Looking good and moving forward. When cold days arrive, that's when you can do sub-assembly work indoors and get some of the smaller pieces and parts disassembled, cleaned, rebuilt, and reassembled ready for when they are needed. I do it this way myself as a means to keep moving forward even if at a snails pace. LOLGot another day of work done on the disassembly. Rear bumper removed and disassembled. Manifold removed and brought home to work on when it’s too cold to go outside. A few other minor items. Removed the gas tank. It had about 7 gallons of gas no less than 5 years old in it. As we poured it out it looked like vegetable beef soup, though it wasn’t quite as chunky.
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That is the way I am leaning, I know what I have all works together - and now that I know the block is a '71 it might make getting a set of headers and gaskets that fit better. Plus, it is the way it has been since the day I bought it. Plus, if I go back to a proper '64, I'd have to give up the dual gate shifter, which is cool.Keep the engine you have. The original is gone and it'll never be original again. You have a good known engine and sometimes replacing what you have with another can become a can of worms, and costly. With a tri-power on top, no one cares what the heads/block are because that is what people look for.
That is the way I am leaning, I know what I have all works together - and now that I know the block is a '71 it might make getting a set of headers and gaskets that fit better. Plus, it is the way it has been since the day I bought it. Plus, if I go back to a proper '64, I'd have to give up the dual gate shifter, which is cool.
My plan is to drive it and though I will take it to car shows and cruise ins - I am not banking on taking the top prize everywhere I go.
If it were serial number 1 or the last '64 to roll of the assembly line for the model year, or had something else that made it a unique example then maybe it would be worth spending the extra dollars to make it correct.
The main issues I had while I was driving it were electrical (the wiring harness has always been a huge mess) and the interior, which was also a bit of a mess when I bought it. Now the main issues I have to deal with is 30 years of sitting, fortunately inside a garage, so I need to remove all the rust and all the rubber bits have turned to rock and or dust. The damaged front passenger fender, the cracked radiator core support, and the rusted out front wheel wells and dirt panels are the biggest parts which are likely going to be easier to replace than to fix.
All the fluids which have come out so far looked pretty good, aside from the upper radiator hose, I had one which the anti-collapse wire inside, which rusted significantly since it was sitting high and dry above a reservoir of water/coolant. I wonder if I should send a sample of the fluids out for testing - or if that is a waste of time since I need to have everything stripped down to bare metal parts and will be replacing a bunch of stuff anyway.
Next time I get on site I should be able to get the torque converter and flywheel off so I can get the engine on a stand and start stripping it down.