scratches as well as moisture, once the painted frame/underbody gets scratched from stones if you drive it, it will start to rust.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-22-2011, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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Blasting of any sort is a waste of time and materials. All it does is move the goo around. Even steam cleaning takes way too long and still leaves a film. I know diesel will melt it but it stinks and is real messy.
I would leave it if not for the incomplete application around the rear end. That area around the fuel tank and hard to shoot over the spring buckets has a surface rust so, I will be painting the complete underside.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-22-2011, 10:56 PM
 
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dry ice and chip it off give the citrustrip a shot its non toxic and smells like oranges.

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-22-2011, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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Citrustrip, now that is a good idea! Got to start to clear the "old car smell" out anyway.
I wonder if they put it in a steam cleaner form? Not big on dry ice but I could leave the car outside for a few days during in the below 0 deg weather and try the chipping air hammer attachment.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-22-2011, 11:40 PM
 
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dry ice is -80 F i dont think that setting it outside will do it as the worst weather we have is well within the products temperature range. citrus strip brushed on heavy and let set until you see lifting then scrape. I think I have seen dry ice blasters on youtube.

yep


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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-23-2011, 12:06 AM
 
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acid dip body, only way for sure.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-23-2011, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
 
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I do plan on dipping the front clip but not the body. I am told the acid/ striping fluid is very hard to be sure it is out of seams and can come back years later lifting the paint.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-23-2011, 09:10 AM
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My '67 GTO convertible is a Baltimore built car, was registered in Tennessee, and came to California in 1983, when I bought it. The ONLY reason it still has its original floorpans in good condition is because it was Ziebarted when new. The stuff is tough as nails, is a heat and sound deadener, and has preserved my floorpans for going on 45 years now. I have no plans to remove it any time soon........it's part of the car's history.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-23-2011, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
 
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Talk about solid floor pans and rockers, check this out. The Zebart did it's job but the car won't be driven in the winters again or any time soon so off it go's.

I just couldn't do a nice job on the rest of the car and have the bottom look nasty. I'll do my best so not to over restore it.
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