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Hello, I have a restored '64, modified with a 455 +.040, tri-power, 4-speed. Do I need to be concerned about the fuel sitting in the front & rear carbs' float bowls, which don't usually do anything except when I blow her out from time to time? I am lucky to have a gas station nearby where I can buy no-ethanol premium gas, so I don't worry about ethanol issues. Still, though, gas gets stale, right?

2nd question: My mech advised against synthetic oil, which I have used exclusively in all the cars I've owned for 35 years. He recommends high performance conventional oil. Any thoughts?

Thanks for any thoughts/advice.
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I've never had a problem after mine has been sitting for awhile. The gas probably evaporates out of the bowls over time, especially with ethanol.
 

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The non-ethanol gas will last much longer. If you don't run the car much, add something like Sta-Bil to the gas. I have read this will preserve non-ethanol gas up to 1 year. I suspect your car does not sit that long not used, but that gives you an idea. I use StaBil in my cars. You can get it at Walmart or most auto stores.

Synthetic oils tend to be more slippery from what I have read. They can run-off/out of bearings if setting for long periods and when you start the engine back up, can cause additional wear. Fact or fiction, I can't prove it, just read it. Have also read that synthetic oils can damage older seals. Again, who knows. Oil choice is essentially a preference. I have read that once the engine is broken in and a few miles on it, then you can use a synthetic. I still prefer a conventional oil as that was factory and my engines are built to factory specs, but my choice. Many discussions and recommendations posted here on the forums, so it boils down to personal choice.
 

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Agree with Jim on all points, My engine builder said 10 w30 with zinc is all I need.I run synthetic in the f150 and passat
 

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I've also had someone I trust recommend using "Dino(saur) oil" in these engines, so that's what I run in my '69. (461 stroker, honest 11-second car at the track).

Bear
 

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You can use synthetic oil in an older car. However the synthetic oils are better at clearing sludge out of an engine. Sludge in certain places that the original manufacture was counting on being there to help better seal the engine. '

This is why some car leak after going to a synthetic.

Do not use synthetic's in a car that sits for a long time, use conventional oil with an additive like slick 50 or Duralube.

When I was in high school I luckily put slick 50 into a 1989 Ford Mustang and drove it for a while. Well I did not bother to check the oil for a while and drove half way to San Diego from San Francisco and the thing was low 3 quarts of oil. I pulled into a Safeway to get food and this random guy says "your low on oil, I can hear your lifters and or a rod knocking" So I run to a Kragen put a quart in. It doesn't even register, put another quart in. I get little on the very bottom of the dip stick. run back in and get a third quart and I am in the cross hatch now. Drove the car another 50k miles and it never burned or leaked oil. Slick 50 saved me.

I put it in all my cars every 2 oil changes. My Lexus has 320K miles. And I drive like a jerk.


Someone mentioned Stabilize. I use that as well on engines and motors I dont start for long periods of times. I also try to store them with as little fuel as possible.
 

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Agree with Jim on all points, My engine builder said 10 w30 with zinc is all I need.I run synthetic in the f150 and passat
This is important. I am a huge believer in synthetic oils. They do the modern oil job better. But, we're not looking for that here. The big issue is this^^^. IF, you have a flat tappet cam. Got a roller cam in there? Go for the synthetic. Flat tappet, you need an oil that was designed to protect it.
 

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For further reading on the subject of oil for older flat tappet cars refer to the latest issue of the RockAuto newsletter (no I dont work for them, I just get parts there) According to the article, modern oils are made so as to not clog the cat converter. Previously there was only valvoline raciing oil or diesel 15-40 with proper amount of additive. Now because of the many hi tec diesels in cars you can buy a 10-30 diesel oil with the proper amount of stuff for flat tappet cars. Oil classifications are explained in the article
 

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For further reading on the subject of oil for older flat tappet cars refer to the latest issue of the RockAuto newsletter (no I dont work for them, I just get parts there) According to the article, modern oils are made so as to not clog the cat converter. Previously there was only valvoline raciing oil or diesel 15-40 with proper amount of additive. Now because of the many hi tec diesels in cars you can buy a 10-30 diesel oil with the proper amount of stuff for flat tappet cars. Oil classifications are explained in the article
You need to google the RockAuto May, early edition to see the article about diesel oil & flat tappets
 

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Try that stabil Marine 360, I put it in it has a vapor part and you can really tell. It helps to stabilize fuel and the vapors are supposed to help knock down the condensation in tank lines etc. Now you know Marine environments are very damp, so has to be strong.

once mixed in with your fuel will help stabilize it and slow evaporation even in fuel bowls. Not eliminate it totally but better. Use that and drive it more!
 

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PS beg I use Amsoil ZROD motor oil,..the Zinc in it for the flat rapper cam, but it is synthetic.

I told this story on here once before, but I had occasion years ago at a special dinner to be seated across from six Exxon/Mobil Engineers who worked at the refinery.

I told them I was a hot Rodger and about my Pontiac. And I said now no corporate talk here, but just for my knowledge I want to ask you guys what kind of motor oil you run in your personal cars.

I went down the line, they said; Mobil 1, Mobil 1; Mobil 1; Mobil 1; Mobil 1 and then the last guy said Mobil 1. Now they did not get free oil at the refinery it only left there in tanker trucks or pipelines.

So I thought well, pretty interesting.......Like PJ said it is a personal choice really. But Amsoil a synthetic with ZInc for hot rods......ZROD....was made for our cars.

I think it is slicker and leaves less deposits.
 

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PS beg I use Amsoil ZROD motor oil,..the Zinc in it for the flat rapper cam, but it is synthetic.

I told this story on here once before, but I had occasion years ago at a special dinner to be seated across from six Exxon/Mobil Engineers who worked at the refinery.

I told them I was a hot Rodger and about my Pontiac. And I said now no corporate talk here, but just for my knowledge I want to ask you guys what kind of motor oil you run in your personal cars.

I went down the line, they said; Mobil 1, Mobil 1; Mobil 1; Mobil 1; Mobil 1 and then the last guy said Mobil 1. Now they did not get free oil at the refinery it only left there in tanker trucks or pipelines.

So I thought well, pretty interesting.......Like PJ said it is a personal choice really. But Amsoil a synthetic with ZInc for hot rods......ZROD....was made for our cars.

I think it is slicker and leaves less deposits.
A giant +1 on the Amsoil.
 
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