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When you say you want to make it a "driver" but in the same post say it's getting a frame off...well those 2 do not always mesh so well.
Of course a frame off resto is the dream, but when it's done, now it's out on the open road. Rocks, birds, shopping carts, "Life" is out there and it's taken aim at your pristine goat.
Now, I'm not you and I know folks where the cost of a frame off is equivalent of getting the car waxed so it's no issue. But, you speak of budget, like you're me :)
Just keep in mind, if it's a really clean car, maybe a half priced frame-on resto might be what you want if it's really going to be driven a lot. Just throwing my .02 out there.
One of the things that attracted me to my '66 was that it looked and drove real nice, but was far from perfect. I like to drive it, so the other day when the guy in front of me kicked up a 6-pack rack and it bounced off my grill, I didn't have heart failure :)
 

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It's a frame off because the current frame is totally rusted out. I am literally lifting the car off the frame. Replacing everything rubber. I will not be showing up at car shows unless it's driven there, and even then most likely a spectator. I just got a "New" 1965 frame back from getting Powder Coated.I have the body unbolted. Hopefully lifting it off around the 22-23 July. I'll try n do a short video of the lift off.
 

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It's a frame off because the current frame is totally rusted out. I am literally lifting the car off the frame. Replacing everything rubber. I will not be showing up at car shows unless it's driven there, and even then most likely a spectator. I just got a "New" 1965 frame back from getting Powder Coated.I have the body unbolted. Hopefully lifting it off around the 22-23 July. I'll try n do a short video of the lift off.
Well that would make the difference :) May the automotive gods smile upon your project!
Looking forward to some progress report/pics.
 

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Thanks Jim always learning when you write. So when I say stock "looking" I don't wan't KRE heads slapping you in the face. I am looking for period correct with drivability. So don't judge to harshly at my plan. I am going with the Sniper EFI, but I figure it's gonna be tucked under the air cleaner. I am planing using a reproduction 4bbl ram air pan set up from a 67. I'm gonna try manual 4 wheel disc with stock 15 inch RallyII. Yes the 4.25 stroke. Roller cam and rockers. Butlers 8 bolt hi flow Flowkooler. With their performance oil pump. Sooooo stockish? Sorta. My concern was pre 67 4bbl intake would undo my head porting. I did ask butler if they would port my 65 intake and they said yes. Not sure if that would be good enough or if i'm wasting time and $ doing so.
OK, understood. Considering what you are going with, let's call it "resto-mod." The important thing in my book is Pontiac power for a Pontiac car. (y)

I prefer cast iron block and cast iron heads as to me it is more period correct and a little bit of a personal challenge to see what you can get out of it with stock cast iron parts. Yep, the aluminum heads have their place once you get to a certain power level, but it ups the build cost and then you have to start looking at drivetrain upgrades and the price goes higher.

The EFI is the good way to go over a carb with the problems you can encounter with heat soak and hard starts and "waking up" the carb if you park it for the winter season. People will not really notice it as you say, the '67 RA pan will dress it up and look stock, yet be well hidden.

Manual 4-wheel discs are a good way to go. Had one of our members who went that route with his big engine/lack of vacuum for power brakes and said no issues whatsoever stopping the car. Just make sure the discs and the caliper attachments are not too oversized and interfere with the 15" rim size. I assume you have a set-up picked out.

Roller cam and rockers will more than compensate for any air flow needs, or lack of it. A roller can hold the valves open longer and know Butler will suggest exactly what you need. For me, the down side is cost, but then again, I like the sound of a solid flat tappet which is what I am using.

As far as intakes, does it matter in using a stock '65 cast intake and spend money on porting, or go 1968 and up Q-jet cast iron - which would be a better choice. Who would really know the difference? Most of it will be hidden by the RA pan. Port match the heads/intake to the intake gasket you use. Clean up some of the casting differences. I have pics of the '65 & '68 intakes. You can see the differences, even in the runners/size. With the other mods, I don't think using the better '68 intake will be much of a stretch and save you some $porting money and provide better results. The aluminum P4B is modelled after the factory intake, but in aluminum. This would be easier to port, lighter, and with a carb spacer, may work fairly good. Paint it engine color. But, I would go 1968-70 Q-jet. 1967 has the heat provision directly under the carb gasket - easy to see the heat channel. Stay away from this one.

I went with Butler's blueprinted 60 PSI oil pump. Good choice. Get a hardened oil pump drive. You can go inexpensive which is fine, or a little more top end with Nightmare Performance's oil pump shaft. I went with it myself. One member had a slight clearance issue that was easily solved with some light grinding, so you want to check for this. Standard sleeved & hardened oil pump driveshaft

Get a later factory pan with the factory oil baffle. This will help with oil control.

On your frame, I would add the upper/lower control arm braces if you do not already have them. You can go a factory style or aftermarket. I went with UMI as they included the bolts/nuts and they are adjustable to fit as needed. They also have a slight bend to clear floor pans without modifications. This will help stiffen the chassis with the higher HP and the 4-speed set-up.

The 10-bolt could be a weak spot, but if you keep stock sized tires and don't go too wide with sticky rubber that grips well, it should live. Hard power shifts........well maybe not. LOL

1965 Pontiac 389 Intake.jpg
1968 Pontiac 400 Intake.jpg
 

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I've always been a fan of the odd (Not so common colors) and as indicated a buyer could pretty much pay to have there new Pontiac just about any color.
I have a friend who bought his '65 new and didn't like any of Pontiacs offerings, so he paid extra to have it painted in a Chevrolet color.
Now a 1967 GTO in Iris Mist is not too common, to say the least. :cool:

What an awesome looking car! Wish the 65 came with a hood tach!
 

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If you can't do any of the work yourself you should have a budget of 50k for a nice driver restoration if it is a frame off. A concours quality restoration would run in the 6 figures. Just be prepared.
 

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I've always been a fan of the odd (Not so common colors) and as indicated a buyer could pretty much pay to have there new Pontiac just about any color.
I have a friend who bought his '65 new and didn't like any of Pontiacs offerings, so he paid extra to have it painted in a Chevrolet color.
Now a 1967 GTO in Iris Mist is not too common, to say the least. :cool:

Man, I keep going back and looking at this. That color is incredible. I want it :)
 

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Discussion Starter #29
New video by Robert Lewis

THis is the link of me removing the frame from my 65 convertible. Solo. Not sure I have seen anyone do it this way but it worked . Any constructive criticism is welcome. It's in time lapse so freeze anything you want to see. I am installing wheels on the wood frame tomorrow to roll it outside and pressure wash firewall and underside. It will add about 6" to the car dolly height.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
GTO Frame out.jpg
Previous is a picture of the powder coated frame. Here is the frame being slid out and the car resting on it's temporary home. Removing the rear end allowed the frame to drop enough to slide it out without issues. I was replacing my flag pole
today so the flag is rolled up instead of folded. It went right back out after this photo.
 

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XceedVne I love the pictures. It got me thinking about doing a full restoration at my farm. My big hang up has been none of my buildings would really work for installing a lift. I guess I dont have that excuse any more. Thanks!
 

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Thanks it was a bit of a challenge to figure out how to do it all with one person. Would have been easier with a hardtop.
 

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I used 4 x 4's set up on jack stands. Used a floor jack to get each side above the frame rail, blocking each side up at a time. Once I had each side blocked up, then I went a little higher to get the 4 x 4 slid under the rocker panels and on top of the frame. Then got my lengthwise 4 x 4's under each pair of 4 x 4's and secured both using L-brackets & screws to hold then together. Then I lifted each side using my floor jack and put the jack stands under the wood frame - but only lift each side a couple notches on the jack stands so the body would not be at too great of an angle and slide sideways. So took my time going up each side very carefully. Got the body lifted high enough to clear the tires and rolled it out from underneath. Made it easy to strip the frame, blast, add/weld a few areas I wanted to brace better, POR-15, paint, and then re-install all new suspension pieces, rear axle assembly, brakes, etc..

More ways than one to do this, but you have to do it safely and use a little thought.

dscn4042.jpg
 

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Yeah with the convertible I wanted to support the length of the rockers. That was my #1 concern behind safety. 4x4s won't sit flat on rockers. So I came up with jacking up car on frame then lowering the body onto the boxed 2x4's.
You must remove rearend to lower frame enough to clear body. Then just roll it out on front wheels.
 
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