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Xman said:
I was thinking of using 5mm wheel spacers but think it would be better to replace the existing studs with ones that were also 5mm longer so I still get all the threads needed to keep the wheels torqued right. Adding the spacer should be no different than getting aftermarket wheels with less offset to solve the strut rub issue. Has anyone tried this or know where we can get longer threaded studs?
Ebay!
 
mike18228 said:
i have a 2006 m6 wih the stock 18x8 rims and stock tires, what is the biggest size i can put on the rears to get better traction (drag and street)????
dont know the size off hand, but it's more the tier is a summer tire that comes on the stock 18's. I have the 17's those tire stick pretty dam good. they are all season.
 
Great info Man, I have one Question though what would u recommend for the best offset fit for the front and rear?? I will be going with your recommended sizes but what schould I tell my wheel man the offset needs to be .. Thanks for the awsome info:party:
 
05goat great info, I was looking for that, I have a 06 GTO and just purchased 18x8's for the front and 18x9's for the rear, from boze alloy. When talking the tech there he said I can go with 245x40x18's for the front and 275x35x18 for the rear and have no problems, it would be the same rolling diameter. I had posted asking this question yesterday but didn't see 05goats post till now. Thanks for the info. Once I receive my weels and get everything on the car I will post pictures.
 
Change tire size to eliminate strut rub?

So, not being a tire man and all. I get confused reading all that aspect ratio junk. In order to eliminate front strut rub could I replace my front tires from 245/45/17 with either:

a) 235/45/17
b) 245/40/17

Will replacing them with these numbers cause the speedo to be off?
Can I use the same rim if I were to change to one those tires?
I recall seeing a wheel calculator but now I can't find it.
 
good tire/wheel info....

great info, 05GOAT.....sounds like u know ur stuff....i will be picking up a '06 with 17" stockers...was thinking of either just replacing wheels(17")...or replacing all with 18"....not racing, so i like the 245/40x18 size all around...which i hope wont rub up-front*_*
 
I was thinking of using 5mm wheel spacers but think it would be better to replace the existing studs with ones that were also 5mm longer so I still get all the threads needed to keep the wheels torqued right. Adding the spacer should be no different than getting aftermarket wheels with less offset to solve the strut rub issue.
Before I tried any modifications or aftermarket wheels as I was thinking in my prior post, I went and had a wheel alignment done to Pedder's recommendation. I've now have -0.3 degrees camber and a fresh set of 245s on the stock 17 inch wheels. I rotated them last weekend after 5000 miles and had absolutely no indication of strut rub. The only other aspect that has changed other than the alignment to Pedder's recommendation was the addition of SuperPro Poly strut rod bushings. I didn't need the longer studs or taller aftermarket wheels with more offset - just a proper alignment to fix the -1.3 degrees of negative camber the car came with plus the incorrect toe. Sometimes it worth trying the easy less expensive solutions first.
 
The reason people want the 18's is obvious visual appeal. I was the same way. then while talkin to a local rim shop owner he described that the 17's rims are smaller in size but the amount of rubber that touches the pavment is more in turn more traction.. that is why i went with the 17's for the winter. able to have more traction and its a heck of a lot better than the nitto 555r on snow with the salt eatin my chromes.. Im polishin up the chromes and storin them in the warmth till spring.
 
For whatever reason, Holden didn't make the wheel wells particularly roomy. There's only so much tire that'll fit. Think of the wheel well as a room with a vaulted ceiling that peaks in the middle: It gets narrower as you go upward. When you go from a 17" wheel to an 18" wheel, therefore, you have to go to a slightly narrower tire.

I've got the 17s on my GTO, and I'm happy to have the extra 10 millimeters of tread width. Some people like the look of bigger wheels, though--even if it means a narrower tire.

Check out an article in the current edition of Car and Driver in which they test an SLP-modified GTO and Corvette. The mods added 55 horsepower to the GTO, but because SLP also switched to some snazzy-looking 18" chrome rims on Nitto tires, the car was scarcely faster than a bone-stock GTO on 17" rims.

i was wondering if you could tell me where this article is.. what month?? I have a subscription to car and driver... but have not seen this article..
 
Cut Fenders

Some can...others won't. Here's the deal... I know that I can do it. I have confidence in myself, but I don't have the confidence in a body shop that I don't know. The price of the tool ($250) is close to the amount a body shop will charge to do the work. I can sell the tool (anyone interested???) and make back most of my money.

Here's a link to the tool that I bought... http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=6159&itemType=PRODUCT

The link give a good picture of what needs to be done.

I only have the fender lip hitting. It is very close to the strut and wheel well, but as far as I can tell, it is only the fender lip. I guess that I'll know more once the fender lips are no longer hitting.

I had a body shop cut my fenders for $20 each...looks fine. A fender roll on this car may not totally do the trick. And you can't cut or roll all the way around because you run out of lip on the fender.
 
Rims

MTI-Houston souped my 06 GTO almost too much. j/k

K&N Air Intake
Kook’s Headers w/ high flow Cats
Corsa Catback Sport Exhaust
Pedders Touring Suspension Package

Tuned and Dyno’ed at 370 rwhp, calculated out to be 450 hp at the motor. That is another 40 rwhp for a total of 50 added hp.

It’s pretty damn squirrelly. So now I need tires and wheels. I am going to purchase Michelin Pilot Sport PS2’s but I am still researching Rims. MTI suggested either Fikse FM/5’s or CCW SP500’s.

I read somewhere else that the largest sizes that will fit are:

Front: 18 x 8.5 - 255
Rear: 19 x 9.5 - 275

But in another post here by “05Goat” he highly recommends:

Front: 18 x 8 – 245/40/18
Rear: 18 x 9 – 275/35/18

FM/5’s or SP500’s?

It would be nice to have a little bit of everything: 1) small sidewalls for handling, 2) surface area so I can take it to the strip once to see what it will do, and 3) a reasonable ride on the highway (I-10 in west La. is pretty rough!)
 
The reason people want the 18's is obvious visual appeal. I was the same way. then while talkin to a local rim shop owner he described that the 17's rims are smaller in size but the amount of rubber that touches the pavment is more in turn more traction.. that is why i went with the 17's for the winter. able to have more traction and its a heck of a lot better than the nitto 555r on snow with the salt eatin my chromes.. Im polishin up the chromes and storin them in the warmth till spring.
You should stop by Fairchilds and check out the new "chrome" wheels he does for the GTO's. The guy made it sound like they won't corrode at all. 175.00 ea. :cheers
 
Before I tried any modifications or aftermarket wheels as I was thinking in my prior post, I went and had a wheel alignment done to Pedder's recommendation. I've now have -0.3 degrees camber and a fresh set of 245s on the stock 17 inch wheels. I rotated them last weekend after 5000 miles and had absolutely no indication of strut rub. The only other aspect that has changed other than the alignment to Pedder's recommendation was the addition of SuperPro Poly strut rod bushings. I didn't need the longer studs or taller aftermarket wheels with more offset - just a proper alignment to fix the -1.3 degrees of negative camber the car came with plus the incorrect toe. Sometimes it worth trying the easy less expensive solutions first.
Best post yet. Fix the actual problem, (improper alignment) rather than treating the symptom, (tire rub):agree
 
Best post yet. Fix the actual problem, (improper alignment) rather than treating the symptom, (tire rub):agree
Well, if you were in my situation with the tire rubbing on the inner fender and the outer, you know the problem isn't the alignment.
 
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