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Discussion Starter #41
Went to Body shop this AM to check on progress. I think it is coming along a little slow. So they had the passenger trunk down filler sheet metal installed, and they had the passenger side quarter panel hung, and welded on. I put the rear tail piece on and was a little worried because the gap between the are quarter and the tail housing was off like 4 mm. I know these things were never perfect from the factory, but it looked really off. I am not sure how he will align it since it is all welded up. He had strings all over the place and it looked like it was all straight, The guy said they laser measured it and it is as straight as an arrow.

I am not sure what the blue product is but it appears to be some sort of epoxy. It was rock hard but really thin

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Discussion Starter #44
I will look up the size and offset of the rims and tires. But I hate it. the ass end sits up to high and throws the lines off the car. I know the rims were Boss 338 and that they are staggered but I would never by staggered tires or rims again. You cant rotate them and it limits to what you can do down the road. The rear rims and tire diameter was larger than the setup I had and it raises the tail end. I have adjustable shocks in the back so I can mess with it to get the right ride hight but then if I put crap in the trunk it gets stiff and might rub. But if you dont have adjustable shocks your stuck unless you get different springs or leafs. I am actually trying to sell the set up so I can do a smaller tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
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Went to the machine shop today to drop off fuel pump, balancer, water pump, exhaust manifolds and valve covers. OPGI sent me the wrong balancer and I have to send it back, I was lucky to get the order in when I did because it was triple points and that balancer was 200 dollars. Then this morning I managed to forget the water pump , and fuel pump at home. So I only dropped off valve covers and the exhaust manifolds.

I sort of got the feeling he was glad to be getting out of the engine. I know he put a lot of time into it and he says there was not a lot of money in it for him. It certainly lightened my wallet.

I am a little worried because it will be some time before I actually get it into the car and get it started up. He said he used assembly lube on it and will prime the engine. But if it sits for a while I am not really sure what to do. Should I pull the intake manifold and valley pan to pour oil on the lifters and valves? He said not to and it would be ok for 6 months. I just want to make sure I dont ruin the engine.

He sort of gave me a little lecture this morning about NOT using the stock radiator. He made it a point to tell me to go aluminum 3 core and to install a fan clutch and to use DEXCOOL and not use Antifreeze.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
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I went to the body shop today to check on the progress and to drop off some parts.

He had both quarters done, both wheel wells done, and the trunk pan was finished. He had the entire floor pan and all 3 braces cut out. I noticed there were some spots on the sides that were pretty bad. They will need to be cut out and replaced. So the welds on all the tops of all the panels looked good. But the bottoms had overlap and the overlap edge was not welded. I am pretty sure he will clean them up when he spins the car.

I know I have said it a few times but I severely underestimated the amount work this thing would take. But I quite possible picked the worst example of one to restore.

So I pulled the heater box, heater core and steering column out. All the insulation on the firewall was toast so I pulled all that out as well. The heater core actually looked ok. I will probably replace it anyway but think I will get an aluminum one instead. The steering wheel is cracked pretty bad and I am not sure what I am going to do with it yet. I took the whole column out and will have it refurbished.
 

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I love reading your thread. I am restoring a 65' convertible tri power.

Quick question, regrading your steering column. Do you think it is best to install after paint ? And are you going with a collapsible and tilt column or just cleaning the factory unit?

I replaced my steering box with a ~12.7:1 unit for much improved feel and was planning on replacing the column and wheel after paint.
 

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tonyskala: "I know I have said it a few times but I severely underestimated the amount work this thing would take."

PJ, Yep, and so do all those clowns who want to sell rusted/need repairs or non-running cars for $$prices they THINK the car is worth when is should be sold for way below their asking price just so someone might attempt to save it. I can't tell you how often I see "junk" trying to be sold off at these swap meets or on Craigslist for thousands of dollars when they should be sold for $0-500.00 on a good day. This is how some people get way in over their heads thinking they got a "deal" until the time comes to do the rebuild. :yesnod: Does not take long to get upside down on a restoration with a lot of $$ invested and selling it at a big loss.

Make sure you keep taking tons of photos to document the entire process so any future buyer will see exactly what was done and feel confident that it was done right and is worth the asking price.
 

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Discussion Starter #49



I do not have an opinion on removing and reinstalling the column before and after paint. The reason I took it out was I could not break the steering wheel free and get it off. The car was in the air, the floor boards were out and i could stand on the shop floor and get to everything. I could easily get to the bolts so I figured I would just pull it out. But I need to get cracking on it because the called me today and told me they are almost done with all the welding. I have a harbor freight sand blaster but it sucks to use. It makes a huge mess and always clogs. The steering column will not fit in my media cabinet. I might have to rig something up because my seat frames will need to be done as well and those will not fit in my cabinet either.

I am not changing much on the car. The only differences from factory will be aluminum radiator, fan clutch, solid state voltage regulator, petronix ignition, after market radio, radial tires and KYB shocks and struts. Everything else is going to be bone stock. This thing might actually become a trailer queen. It is going to depend on how much my wife likes it when I am done.

SO they have the floor boards and braces done. Looks like they made a series of cuts on the underside to remove rot and replaced those sections.

Since the car was split I would have preferredhttp://www.gtoforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=113001&stc=1&d=1528159703 a 1 piece trunk pan and a 1 piece floor pan. But the parts came with the car when I bought it. I was not about to shell out another 1500 for them since I already had them.

I have training this week otherwise I would have picked up the motor. The guy called and said it was all finished. All I have to do it get the distributor in, the carb on, Fuel pump, water pump and engine mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
I just got back from the machine shop. My engine is done. I am 2K over budget on it.

I know he did a lot of work on it but man this hurts.

So all 8 cylinders have been sleeved. The pistons are .030 over, valve seats have all been hardened. He told me it is better than new and everything is mic'ed and plastic gauged. All the veins have been filled with oil, and it is ready to go. All the specs are good and he said 1 year warrantee no milage limit. He requires new thermostat, and water pump. On the passenger side exhaust manifold there is a butterfly valve on the down pipe. He put a tack weld on it to keep it open because he said the things dont work well and they were more for cold environments. I would have preferred to use a screw to hold it open, especially since finding an original one was not easy. The body shop broke the original bolt flanges when they pulled the motor out. Aside from that I am content with what I think will be a nice engine. I just will not be able to fire it up for a while.

Gave him the new water pump, that back plate, fuel pump new balancer, and shaft. He said he will install it all for me and paint them.

So when I pulled the other block I had apart there was this plate under the water pump. It was cut so the impeller fit through it and then had like a channel towards the side. It looked like it was to channel water flow. Any way this block did not have it. I found one in my garage but do I not know if I need this part. The water pump had been replaced at least 1 time and I am not sure if they just did not put it back on. Does this block need this part?

Any one know if the crank pulley, and the harmonic balancer were painted the Pontiac blue? The 63 block I have it looks like the distributor, the pulley, harmonic balancer, and fuel pump were all painted. Well the top half of the fuel pump was painted. Not sure if this was someone with a can of spray paint or if it came like this.







 

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If this helps, I am looking at a magazine front cover color picture of a 1963 SD421 with factory aluminum cast headers & dual four's. It may have been "prettied up" for the cover shoot with the chrome valve covers.

Harmonic balancer/bolts are painted engine blue, fuel pump is natural finish- no paint, rubber fuel line hoses have the spring-type clamps, blue AC fuel filter with an engine blue hold down ring/clamp, 4-bladed metal fan and pulley are black - bolts are metal/silver finish, starter & solenoid are black (with solenoid clocked at the bottom under the aluminum cast headers), Alt./pulley are natural, Alt. brackets are black -all bolts natural/silver, dipstick handle is engine blue, chrome valve covers each with what looks like about a 2"-2 1/2" chromed tube extension with push-on chrome breather on the drivers side front & mid-valve cover on the passenger side - valve cover hold-down bolts/spreaders painted engine blue.

Inside article shows a 421HO with some differences as it has the standard cast iron exhaust manifolds, painted valve covers with short tube extensions, & black painted push-on breathers, and a black painted pulley on the Alt..
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Went to body shop today. All the rot was cut out and replaced. floor pans, trunk pans, floor braces, bother quarter panels are all done. He told me he is going to send it out to sand blasted again, and when it comes back it will move real fast. He wanted to make sure I had everything lined up when it came back. engine, tranns, seats, interior, top, etc.

He also said it would be better to rubberize the trunk. I wanted it finished smooth and painted the same color as the car, but he said they did the work anticipating the rubberized coating. Meaning they would need to go back clean and sand the welds and then skim coat the floors with filler to make them look like glass. He said it would be extra. So I am thinking the rubberized coating that is tinted to the same color of the car. It will cut down on noise but it will not be 100% correct. I just cannot stomach the overages on all of this. I might just take the less expensive route on this.

He did have this piece he said he was not sure about. So there is a brace of some sort that was only under drivers side front left seat track. The floor pan did not have any holes in it for the bolts tot he seats. He said they can drill them but he thinks this piece is necessary. I can kind of match it up with something from OPGI. But what confuses me is that there was only 1 of them and I would expect 4 of them. A pair for each front seat.

I read somewhere there were for converting bench to bucket seats. But the floor pans in my car had been replaced 1 time before and they were literally screwed in with sheet metal screws. So I am wondering if it was a home novice mechanic job and they just cut some corners.

Any one know if that piece is the seat brace that gets welded in?



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On a secondary note, he is going to bag all the chrome and stainless up for me to take to get straightened and polished and re-chromed in a week.
I called a few places out here and was quoted 800 per bumper. I nearly fell out of my chair. I wanted to stay around 1500 on all the chrome. But this looks like I will be around 2500 for all of it. I know there is a good guys popping up in August in Pleseanton CA and I have seen this guy who comes up from LA that is supposed to be pretty reasonable. going to try to find him and hope he is more reasonably priced.

It appears the rear tail lights are concern because they are pot metal. Everyone says they will do it but not guarantee it. I hope it is not t0o much, because my budget has completely gone over. I think I saw re-pop ones for 600.
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He did have this piece he said he was not sure about. So there is a brace of some sort that was only under drivers side front left seat track. The floor pan did not have any holes in it for the bolts tot he seats. He said they can drill them but he thinks this piece is necessary. I can kind of match it up with something from OPGI. But what confuses me is that there was only 1 of them and I would expect 4 of them. A pair for each front seat.

I read somewhere there were for converting bench to bucket seats. But the floor pans in my car had been replaced 1 time before and they were literally screwed in with sheet metal screws. So I am wondering if it was a home novice mechanic job and they just cut some corners.

Any one know if that piece is the seat brace that gets welded in?



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Yes you should have 4 up front (2 per seat)....If you had just the outers, then your car would be setup for a bench.

I have brand new rails (yours is toast)....I was going to replace mine, but it wasn't necessary....If you want them, PM me an offer.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
Been awhile. I just dropped off all the chrome, aluminum and stainless to get straightened , polished , and anodized. The guy is up here about once a month from LA and he met me in the central valley.

Reason I keep putting this stuff down is I hope someone like me will read it and realize what it costs to do a car properly and how quickly you will go over budget.

So my total was 3200 for 80 pieces. He said it will not be show quality but better than driver quality and it will take a month. He is anodizing the aluminum, taking all the dents and scratches out of the stainless and welding portions of the bumper up.

What I am not doing because it will be new are the badges, door handles, , window roll up handles, and piddly stuff on the interior that came with the kit I got.

Other than he has and is doing everything else including pot metal. The rear tail lights are pot metal and the sun visor brackets are pot metal, along with the center console.
 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
Life keeps getting in the way. The money I had set aside for this project keeps getting raided by the other things in life that keep coming up. I think I am at the point where my excess funds for these projects has diminished to the point where I can only do one project properly. I am pretty sure I am going to have to sell this gold GTO when I am done to do the second one.

California is becoming a place for the extremely wealthy or extremely poor. I am neither so I get squeezed, and well...I have to raid my GTO fund to make the home life work.

Anyway.. not a tremendous amount of progress on my project. Chromer in LA has my chrome and the body guy doesn't want to move past where they are until they get the chrome. I guess to make sure it all fits properly.

The progress that was made was on my interior. I found a guy up in the Sacramento Area who was really reasonable on the price. He custom made extra foam for all 3 seats. The seats on 64 GTO were not that comfortable to begin with. But this extra padding makes a huge difference. And this guy drilled out all the cracks in my steering wheel epoxied them all sanded it all down and got it to the point where I dont think anyone will be able to tell it was ever repaired. He also replaced the seat springs on the driver side front seat, by that I mean replaced them. I was a little disappointed on the tightness of the seat covers but he said the OPGI seats were not really the best for fit. It looks good but I thought it would custom ZZTop tight.... But he told me look they never looked this good coming out of the factory and this was the very best he could do with the materials I got him.

I am pleased. All in on the whole interior was 1,150. That included the rear bench, two front seats, door card assembly, visor assembly, rear sail panels, and the steering wheel. I was responsible for the removal of the old material, sand blasting the frames, painting the frames, and painting and primering the steering wheel. .

Why am I telling all of you this stuff.... Because I hope some one like me who is thinking about doing this and does not have the man skills to do everything themselves will realize that quality work you farm out costs a lot of money, and no matter how well you plan it will take 4 times longer than you think, and cost 3 times as much.

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Discussion Starter #57
Just went by the body shop to check on progress and drop off the seat braces , seats , steering wheel , and steering column. They were blocking the car when I got there. He had all doors on and fit and gapped pretty good. I am glad I went before they painted it because there were 6 holes on each fender for trim that were there because the fenders were off a tempest. I asked home to weld them up. The only thing that is going to be a little different is the trunk is going to be rubberized and he said he will get the rubber tint so it matches the outside of the car. He said they will paint it in 2 weeks,
 

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Discussion Starter #58
The body shop texted me and told me they put another coat of primer on the car. I was confused as to why they would do this. I trust the guy but he keeps doing things I did not know or ever hear about. Granted I know very little about proper body work.

But he did said they will most likely paint the car next week.

I do have a question for the forum

The center console is plastic as is the kick panel. They are both faded and either need to be replaced or repainted. I have never had much luck with Krylon rattle cans on plastic, and wanted to see if he could paint them for me. Also I am not entirely sure on the proper color on a Saddle interior.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
The body shop texted me and told me they put another coat of primer on the car. I was confused as to why they would do this. I trust the guy but he keeps doing things I did not know or ever hear about. Granted I know very little about proper body work.

But he did said they will most likely paint the car next week.

I do have a question for the forum

The center console is plastic as is the kick panel. They are both faded and either need to be replaced or repainted. I have never had much luck with Krylon rattle cans on plastic, and wanted to see if he could paint them for me. Also I am not entirely sure on the proper color on a Saddle interior. Does anyone know the proper paint code for the interior other than 216. I assuming these parts were either dyed when they were made or cast and never intended to be repainted.

Anyone know of a color code in PGP that is close.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Been a while

So between taxes, and new kid things have slowed down a bit.

Body shop called and asked me to pick up the suspension parts to have the bushing pressed out and get everything back to him this weekend.

I trekked down and when I saw the stuff I was really disappointed. He had the frame picked clean and said it is 100% reusable with only a body mount and shock mount point needing metal work. He was not at all concerned about it. He will remove to tow bar that twas bolted in and patch up the holes. 1 trailing arm is bent and when I thought about it the other 3 looked so rough I am thinking it would be best to just buy a complete new set. Upper and lower a arms are also real rough. The the rear axel and housing looks horrible. He said he just wants the bushings preset out before he sand blasts and powder coats this stuff. But the axle will need to be rebuilt. I can see it leaking and I have no idea what is it looks like inside. So I called around and was told by a guy near me 600 to rebuild the rear end. I am not sure if that is a lot of money. He told me 400 in labor alone.

On the rest of the stuff. aside from the sway bar, everything else looks terrible to me and I would think it would be easier to just replace al of it.

He has not painted the car yet. he said he will do the frame first then paint the underside of the car mount it to the frame and then paint the car.

The gaps look really good. Metal work looks good..

In all honesty, my real worry is that I have been hunting for the best pricing I can find which means all my parts are scattered across Northern California. I am worried I lost pieces don't remember who has them and putting this thing back together.

For example - the heater box. I have all the pieces and don't remember how they assemble. I can seem to find a schematic of it.

Also what has been killing me is the cost of these little clips, connectors, screws and bolts. It is nickel and dining me to a hefty sum.


Can Someone on here tell me if 600 is too much for a rear end rebuild?













 

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