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My new GTO has 500 miles on it and I want to change the oil and filter. Did the LS2 GTO comewith Mobil 1 from the factory? Should I use Mobil 1 when I change the oil? Should I stick with an AC Delco filter in case there are any warranty issues down the road?

Thank you!
 

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shadow said:
My new GTO has 500 miles on it and I want to change the oil and filter. Did the LS2 GTO comewith Mobil 1 from the factory? Should I use Mobil 1 when I change the oil? Should I stick with an AC Delco filter in case there are any warranty issues down the road?

Thank you!

Yes, 5w-30, Mobil One.

Why would you want to waste your money? I have had 7 Corvettes, 3 Z06's, and initally, changed the oil on the first three at 1,000 miles. The last 4, at 2,500 and it was STILL as clear as honey.

You will not have any warranyt issues by using other than an OEM filter.

However, the Delco filter UPF44 gold is the better one to use..........
 

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Changed mine at 500, 3000 and 7000. 5w 30 Mobile One fully synthetic.

On the first change I could tell there was some assembly lube in the oil. The 3k and 7k were pretty clear however.
 

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The_Goat said:
Changed mine at 500, 3000 and 7000. 5w 30 Mobile One fully synthetic.

On the first change I could tell there was some assembly lube in the oil. The 3k and 7k were pretty clear however.
Man, I have about 4500 miles on my current change and it is as black as diesel oil. I planned on 5K between changes but this stuff is really ugly. My car must be running alot richer than yours.
 

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JMVorbeck said:
Man, I have about 4500 miles on my current change and it is as black as diesel oil. I planned on 5K between changes but this stuff is really ugly. My car must be running alot richer than yours.
That could also be do to other causes though. If you run your car in areas with high levels of airborne dust/dirt and your air filter isn't good, you will be sucking dirt into the intake where it will mix with the oil on the sidewalls of the pistons. I see this a lot on used oil analysis reports where the air filter is old.
Additionally, if you were previously running a low grade oil and switched to a better oil, say a synthetic with high levels of detergents, the oil may be cleaning previous deposits out of your engine. I have seen this when people switch to AMSOIL on older engines. This is one reason why when switching to a high quality synthetic with older engines, it is advisable to use the Engine Flush to quickly remove the majority of these deposits. :cheers
 

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Subdriver said:
That could also be do to other causes though. If you run your car in areas with high levels of airborne dust/dirt and your air filter isn't good, you will be sucking dirt into the intake where it will mix with the oil on the sidewalls of the pistons. I see this a lot on used oil analysis reports where the air filter is old.
Additionally, if you were previously running a low grade oil and switched to a better oil, say a synthetic with high levels of detergents, the oil may be cleaning previous deposits out of your engine. I have seen this when people switch to AMSOIL on older engines. This is one reason why when switching to a high quality synthetic with older engines, it is advisable to use the Engine Flush to quickly remove the majority of these deposits. :cheers
The goat only has 9K miles on it. Synthetic from the factory, Synthetic for the last 2 changes. I think its gotta be carbon from the mixture.
 

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JMVorbeck said:
The goat only has 9K miles on it. Synthetic from the factory, Synthetic for the last 2 changes. I think its gotta be carbon from the mixture.
With that few miles and synthetic from day one, you're probably right. :cheers
 

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I bought my used 04 GTO Friday, with 3214 miles on it. Today at 3500, miles I decided to check the oil. It was black, so it had never been changed. I changed it, and sure enough all the bolts were tight, and it looked like they had never had a wrench on them. Whats with that darn pan guard anyway? I would have liked to have changed the oil at 2,000 miles, but I guess when you buy used you take some risk. The guy probably traded it in at the BMW dealer because he couldn't find the oil drain plug. :D
 

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My '05 had 23 miles on it when I drove it off the lot. See my thread about LS-2 engine break in.

I changed oil at 624 after the break-in cycle I noted.

Immediately improved mileage, engine breathing and sound.

I've had guys tell me it's a waste to change oil more frequently than specs. I completely disagree.

It's a fact that the newer, cleaner and fresher the oil is, the better for the engine. That is indisputable.

While changing the oil every one hundred miles might be extreme -- unless you were doing extreme driving -- the factory recs are a balance of consumer economy, consumer laziness, and engine life... and are made with a conservative eco-mileage-based driving style figured in some lab.... not in real-life driving.

So... my rec is, if you're gonna smack your Goat in the a$$, you better change that oil more often than factory.

Clean oil, clean air, good cooling, good gas... the four bedrock fundamentals upon which ANY engine's performance is built, regardless of what else is done to her.
 

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danrieke said:
My '05 had 23 miles on it when I drove it off the lot. See my thread about LS-2 engine break in.

I changed oil at 624 after the break-in cycle I noted.

Immediately improved mileage, engine breathing and sound.

I've had guys tell me it's a waste to change oil more frequently than specs. I completely disagree.

It's a fact that the newer, cleaner and fresher the oil is, the better for the engine. That is indisputable.

While changing the oil every one hundred miles might be extreme -- unless you were doing extreme driving -- the factory recs are a balance of consumer economy, consumer laziness, and engine life... and are made with a conservative eco-mileage-based driving style figured in some lab.... not in real-life driving.

So... my rec is, if you're gonna smack your Goat in the a$$, you better change that oil more often than factory.

Clean oil, clean air, good cooling, good gas... the four bedrock fundamentals upon which ANY engine's performance is built, regardless of what else is done to her.
I think you are wrong about the oil change intervals recomended by manufacturers. The GM oil life monitor takes all conditions into account. I know of people that have had their oil life monitor trigger because of time. Also when I had my Corvette, it tells you percent of oil life remaining. I would take it racing and in a few miles see 6% of the oil life come off. Right now I have almost 6,000 miles since my last oil change. The oil still looks honey colored and I have not had to add any. I'm just going to follow the oil life monitor. IMO the computer analyzing all my driving variables knows more than just a blanket 2500 miles. Sure 2500 miles is safe, but like you said, if 2500 miles is great 100 must be better. Where is the line for diminishing returns.
Here is something else for you to think about. Your brand GTO came across the ocean on a boat with lots of moist air. It then was loaded on a train, after sitting at the port for 2 weeks. By the time it got to your dealer the oil was already 3 months old. Lets say it sat on your dealers lot for a month. If you drive the car only on weekends and put 200 miles a week on it, at the 1000 mile mark your oil is 5 months old. I worry about the 5 months more than miles. Especially under those conditions. IMO it is much harder for a car to sit for extended periods of time than to be driven hard regularly.
 
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