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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought a 64 GTO convertible in April 2010 out of Missouri. If you're interested you can read about it here:

http://www.gtoforum.com/f12/nice-surprise-26255/

I've been driving if for the last couple of summers. One issue I did notice was the frame had a few soft spots on it. I've been looking for a replacement frame and about a month ago I found this advertised locally and made a deal.



The reason for the purchase was this was sitting under it.



The frame has been blasted and coated, all new front suspension, new brakes, brake lines, fuel line.......... and best of all, a 3:23 Posi rear end.



I figured I'd start a thread detailing the frame swap.



To make things a little more interesting, I'm converting the car from automatic to 4 speed in the process as well as likely going to front disc brakes and a dual reservoir master cylinder. I dropped off the M-21 I have for it at the tranny shop today for them to go over it. If anyone has a floor shift column they want to get rid of, let me know.

I'm parting out the Skylark so if anyone needs any convertible parts among virtually anything else you can think of...... PM me.

I'll try to keep this updated as work progresses. Wish me luck :cheers

Allan
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Can someone tell me which crossmember mount holes are used to locate the crossmember for the 4 speed?

Thanks in advance.

Allan
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've got the M-21 back and picked up a box of 4 speed conversion parts for an "A" body. I've got a little restoration to do on them, but they look OK all in all. Can someone tell me the exact placement of the z-bar bracket onto the frame? Also can I resuse the pedal bracket in the car and just remove the brake pedal arm and replace with the clutch and brake pedals, or do I need to change the mounting bracket also?





I've pretty well run the tank dry in the car, I guess it's time to start tearing this thing apart this week-end. I haven't picked up the flywheel, clutch or pressure plate yet. Would someone also be able to tell me what I should be using here for the 66 421 in the car?

Thanks in advance.

Allan
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Well that sucks. Started diassembly this morning. Pulled off the rocker trim, and then started removing body mount bolts. The first bolt snapped off before it would budge.

Can I get at the caged nuts to spray them with penetrating oil before I start removing them? I know I can get to the 4 at the firewall, how about the rest?

Thanks in advance.

Allan
 

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I had a cage nut spin on me from breaking free. I had to cut a small square hole about 1"x1" with a cutoff wheel. Little bit of welding, grind smooth, cover with carpet and never see it.

I am not sure there is any other way to get the cage nut if its broken off.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So, I've got 3 body bolts to deal with to free the body, but the front clip is ready to come off...... Except for the remote mirror cable. Can someone advise as to whether the remote toggle assembly is supposed to fit through the firewall opening (it doesn't). I need to deal with this so I can remove the clip...... then there might be some photos worth posting.
Here's one as a teaser.



Thanks in advance.

Allan
 

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Well that sucks. Started diassembly this morning. Pulled off the rocker trim, and then started removing body mount bolts. The first bolt snapped off before it woudl budge.

Can I get at the caged nuts to spray them with penetrating oil before I start removing them? I know I can get to the 4 at the firewall, how about the rest?

Thanks in advance.

Allan
I am familiar with those bolts. My bolts reduced their diameter by half between the head of the bolt and the thread by corrosion. That is where mine twisted off. Real PITA! Ordered new ones from Ames for about $3.00 each. Enjoying your progression! 421 huh! I remember those 65 2+2's at the drag strip with a slush-a-matic transmission would just clean my clock, often winning their class week after week.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Success

A little bend to the opening in the firewall and success. I need to cut a couple of body bolts on the week-end and the body should be off..... knock on wood..







One thing I haven't mentioned is the car will be going back it's original color of Starlight Black. I have a little work to do to undo a previous color change to white. Will be much easier with the body off the frame.

This also showed up yesterday...... it will help with the conversion.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
421 huh! I remember those 65 2+2's at the drag strip with a slush-a-matic transmission would just clean my clock, often winning their class week after week.
I'm hoping with the rebuilt 4 speed, my '64 will be a little quicker than the 65/66 2+2's :). Even with the crappy two speed auto and the non-posi rear, it had a ton of torque to put down.

 

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I'm hoping with the rebuilt 4 speed, my '64 will be a little quicker than the 65/66 2+2's :). Even with the crappy two speed auto and the non-posi rear, it had a ton of torque to put down.

Here is an article I had saved at the time. 0-60 3.9 Seconds, "An accelerative land vessel par excellence" :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Life kind of got in the way over the last couple of months but I did get some work done over the last week. The bolts are out and everything disconnected with the exception of the emergency brake cable. What is the best way to get the cable unclipped out of the firewall. Once that's done, the body will be off......pictures to follow.

"Edit" - I ended up taking a small hose clamp and sliding it over the prongs on the emergency brake cable, tightened it down and was able to remove the cable......... if anyone was wondering :)

Can someone tell me the correct location for the z-bar frame bracket?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I said in the first post "a few soft spots".......... Holy crap!! The body was almost holding the frame together!! Not only that, bondo patching rust holes in the frame. Unbelievable! Extremely glad I'm doing this.

Kicked the frame with a steel toed boot on.... lightly.



A few more taps with a body hammer....



With the body off the rot is obvious......and much worse than I thought.



With New Years Eve plans, here's where I leave it today.



Hope to pull the engine/transmission tomorrow and get the new frame into the shop, and this piece of crap gone. I drove my kids in this car! The video of the frame flexing at the "steel toed boot" spot by simply pressing down on the rear crossmember is unbelievable.

http://i558.photobucket.com/albums/ss21/knucklessr/64 GTO 421 Tri-power/1D6CE472-0881-468F-9F27-E5508AFF83FC-1251-000001A3F37AEFCE.mp4

Happy New Year to all. :cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I got accomplished today what I wanted to. Engine and tranny out and split. Engine on the stand, paper mâché frame out of the shop, the restored frame in. While the 421 is out I'll be cleaning, repainting, and resealing. Considering how bad the frame was, I'm looking forward to seeing the difference in the drive when it's all back together.









I now need to order gaskets, flywheel, pressure plate, clutch, etc, etc, etc...... :)
 

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Al T,
Wow, that is a great job you're doing. I LOVE the 64's.
can't believe how flexy that old frame was. Amazing. Didn't your door edges jam into the quarters when you hit a bump or accelerate?

I have a convertible that I've converted to 4 speed. The Z bar tab goes on between two frame holes. I'll try to attach a pic.....I have several pix I found on the 'net to help me place mine when I welded it.

Edit: I added another of my frame...with the new tab....it's a 67 but is the same from 64 to 67....

Good luck.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #17
wow.. those pictures of the frame are pretty scary looking. What did you use to pull your body off the frame?
An overhead beam...... It has been well used on numerous occasions. Highly recommended for anyone building a shop.

 

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Discussion Starter #18
Al T,
Wow, that is a great job you're doing. I LOVE the 64's.
can't believe how flexy that old frame was. Amazing. Didn't your door edges jam into the quarters when you hit a bump or accelerate?

Good luck.
Dave
The body was pretty flexy. Definitely understand why! Check out the bondoed over crack on the inside of the frame opposite the "steel toed boot" spot. Crazy!!



The old frame will be chopped up this week-end and sent to the metal recycler. I had originally planned on selling the frame, but now..... not a chance!!

Allan
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
The frame is still here. It just gets better......... I went to remove the rear end this afternoon. Hmmm..... there's no access hole to get at the lower control arm mounting bolt on the driver's side frame rail (which I thought was the good side). A couple of taps with a 2 pound hammer......... WTH! Completely bondoed over!!



What kind of person would "restore" a car this way??

I'm going to cut up the frame tomorrow. Is there anything worth keeping? The boxing plates look OK, rails from the differential back are OK, back crossmember is good also.

The fun continues........

Allan
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Everyday is another surprise on the old frame. I finished removing the rear differential and front suspension........... nice matching front brakes :rolleyes:



Allan
 
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