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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 08:54 AM
curtis.smith68 Great idea Jim for the rears for sure! The front's will have my nice Wilwood aluminum hubs protruding through and they look awesome but the rears definitely need something.
06-14-2019 05:44 PM
PontiacJim Looking good. With regards to the rims, I might try to adapt these to those center caps: https://www.ebay.com/p/1967-70-Black...d=370828593882

There are other variations for Pontiac as well.
06-14-2019 08:59 AM
curtis.smith68 I finished up the quarter repair. next is removing the passenger fender and hammering out the couple dents you can see in the below images. It is not perfect, only replacing it would have accomplished that, but it is so much better.

I installed more foam in my fuel cell so starving the fuel pump should be a thing of the past.

Also.... She got to try on her new pair of shoes!!!!! 235/60R15 Cooper Cobra's on Aero racing wheels; 58 series, 15X8 with 4" B.S. So far so good. I love seeing the Wilwood aluminum hub protruding through the center! I need to put my jack under the lower control arm, jack up and actuate the suspension in that corner and turn the wheel to the extremes to be certain I'm not going to rub. Then I'll put the old wheel back on until the body work and paint is done. I'm still a bit nervous but it looks really good. Going from 225/60 to 235/60 made a difference in height too. She was a bit low before with the 3" drop so this should give my cross member and headers some breathing, about an additional 0.5", room from the road.

These wheels require 45Deg chamfered lug nuts so I will get a set of them after I increase the lug studs from 7/16" to 5/8-18".

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]
06-12-2019 11:52 AM
curtis.smith68 I started body work.... This quarter was pretty bad. Clearly something hit here and someone did a quick and dirty hammer job pounding it out. I've spent a couple days hammering and doing some light filler layering and finally have it to an acceptable point. I'm nervous hammering it any more as the metal is work hardening and I don't want to thin it out to the point of oil canning. I also lightly DA sanded the whole car, which currently has epoxy all over, in pep for final paint.

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

The other day I found a huge leak in my electrical fuel pump, it was about 15 years old and had too much run time without fuel to cool and lubricate the shaft seal and it finally went. I was able to find some replacement seals and got that back up and running, it also quieted the pump down a little... go figure.

In other big news... I finally pulled the trigger on all of my wheels and tires. I think I read every forum out there on tire size and back spacing on GTO's. Even still I am terrified I will have an issue with fit and then need to try selling mounted tires and wheels. I intend on making a separate post if I am able the get a good fit with this setup as I know there are a lot of people asking the question.... how big can I go?

This is the exact combo I will be mounting...

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]
05-20-2019 12:37 PM
curtis.smith68 Progress...

Electrical is 99.99% done. All is wrapped up and tucked away. The last to do with electrical is replace bulbs and find a good location for my fuel cutoff switch. either hidden under the dash or under the drivers seat. It's a great feeling having replaced the entire electrical system and have it all up and running properly.

Once I finished the clean up of the electrical I moved on to applying a topcoat to my floor pan and set the gaps on the front bumper and fenders. Now that I have the fenders and bumper where I want them I'll mark them and remove the fenders for paint. I'll start sanding and priming as soon as I can. Maybe I'll take her for another test drive first to get it out of my system before removing the fenders. I can attest to one thing... adjusting the Endura bumper is anything but easy. They are damn heavy and if things aren't marked somehow before removal, which mine wasn't... it's a PITA to get it back.

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]
05-16-2019 11:49 AM
curtis.smith68
Quote:
Originally Posted by PontiacJim View Post

If I went black, I would black out all the chrome as you pointed out. Except, I think I would keep the lower chrome on the rocker panel so it gives the body a "visual break" from the road surface. If you did not like it, then keep it, but black it out rather than remove it completely as it will add a little "texture."

Here are a couple pics. First one I thought about. Shiny black base, but all the areas you see in white, go with matt black to contrast with the gloss black.

Shiny Black '69 has the front air dam from a 1970 Judge added.
Yeah man! I agree. I also really like the look of a front air dam/spoiler. I would love to see what I can find to get in that location. I'm not afraid of fabricating something but I have seen some 68/69's with various different chin spoilers...

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]
05-16-2019 08:09 AM
curtis.smith68
Quote:
Originally Posted by PontiacJim View Post
Thanks for the info. Should be of help to a few. However, the info is good enough to create a new Thread. Your info may get buried and not found. Maybe repost it under something titled "Cooling Options" and in this way perhaps other members will add their set-up.
.
Good point. I'll get some more pictures on the system with respect to installing, fabricating brackets, wiring, etc.... Which Forum would you recommend I post it to? "1964-1974 Tempest, Lemans & GTO Complete Engine Compartment Discussion" maybe?
05-15-2019 06:04 PM
PontiacJim Thanks for the info. Should be of help to a few. However, the info is good enough to create a new Thread. Your info may get buried and not found. Maybe repost it under something titled "Cooling Options" and in this way perhaps other members will add their set-up.

The Chevelle blacked out is what I was considering as well. Of course, he stole my rim idea. I am not sure I want black anymore as I keep coming up with other paint schemes as well.

If I went black, I would black out all the chrome as you pointed out. Except, I think I would keep the lower chrome on the rocker panel so it gives the body a "visual break" from the road surface. If you did not like it, then keep it, but black it out rather than remove it completely as it will add a little "texture."

Here are a couple pics. First one I thought about. Shiny black base, but all the areas you see in white, go with matt black to contrast with the gloss black.

Shiny Black '69 has the front air dam from a 1970 Judge added.
05-15-2019 11:52 AM
curtis.smith68 Cooling system update...

So after finally squaring away my temp gauge and sensor I was able to get good temp readings. I had been suspicious of the new 4600cfm double fan setup I was using. The system never stayed on for more than 30sec-1min. Now that I have a working gauge I was able to find out why. So between the BeCool aluminum radiator with double 1" flat tube cores, Flex-A-Lite Direct Fit double fan and BeCool coolant my system is so efficent it never needs the fans on for more than a few seconds before the temp plummets below the set point. The system has some intelligence too in that the fans turn on at 60% speed at set point and then they move to 100% fan speed if the temp increases 10degF above set point. Only in my system I have it set to come on at around 180F and a few seconds after the fans are on the gauge is reading 170F. An aside; my temp sensor is mounted in the head and not the intake near the goose neck. The thermistor for the fans is wedged in the radiator fin pack, I'm not too thrilled with this design but it works, and it's up as near to the return line port as possible. Coolant flow seems to be good too. Not too slow or too fast so I believe I'm getting good heat transfer.

I am toying with the idea of putting in another gauge to monitor oil temp in conjunction with water temp so I can better monitor the actual block temp if my coolant system isn't transferring as much heat as I believe it is.

I easily could have spent way more than I did for these two components as I looked through all the options. I think all in all I dropped $800, which includes coolant, fans, anode and radiator, and I don't see how spending any more would have gained me anything in the form or efficiency in heat transfer. I am extremely pleased with this setup and highly recommend it.

The fans were fun installing as they are universal and they assume there is something near by them vertically or horizontally to conveniently mount the adjustable universal mounting brackets to but this was far from the case in my experience. The core support does not have much in the way of mounting provisions once you wad the radiator in. It's a bit bigger and takes up all the free space.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-295
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bci-10008
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bci-25001

Also with all of the aluminum in my cooling system in the presence of an electrolyte and in contact with steel, installing a sacrificial anode gives me a lot of peace of mind. In the beginning of this restoration when I opened up the engine I noticed my new water pump housing/timing chain cover was pitted really badly around where the coolant passages are. I was really upset about this and had no idea the galvanic corrosion was happening so I did 10 minutes of reading and found this.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-32060
With the coolant being in direct contact with raw cast aluminum and iron, it's the perfect recipe for galvanic corrosion. I no longer have a petcock in my radiator for draining conveniently but I also don't have to worry about loosing some expensive and vital components due to internal corrosion.
05-15-2019 09:46 AM
curtis.smith68 I'm so glad it's been raining all month... my mud was starting to get dehydrated.

Closer and closer. Tail light issue solved. Rear bumper brackets painted and rear bumper reinstalled. My wiring is all buttoned up under the dash now. I have under the dash courtesy lamps now, thanks to the complete wire harness replacement, when I never had them before, all I need are some bulbs. I think I'm going to go through and replace all the incandescent bulbs with their LED equivalents, inside and out. AMES sells a few and so does Diode Dynamics, which is a very high quality brand but also very expensive relatively speaking. AMES also sells the LED flash relays that are needed when replacing turn and hazard incandescent bulbs with LED's or you will get a rapid flash. I did this on my VW and I absolutely love the results. Most of them can be found through various different vendors other than those two also. As I wait for summer to get here I will continue prepping for paint and finish up the last re torque I have left which are the header nuts.

Road worthy to-do list:
-Paint
-Wheels/Tires
-relocate fuel pump
-install fuel cell foam
-fabricate heat shield between headers and upper control arms, I'll probably hit up a pick-n-pull and take a heat shield from some car, trim to fit and away I go.

Once those things are wrapped up I would feel comfortable getting her registered and insured and start more extensive test drives. There is still a lot more to do after that like;
-weather stripping
-sound dampening/heat barrier, interior.
-sound system
-head liner and a few other interior items
-and all the little detail misc. items that are too long to list...

It is very encouraging... I am so close to being able to take her on the road again. It was around this time last year I started this thread and this weekend will mark the one year point when I got her back from the metal shop as a complete hulk when the real work began. I only was able to work on her for a couple hours after work and on the few weekends I didn't have my boy with me through the summer and yet I was able to get her so far. I have no doubt she will be on the road this year and maybe to a couple parking lot car shows.

The saga continues... stay tuned...

Here is a Chevelle that is painted the same color I'm going with and has the same brands of wheels and tires. Differences I will have are all my trim and rear bumper will be painted. The only parts with a metal shine I will not paint are the grill edges, Pontiac badge on the nose and that's about it I think.

[IMG]Untitled by paradox_69_666, on Flickr[/IMG]
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